tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-303954990128702162024-03-13T12:10:48.312-07:00Gunnar's CaminoGunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-67272274881153612112009-03-19T19:45:00.000-07:002009-03-19T19:45:49.484-07:00gunnar's caminoGunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-7691065657666799952008-09-20T21:54:00.000-07:002008-09-25T22:38:52.469-07:00Week 10 and 11 Returning to Denmark and school visitsI am very much aware that this blog will be my last chapter in what has been a great adventure for me. Since Richard introduced me to the blog as a way of writing a diary and enabling me to share it with family and friends. I have really enjoyed this almost daily ritual of sitting in front of a computer and reflecting on the day's happenings. I have been in countless internet cafes and used I don't know how many Euros in order to keep the connection open. I know I will miss this opportunity to sit quietly and reflect on the 'big picture' of the day.<br /><br /><div><div>We had a pleasant flight back to Denmark - and this time would be the first time that neither my mum or dad were there to greet us on arrival. Laine and I didn't speak much about it, but I was very much aware that it was a time with many memories surfacing to a new reality. The last time we had been in Denmark together was in 2002, when mum celebrated her 90th birthday, and for that special occasion, we had brought Steen, Karina and Mikaila with us. </div><div><br />On arrival, Josep and Laraine took a taxi while Birgith and I waited for Lisa, who very kindly had offered to meet us in the airport. It didn't take long before we all were gathered in Valby, surrounded by t<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqDOTq7_I/AAAAAAAAARs/BXrkrHVsKH8/s1600-h/SL371979.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248639756848001010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqDOTq7_I/AAAAAAAAARs/BXrkrHVsKH8/s200/SL371979.JPG" border="0" /></a>he great hospitality and love Birgith and Josep always provide. We had a lovely cup of coffee and a slices of six/kernel bread with wonderful Danish cheese - a moment Laine had been thinking about ever since we started to plan this trip. I must admit it is delicious! However we spent the day relaxing and getting ourselves into the 'Danish drive' and poor Joseph had to go to work at Hotel Opera at 11pm until the next morning at 7.00 am. I think we all felt sorry for him. He arrived home the next morning and yes - the night had been hard and long and he had found the going really tough. So he went straight upstairs and into bed, whilst the rest of all quietly meandered down to the kitchen to the smell of coffee, fresh bread, marmalade, cheese, and various cold meats such as ham and salami. That's just the daily breakfast, so if you ever wonder why we put on weight whilst in Denmark, wonder no more.<br /></div><div>One of the first things we both wanted to do was to go to the cemetery and visit the grave of mum and dad. (Dad's urn had been moved to the Nielsen Family Grave (mum's family) since our last visit and before mum's passing). Even though it has been many years since last visiting this grave, I was pretty sure I could find it, and off we went. We bought some lovely flowers and walked down a small lane to the grave and just stood there, allowing the loss, the pain and the memories to just be and maybe realising for the first time for me what the loss of one's parents really means. We walked slowly away and found a bench near a small lake near the grave and just sat there collecting our thoughts and I suppose ourselves. It is not very often I feel or even think about that I live 20,000 kilometers from my family in Denmark - but I must admit when family members or friends die, I can feel very isolated and a million miles from home, not really able to become part of the process of dying or the grief associated with the loss. Hence this visit was very important for both Laraine and me and as always she is my support and my rock.<br /></div><br /><div>Wednesday, we were of to visit our very good friends and one of my old colleagues from my teaching days in Denmark, Verner and and his wife, Zanne. Laine and Zanne have a very good relationship and even though they only see each other every few years, thier friendship is very strong. They were actually in Australia a couple of years ago and love to visit Oz. Visiting them is always high on the agenda whenever we are in Denmark and something we both real look forward to. They live north from Copenhagen, close to a wonderful forest and lake with a garden to die for. Verner's love is his hot-house, where he grows his tomatoes, grapes and many cuttings for the garden, while Zanne's <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqDXZipjI/AAAAAAAAAR0/-KONmrgvjfA/s1600-h/SL372004.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248639759288542770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqDXZipjI/AAAAAAAAAR0/-KONmrgvjfA/s200/SL372004.JPG" border="0" /></a>domain is the veggie patch, which is surrounded with wonderful flowering herbs, creating interest as well as beauty. Even though the day was a bit cool and cloudy and the rain never far away, they took us along Strandvejen which isthe coast road leading from Copenhagen to Helsingor (Kronborg and Hamlet) along the houses of the rich and famous,with a wonderful view across the Oresound to Sweden. We were treated to a lunch at a restaurant called Hammermill - which used to be a factory making the gunbarrels, used in many previous wars. It was quaint little place hidden in the woods with the old and now dis-used waterwheels which use to drive the bellows for the smith's fire. Enough of that bit of history - the important part was that Verner got us some draft beer which we enjoyed with a few pieces of rye bread with delicious pickeled herrings - more Danish you will never find. As we left, I all of a sudden saw this black snake and wondered why someone would have left a plastic snake there. However the little bugger all of a sudden began to move and Laraine nearly had a fit. There are only two kinds of snakes in Denmark and this likely was the non-poisonous one - clearly recognizable by two bright yellow marks on its neck. However it was quite a moment for both of us. There are very few Danes who will ever experience this - weren't we lucky? On the way home we went to Fredensborg Castle and saw Prince Frederik and Princess Mary's residence, which is not in the castle proper, but a building adjacent to it. Even though the building was guarded by the Royal Guards,we knew the couple were not in residence as the Danish flag (Dannebrog) wasn't flying. (I believe Mary in fact was in Tasmania, follwing her visit to the Olympic Games in China). When I told people in Denmark that the tabloids in Australia often gave Mary a hard time, no one could understand why as everyone here seems to both like and respect her. We returned home and Zanne then cooked us a lovely evening meal - marinated salmon with red peppers followed by a delicious calf casserole with fresh vegetables. A really love meal which was enjoyed by all.<br /></div><br /><div>The folowing evening Birgith and Joseph had bought tickets for everyone to see the musical 'Chicago' - an evening we all really enjoyed. At home it is one of the cds we often play - especially when Karina is visiting and we all perform various parts (my part is always Mr. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqEAk4LRI/AAAAAAAAAR8/6WlgeJ18xTE/s1600-h/SL372043.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248639770341944594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqEAk4LRI/AAAAAAAAAR8/6WlgeJ18xTE/s200/SL372043.JPG" border="0" /></a>Cellophane - maybe because there are not too many high notes and dance steps). However knowing the words to the songs definitely helped Laraine to follow the Danish lyrics and we were most impressed by the Danish lead singers and dancers. At the interval I did the right thing and went to the bar and ordered a couple beers for Joseph and I and a couple of glasses of champagne for the girls. I was informed that they didn't sell champagne in glasses but I could buy a half bottle, to which I said yes. When the bill came, I almost had a fit (of course the man of the world I am, didn't show it) as the champagne was 350 kroner (almost 90 Aus dollars). I had forgotten that champagne in Europe is French champagne and not the Seaview kind - such is life in the fast lane. Because it was the interval break, Laine didn't have time to finish hers and left at least half a glass on the bar. However, we all had a great evening and thoroughly enjoyed the show.<br /></div><br /><div>As you can gather while in Denmark we never stop to catch our breath and the next day was <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqEvFPG3I/AAAAAAAAASE/l2E3NMJI3qk/s1600-h/SL372055.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248639782825696114" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqEvFPG3I/AAAAAAAAASE/l2E3NMJI3qk/s200/SL372055.JPG" border="0" /></a>Lisa's turn (my eldest niece), who recently had moved into a new, beautiful apartment. Lisa knowing my handyman skills (don't laugh Bruno) presented me with a huge hammer drill and asked me if I could hang a few pictures around the place. Believe it or not I managed to use this huge drill and only make some small holes and everyone was happy - especially me, as my reputation as a handyman had remained intact - at least in Denmark. I won't tell you what we had for dinner, as Laraine just informed me, that writing that is sooooooo Danish. So you just have to guess! (Atlantic Salmon - don't tell anybody). After dinner, we watched Denmarks version of Dancing with the Stars and one of the contestants was the Prime Minister's wife, Anna-Metta Rasmussen).<br /></div><div>Saturday I really had looked forward to as I was going to be together with all my old classmates as we celebrated our 45th anniversary since leaving school in 1963. My classmates have met every single year since then (and even met when I have been in Denmark) and it is quite a special group of friends. We all met at my old school for coffee and breakfast, followed by a walk in the old neighbourhood, which looked so small compared to our childhood memory - the street where <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqE_NOv2I/AAAAAAAAASM/otX39mjzbBc/s1600-h/SL372084.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248639787154194274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbqE_NOv2I/AAAAAAAAASM/otX39mjzbBc/s200/SL372084.JPG" border="0" /></a>I grew up, the park we all played in, the local pubs where some of the boys sometimes had to fetch their dads when they forgot the time of the day (or night) - and it seems that pubs survive as they all are still there. We then did something very Danish - (I know everyone in Australia will find this absurb) we visited the local cemetery and took a tour finding all the old famous graves - H.C.Andersen, Soren Kirkegaard, Niels Bohr and many more. Because we grew up in Norrebro - one of the poorest parts of Copenhagen, all living in small flats with no hot water, no bathrooms and only a small concrete backyard - open spaces became very important for all of us and yes - the cemetery became an escape for all of us - hence the visit. I don't want you to think that I am a poor morbid soul, but Denmark is probably the country in the world where cemetries are parks with wonderful lakes, flora and lawns and very different to other countries where they can be places which are not well looked after and closed in. We then went back to the school for more coffee and then it was playtime (can you believe you are reading this?) - we all ventured to the school year and played all our old childhood games (it reminded me of a museum which had become alive). Imagine twenty 62 year old women and men playing hopscotch and attempting the good old hula-hula ring - not a pretty sight but lots of fun. We ended the evening in a Chinese restaurant and everyone was looking forward to meeting number 46 on the last Saturday in January 2009.<br /></div><br /><div>The eating feast continued on the Sunday, as we were going to visit two of my cousins, Bent (the oldest in the family now) and his wife Annelise and Lya and her husband Jorn. When only catching up with family and friends every so often, these visits become very important and the sharing of <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxccfsu8I/AAAAAAAAASU/C2V0FeqmLFQ/s1600-h/SL372129.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248647886734670786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxccfsu8I/AAAAAAAAASU/C2V0FeqmLFQ/s200/SL372129.JPG" border="0" /></a>family stories like - do you remember... - a great feature of these occasions. I found that I hear new stories and anecdotes at every such visit. Lya has made some important inroads into our family history and it was really interesting to speak about her findings, which go back to 1705. Annelise and Bent put on 'det store kolde bord' which definitely is a Danish invention, consisting of marinated herrings with an ice cold akvavit or snaps, followed by a number of small warm tidbits, such as pork medalions, roasted loin of pork or Danish meatballs (Frikadeller), followed again by cold cuts of meats, cheese and fruit. Not bad and definitely always an occasion to be remembered.<br /></div><br /><div>Week two all of a sudden appeared and may I say, far too quickly for my likeing. However I had made arragements with the catholic schools I was going to visit during my time in Denmark and the first was on this Monday afternnoon. and the other on Wednesday. Rygaards Skole has both a Danish as well as an International department and is one of the oldest Catholic as well as <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxc5lAdiI/AAAAAAAAASc/GZmvbEUF7l8/s1600-h/SL372142.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248647894541563426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxc5lAdiI/AAAAAAAAASc/GZmvbEUF7l8/s200/SL372142.JPG" border="0" /></a>largest school in Denmark, whith an overall school population of almost 800 pupils. The other Catholic school I had arranged to visit was Sankt Knud Lavard school - a small Catholic school near Lyngby, with a school, population of just 140 pupils. I have decided to write about these visits in a separate chapter of this blog, as I intend to submit my findings and reflections as part of a report to the Catholic Education Office in Melbourne. However, I can say that despite beeing 20,000 kilometers apart, it is quite interesting that most of the issues we face, whether the schools are in Denmark or in Australia, are quite similar, even though I feel Australian schools generally have come much further in regard to the paedagogy we use in our classrooms. I was welcomed warmly by the two Principals, Charles Dalton and Christi Bonde, who both spent many hours with me, showing me around the schools and discussing a great variety of issues associated with education and readily sharing and listening to each other. It was a great priviledge to vist the schools and be part of their day for just a little while.</div><br /><div>Wednesday night was a wonderful time spent with my cousin John and his wife, Judith. They <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNdbjLegXVI/AAAAAAAAATs/BJQcJplS6Ps/s1600-h/SL372211.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248764550657891666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNdbjLegXVI/AAAAAAAAATs/BJQcJplS6Ps/s200/SL372211.JPG" border="0" /></a>had just returned from a trip through France and Spain on their BMW "supa dupa" motor bike. We were so glad to be able to catch up with them and Laine cooked a wonderful Lasagna and once again, Josep provided us with some wonderful wine. Every time you have a meal with family or friends in Denmark, it is a wonderful occasion and Birgith once again presented a beautifully prepared table which set the scene for fine wining and dining. We talked, looked at photos and just enjoyed each other's company. Hopefully, Judy and John will visit us when they can and see the wonders of Australia.</div><br /><div>The end of our vist came around far too soon and Thursday evening the immediate family came around for dinner to enjoy each others company and say our goodbyes - never an easy thing to do, but one we have all learned to cope with over the years. The pain of saying goodbye is far outweighed by the wonderful joy of seeing each other and sharing so many wonderful moments in each others company. We are truly blessed and I know Laraine looks upon her Danish family as her own, with all the love and affection any person can have. Birgith, Josep, Lisa, Angelina, Kenneth, Emilie and Helene we love you all - thank you.</div><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxeGqQgkI/AAAAAAAAAS0/_Ucok4VIOcA/s1600-h/SL372255.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248647915233116738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxeGqQgkI/AAAAAAAAAS0/_Ucok4VIOcA/s200/SL372255.JPG" border="0" /></a>We finished off on the Friday with yet another great lunch with a few 'snaps' and were then ready for the long flight home to Australia. Ready is maybe not the right word, for my visit to Denmark and my family has this time been very short and emotionally I could have used more time. However, with my wonderful time in Spain (three months away from home) I am really looking forward to seeing my kids back home - Steen, Lauren, Ally and Dana, Karina and Mikaila and even little Pusscat. We said our goodbyes at the airport which we find is best if we are just dropped off and the family go back home and we go through the international flight doors. Staying too long is not the best way to do it. We are so lucky to be a blessed family who are aware that part of us is in Denmark and part of us is in Melbourne - that is just the way it is.<br /></div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxdm0YfSI/AAAAAAAAASs/k-NZ_Ir0hVM/s1600-h/SL372266.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248647906685648162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNbxdm0YfSI/AAAAAAAAASs/k-NZ_Ir0hVM/s200/SL372266.JPG" border="0" /></a>The flight went fairly well, unfortunately, the flight was delayed in Copenhagen and so the first leg to Zurich - meant running to catch the next flight to Hong Kong leaving just 25 minutes after arrival - There was a small hiccup when Laine hurried on ahead of me and jumped aboard the underground train which takes you from one part of the airport to the other and the doors closed before I could get on or she could get off. However, I caught the next train and Laine was waiting for me and so we made it in time. And guess who were sitting on the plane - Anne and Grant, who were on the way home from Rome after their great holiday. Getting this 12 hour leg under our belt before <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNdbi1b7VBI/AAAAAAAAATk/VLHyZJFKGhQ/s1600-h/SL372243.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248764544741495826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SNdbi1b7VBI/AAAAAAAAATk/VLHyZJFKGhQ/s200/SL372243.JPG" border="0" /></a>leaving Hong Kong bound for Melbourne, arriving 6.15 am in the morning, tired but feeling OK after the long 26 hours which we had been under way. We were greeted in the airport by Karina, Mikaila and Dana and how lovely it was to see them again and give them a great big hug. The girls had prepared a wonderful breakfast for us and even made a sign on the balcony saying "Welcome Home Nanna and Grandpa". A phonecall to Steen later in the day finished off a great welcome and I am looking forward seeing him, Lauren and Ally later in the week. So, ended the most incredible three months of my life. It was a wonderful experience, but home is good.</div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-8535582322721993232008-09-08T04:29:00.000-07:002008-09-17T15:02:22.271-07:00Week 8 and 9 - Our trip through SpainHi to everyone who has followed Gunnar on his wonderful Camino. He has asked me to help with sharing the next part of his journey. Even through he has taken us through so many fantastic experiences, sharing with us all of the "Camino moments"; the scenery; the people that he will remember for the rest of his life; the trouble he had with his knees, encompassing pain that is so very personal and cannot be described in full and, of course, having to be faced so many times with the ugly octopus as the only thing on the menu. I believe that none of us can really fully understand just what such a spiritual, physical and psychological journey he has <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9aYqotK5I/AAAAAAAAARU/Ox5B23RJGqs/s1600-h/SL371352.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246511470718299026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9aYqotK5I/AAAAAAAAARU/Ox5B23RJGqs/s200/SL371352.JPG" border="0" /></a>travelled and what it means to those very brave and special people who complete the Way of St James. The nearest I was privileged to experience was the day after I arrived in Santiago de Compestella and Gunnar took me to the cathedral where all pilgrams( sorry, I mean peregrinos) finish their journey. Those of us who live in Australia and who have not yet travelled to Europe, know very little that dates back over 250 years, however, this town of Santiago is dated back to 800 AD and is full of squares with the most wonderful character and filled with people from all over the world who are all in awe of the splendour of the simple tiny streets and the cafes and the memories of what we have been taught in our history classes - it really is like what we learned about the middle ages - nothing has changed.<br /><div><div><div><br /><div>We arrived at the Cathedral at about 11.30 am and it was the most magnificent building. But the building is really a dead thing compared to what I saw as peregrinos came through the little street that led them to the end of their incredible journey. As I sat on a step, holding Gunnar's hand and listening to a three piece ensemble (excellent musicians - a flute, a guitar and would you believe - a mandolin?) playing Ave Maria and other emotive songs, I was totally over-awed as I watched couples, men, women, groups - all embracing each other as if to say "Praise God, we made it". Even though I did not go on the Camino, I had no doubt in recognising what this special and unique group of people had and in doing so had experienced something that cannot be described in any form of spoken or written word. I could not hold back my tears as I was aware that Gunnar had not only completed his dream of the Camino, but had done so under such difficult conditions where he had to 'crawl' from one place to another because of the intense pain his knees were causing. I don't think he will mind me sharing with you that if he had lived in Europe, he would probably have given up and gone home and tried again in six months time, but living in Australia, it was just not possible to do that. After sitting for an hour or so watching people arrive, we then went into the Cathedral for the Mass. This was someting quite special and the photo will tell you something about how beautiful it is. For those who are near and dear to me let me confide in you that I watched a priest in an open confessional give absolution to about 100 individual people - all totally on show and I commented to Gunnar that I thought this was a farce. However, having taken communion, I decided I wanted some absolution as well and went to to the confessional. Fortunately, the priest did not understand English and so I rattled off 35 years of sins. I was very surprised when he handed me a choice of cards in all languages and he decided that the one that said 3 Hail Mary's was the one for me. If I had been on the othe side of the confessional, it would have been at least 4, but the most important thing for me was that I had received the Sacrament in the mode that it was intended and I am very glad that I chose to do so. It meant a lot to me. As Gunnar has already told you, the Cathedral was packed to the limit and this happens every day. I didn't know much about the Apostle, St James, but he has certainly added to the lives of many people from all over the world.</div><br /><div>Now, I will tell you a little of our journey through Spain. I had no idea of the size of this wonderful country. Our friend and travel agent, Ines had booked a very comfortable hotel for th<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9aZNyd20I/AAAAAAAAARc/9lHlMu5ONgg/s1600-h/SL371404.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246511480154479426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9aZNyd20I/AAAAAAAAARc/9lHlMu5ONgg/s200/SL371404.JPG" border="0" /></a>e first two nights. It was so good to greet each other at the airport and a hug can say a million words. Fortunately, I had not heard about the airline crash which took 150 lives just 12 hours before I arrived in Madrid. I wondered why the Spannair aircraft I was travelling on was only half full, and was blissfully unaware that I was travelling on the same airline. There he was, wearing his T Shirt saying "I completed the Camino" , as brown as a berry and so glad to see me. We spent two nights in Santiago de Compestalla where we tasted some great, but fattening tapas, some good beer for Gunnar and wine for me. We walked around the old city, up and down ancient streets and looked at the shops and cafes filled with tourists from all over the world. I even ventured out on my own one afternoon to do some window shopping and really enjoyed this opportunity to move around the city by myself. I picked out an Italian reasturant for the evening - but of course couldn't find it again in the evening. We had almost given up and there it was - right in front of my eyes. We ordered some nice mixed salad and a couple of varieties of Italian pasta and enjoyed both the meal and each others company - all while the waiter kept an eye on the Olympic Basketball Semi-final, in which Spain played. Next to us sat another couple, who we sta<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XOnTi9nI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/GUyKuDq8VVs/s1600-h/SL371409.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246507999490668146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XOnTi9nI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/GUyKuDq8VVs/s200/SL371409.JPG" border="0" /></a>rted to 'talk to' - pretty difficult as they were from Seville in the southern part of Spain and spoke and understood very little english. However we all did our best and this process was helped a little by trying a couple of special spanish liquers. Laraine conveyed that she would love to see some flamingo dancing but was told that we were in the wrong end of Spain to see this, as it was a southern Spanish tradition. However, she told us (I am not sure how) that she knew how to dance flamingo. I begged her to try and up she went and showed us four traditional dances right there on the spot. What a wonderful moment, not a Camino moment, however, but we really enjoyed it. The remainder of this blog is written by "us".</div><br /><div>On the Saturday morning it was time to leave Santiago and Gunnar left to pick to car up from the Europe Car Rental office, next to the station. I think he was a little apprehensive, as he hadn't driven in the right side of the road for almost 35 years. I stood watching for him on the balcony and there he was, coming around the roundabout, without colliding with any of the other cars. We rented a Peugeut 380 - a brand new model just released in Europe and began our long drive east across Spain. We travelled about 600 km on this first day, through Lugo, which I navigated through the very city center (not a smart move) but we found our way out without too much fustration. We continued out journey north and reached the Bay of Biscay at Tapia de Casariego, a wonderful little coastal town, with the ocean gleaming brightly in the sun behind it. We made a short stop in this tourist haven and enjoyed the Saturday market with the many colorful an<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XOV3CfdI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/LR_8oUlIu2M/s1600-h/SL371438.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246507994807696850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XOV3CfdI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/LR_8oUlIu2M/s200/SL371438.JPG" border="0" /></a>d very different stores along the small steets. We continued along the coast and after studying the map we made a decision to make our first stop at a small coastal town called San Vicente de la Barguera, shortly before Santander. San Vicente was a wonderful picturisque town, connected to the main highway by an old Roman bridge taking cars and people across the water inlet, where the daily tide moved the ocean waters in and out to the tune of 5-6 meters a day - something (something we have never expereinced before). It was a real tourist haven and the main street was filled with a number of great reasturants, with delicious seafood on the menu. Our evening finished off with a wonderful firework display, no doubt culminating a fiesta of some kind.</div><br /><div>The next day we continued our journey along the Biscay Bay towards Santander, Bilbao and San Sebastian. Although both of these cities have great sights to visit, we decided not to get involved driving in a city we didn't know and left the cost for Pamplona - the city Gunnar had started his journey almost 8 weeks prior. Along the road Gunnar pointed out many camino signs. We even saw a few walkers along the road, and marlvelled at the distance these pilgrims still have to cover, before they would reach Santiago. As Pamplona came in to view, Gunnar pointed out the Alto del Perdon, the hilltop, he climed on the very first day. It was strage and exciting to be at the place where he had begun his journey. From Pamplona my navigating skills told me to follow the E240, which would take us further westward along the base of the Pyrenees towards the </div><br /><div>Meditteranian. Gunnar had told me that it would be good to travel as far as possible, as he predicted a slow trip trough the mountains and the many winding roads. I really didn't believe that i<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XPEA8teI/AAAAAAAAARE/csNrzi4rCuk/s1600-h/SL371475.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246508007197292002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XPEA8teI/AAAAAAAAARE/csNrzi4rCuk/s200/SL371475.JPG" border="0" /></a>t would too bad, but as we travelled through the Pirynees, we only travelled at about 30kms per hour and often would find a lorry or a caravan before us. It is so steep and just so breathtaking. You can have a laugh at the always placid Gunnar who had me not only navigating through these bloody Alps, but taking photographs out of the window as well. I was so scared that I didn't take one photo. The next I took 80. We have got photos of mountains and mountains, lakes, goats, medieval villages, Spanish cafes, trees, lakes, rivers, you name it - I took it. I even took a photo of Gunnar's ears. If I missed a thing, I was in real trouble - only joking! I wanted to take all of these photos (other than the ears) because it was just incredible. We finally decided to make a stop and found a hotel in Baltana, a small village in the middle of the mountains. Whilst Gunnar rested I went for a walk and stumbled across a mountain stream with a swimming hole, with the clearest water, sparkeling turquoise in the sunshine, I think I have even seen. I hurried back to fetch <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XPXUWjNI/AAAAAAAAARM/g82lzxDkp1o/s1600-h/SL371486.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246508012378950866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XPXUWjNI/AAAAAAAAARM/g82lzxDkp1o/s200/SL371486.JPG" border="0" /></a>Gunnar to show him, but we arrived back just as the sun disappeared behind the mountains, so the beautiful color had was missed. What a pity! But the water was still clear and beautiful, and we kust sat there on a rock with our feet in the water for an hour or so, enjoying this little gem of a place. After eating something akin to 'open sandwishes', which were delicious, we had an early night in preparation for another days difficult driving. However would you believe - 15 minutes after midnight, we both sat up in bed awoken by a tremendous bang. The fireworks from San Viente de la Barguera had followed us and new commenced to launch a barrage of rockets and glowing and spluttering suns into the sky, making even more noise in the middle of the mountains. We couldn't believe that it was really happening - but as usual in this part of the world, the streets were full of children, even at the late hour.</div><br /><div>We started again the next morning after a bite of breakfast and the winding road continued, even worse than the day before. We drove through gullies, so narrow, that it seemd impossible for two cars to pass each other - and with no lines on the road to guide the drivers. I felt decidedly uncomfortable and I know Gunnar was struggling judging the width of the car - not only because it was an unknown car, but also because he had to judge the angles from the left hand side of the vichicle. Being tired, we decided to take the road through France to Perpignan, as this looked less mountainous than other roads. It was incredibly slow and we were exhausted. Eventually, we reach the outskirts of the city, found the motorway and headed toward the Spanish border, just 23 kilometers away. A further 23 kilometers on the Spanish side, we found the turn off to Roses and finally reach our destination of Empuriobravo.</div><br /><div>If any of you have the time, please Google Earth this incredible place in Spain. It is between Figueres and Roses on the North East Coast of Spain. It is actually a marine city where all houses/villas are built on canals with their own moorings. Most of them are owned by rich Spaniards and Germans. Even though we had travelled 1,200 kms without too much trouble, do you think we could find the house where the family were awaiting us. We had at least six mobile phone calls, I don't know how many hissies I threw. As most of you will know, Gunnar doesn't actually throw hissies, but he yells a lot and yes, he yelled a lot, which made me throw even more hissies and I actually "just put my head up in the air and walk away". That always does it, and so he decided to calm down and listen to some common sense like "ring the number of the real estate agent who is Josep's friend. Anyway, enough of that, I went to a taxi driver and asked the address and we eventually found our home for the next week and what a home it was. How wonderful to be with Gunnar's sister, Birgith; her husband, Josep,(who is Spanish) and his niece Lisa and and her younger sister Angelina and her fiance Kenneth and their two beautiful daughters, Emelie (12 1/2 and Helene 9). There is nothing so special as a family and my Danish family are as special to me as my Australian family.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4Ue3r6guI/AAAAAAAAAP0/na0PwHfMk94/s1600-h/SL371842.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246153136509977314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4Ue3r6guI/AAAAAAAAAP0/na0PwHfMk94/s200/SL371842.JPG" border="0" /></a>We shared the most fantastic 6 days together in a wonderful waterfront villa. We talked and talked, we laughed and we shared. We went shopping and a very special night indeed was the night we went for a wonderful meal to celebrate Josep's 70th birthday. Josep treated us to very good Spanish food (no octopus) and of course, good wine. We had a great night. Most of the family walked home along the Mediteranian coast, whilst Birgith, Helena and I went home by taxi. The "kids" went home on Saturday and Birgith, Josep, Gunnar and I stayed for another five days.<br /><br /><div>I had ofte<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XN19_XaI/AAAAAAAAAQs/acnGv_UoAqg/s1600-h/SL371708.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246507986246917538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9XN19_XaI/AAAAAAAAAQs/acnGv_UoAqg/s200/SL371708.JPG" border="0" /></a>n told Josep during previous vists, that one day we would come to Spain, and he would then show us his country. And this second week with them gave him plenty of opportunity just to do that. He took us on a drive to a medieval village called Besalu, with the ruins from a famous early Jewish settlement, now long gone, after an apparent terrible and vicious persecution.(I was never aware that Jewish persecusion had taken place right back to year 1000) We then continued to a wonderful lake called Banyoles, where the olympic rowing had taken place in 1992. It was a very large vulcanic lake and the story goes (as it often does) that no one know sjust how deep it was<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9cKxNzqoI/AAAAAAAAARk/hhWqjxEHGHs/s1600-h/SL371818.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246513430989613698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM9cKxNzqoI/AAAAAAAAARk/hhWqjxEHGHs/s200/SL371818.JPG" border="0" /></a>We also visited Roses where Josep was born - then a small fishing village - now a thriving tourist heaven. From here we caught a boat which took us further north along the coast to Cadacez, the most easterly village in Spain and the place where Salvadore Dali had had his summer residence. It was a wonderful village, with very steep laneways, of course all leading up to the church. The old fishing dwellings had all been transformed into tourist accomodation, but had still kept their original style and looks.<br /><br /><div>Speaking about Salvadore Dali, he came from Figueres, a country town just 15 kilometers inland, <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UeFdkJoI/AAAAAAAAAPc/RhO8Yf7MgTw/s1600-h/SL371751.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246153123028018818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UeFdkJoI/AAAAAAAAAPc/RhO8Yf7MgTw/s200/SL371751.JPG" border="0" /></a>where Josep grew up with his family and where the major Dali exhibition is found. We spent almost three hours in this 'museum' and witnessed the work of a most wonderful artist - no doubt a genious but no doubt also a man with some kind of mental disorder. His work spanned from paintings, sculptures, wall hangings, jewelry, three dimentional collage and much more. I guess some of his most famous pieces are the crucified Christ viewed from above - his melting watches and the paintings with two different images hidden in the same canvas.<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><span></span></span> <div><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UeBahc7I/AAAAAAAAAPk/i__BhySyuag/s1600-h/SL371792.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246153121941517234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UeBahc7I/AAAAAAAAAPk/i__BhySyuag/s200/SL371792.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span><span>We also caught up with some of Birgith and Josep's friends who treated us to a delicious elfresco meal and we then went to a wonderful cabaret of Flamenco dancers and singers and this was really great. I have never seen any troupe try as hard to dance their hearts out as this group did. It was something I have dreamed of for a long time and was carried away by the spirit and the liveliness of these dancers. I will carry the flame of Spain with me forever. </span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><br /></span></div><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cH-QlHGI/AAAAAAAAAQk/9M5vnT6KhgE/s1600-h/SL371876.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246161539230407778" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cH-QlHGI/AAAAAAAAAQk/9M5vnT6KhgE/s200/SL371876.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span><span>We finally had to say goodbye to Empuriabravo and drove to Figueres and from there caught the train to Barcelona to spend our final two days in Spain in this wonderful city, which today (I guess one of the impacts of the Olympic Games in 1992) is one of the places to visit in Europe. And may I say than neither of us were dissapointed. We have never seen so many people and </span></span><span>tourists before in our life - hundreds of thousands it seemed. Walking down the famous Rambla, showcasing a unique and colorful universe of boutique markets, featuring flowers, birds, leather stalls, a wonderfil fruit</span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UfIEEmAI/AAAAAAAAAP8/mjMc4hBMJZQ/s1600-h/SL371857.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246153140906268674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4UfIEEmAI/AAAAAAAAAP8/mjMc4hBMJZQ/s200/SL371857.JPG" border="0" /></a> <em><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><span></span></em></span><span><span>and fish market along side the Opera House. We stopped for a </span></span><span><span>drink and just sat there watching a river of people, from all over the world pass by. It was so facsinating! And street artist - the ones standing still - came in all colors, disguises and sizes and was an never ending topic of amusement and discussion. At the end of the Rambla we found the harbour with a huge statue of Christopher Columbus, pointing towards America - a most beautiful monument, built as part of a world trade exhibition, held in Barcelona in 1886. </span></span></div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830"><em><br /></em></span></span><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cHECwFMI/AAAAAAAAAQU/ly1aNoC3P2g/s1600-h/SL371886.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246161523603150018" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cHECwFMI/AAAAAAAAAQU/ly1aNoC3P2g/s200/SL371886.JPG" border="0" /></a><span><span>From the bus we saw the Olympic Stadium and the Olympic Village, built along the waterfront - a decision which helped change the old tradition, that the further away from the ocean one lived, the higher up in the social order one was -hence today modern and very expensive houses and apartments have been built along the waterfront and the old picture is changing. However driving through the old part of the city, built on the slopes of Collserola massif, one could enjoy and appreciate the many wonderful old homes, all with a magnificent view of Barcelona.<br /></span></span></div><div><span>We decided to do what all tourists do with limited time on their hands - we took a tourist bus around town. In Barcelona there are three different routes, which cross over at certain points, enabling one to change from one route to another. We decided to get off the bus at the famous Temple de la Sagrada Familia - the unfinished church - to admire the unique work and architecture of Antoni Gaudi. The project was commenced in 1882 and Gaudi was the chief architect and project leader to his death in 1926. One had to admit the church is unique and </span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cHDmAJtI/AAAAAAAAAQM/z2A7VAvCwd0/s1600-h/SL371916.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246161523482568402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cHDmAJtI/AAAAAAAAAQM/z2A7VAvCwd0/s200/SL371916.JPG" border="0" /></a><span><span>quite different from any other church building in the world, displaying complex geometrical shapes and the use of various forms of quartz to achieve these unique shapes and forms. Eight of the twelve bell towers have been completed, each with a height of more than 100 meters. The two main facades of the church carry the theme of the Passion and of the Nativity and both are very rich and complex in both form and style - the Nativity being very traditional in its sculpures while the Passion of Christ is ultra modern and full of symbolism. The overarching theme of Gaudi is to symbolise the church as a shelter - hence the columns symbolising trees </span></span><span>and branches and leaves - and the top of the towers, the symbols of the earth and the stars meet. This symbol, said Gaudi, was the first thing sailors would see of Barcelona when arriving<span>.<br /></span></span><em><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"></div></span></span></em><br /><em><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cGub22cI/AAAAAAAAAQE/12SHni0sRfg/s1600-h/SL371973.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246161517802871234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SM4cGub22cI/AAAAAAAAAQE/12SHni0sRfg/s200/SL371973.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /></span></span></em><div><span>Late Saturday evening we went to see a wonderful light and water display, where a number of beautiful fountains performed a 'water ballet ' to accompanying music. This picture tells a little of the story.We really enjoyed the display which was a great way to farewell this wonderful city and our all too brief stay. </span></div><em><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><br /><br /></span></span></em><div><span>The next morning a taxi awaited us at 8am to take us to Barcelona Airport and we arrived safely in Copenhagen 'Kastrup' Airport at 2pm, ready to take on the next part of our journey in Denmark and meet family and friends, some of whom we hadn't seen for almost 10 years.<br /></span><em><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1830"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1855"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></span></div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></em></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></span><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></span></div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-29450755605364105392008-08-18T03:45:00.001-07:002008-09-08T05:43:41.622-07:00Week 7 - Santiago - reaching the destinationSunday morning, everyone, all 800 pilgrims filling this final <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">albergue</span>, were quiet and reflective, as everyone knew that in just an hour, we would be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">reaching</span> the end point of our journey - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">whether</span> it has taken 6 weeks or maybe only 1 week.<br /><br />We decided ( my friends and I) to walk this last part of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Camino</span> together as a group and started this final part of our journey at 8am, so we would have a few hours in Santiago, before the 12 o´clock pilgrims Mass.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ_IBRdmI/AAAAAAAAANk/twocEEE3M64/s1600-h/SL371294.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236227299674781282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ_IBRdmI/AAAAAAAAANk/twocEEE3M64/s200/SL371294.JPG" border="0" /></a>We walked <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">slowly</span>, savouring each step and each in our own thoughts. As the cathedral came into view and we entered through the final Portico <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">de</span> Gloria, we finally <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">arrived</span> in front of the west entrance to the cathedral and the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Plaza</span> do <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Obradoiro</span>, and quietly stood on the zero marker for the pilgrimage, each <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">quietly</span> contemplating our own unique and individual journey to this spot.<br />Here are Raymond and Angela from Scotland as well as Barbara from Bologna.<br /><br />In this pucture we are just to enter the West Plaza of the cathedral, where one finds the ZERO marker for the Camino. No-one really wanted to go through the gate first, as we didn´t want it to come to an end.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ_lNmvyI/AAAAAAAAANs/3ZxgRUScZt4/s1600-h/SL371301.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236227307511136034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ_lNmvyI/AAAAAAAAANs/3ZxgRUScZt4/s200/SL371301.JPG" border="0" /></a>We entered the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">cathedral</span> during the normal <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Sunday</span> Mass and took the opportunity to walk behind the High Alter, ascend the stairs and put our hands on the shoulders of the Apostle James and say a quiet prayer, after which you descend into a crypt to kneel before a casket containing the relics of the great saint and once again <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">pray</span> quietly. It is a very special and reflective moment and one that is very hard to put into words. So much has gone into getting to this moment . So much hardship and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">physical</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">endeavour</span> - so many special moments - so many lessons learned - all trying some how to be <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">encapsulated</span> in such a moment.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ-5VBNxI/AAAAAAAAANc/L1n8QP0WUZs/s1600-h/SL371306.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236227295731070738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ-5VBNxI/AAAAAAAAANc/L1n8QP0WUZs/s200/SL371306.JPG" border="0" /></a>We then went to the Pilgrims Office <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Oficina</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">del</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">Piligrino</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">Casa</span> do Dean, to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">obtain</span> our <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Compostella</span> - a special certificate, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">acknowledging</span> that you have completed the Pilgrimage. We had to wait approx. 45 minutes before it became our turn, but as we left, the waiting period would have been hours and I was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">grateful</span> that we had arrived <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">fairly</span> early, to avoid the huge masses of pilgrims arriving every day.<br /><br />It was then time to find a bed for the night, and as I am going to stay in Santiago for a few nights, I decided to find a hotel room, where I can get settled and be comfortable. I just had time to book in and then hurried back to the cathedral in time for the 12 o´clock pilgrims mass. It was quite an overwhelming <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">experience</span>. Just imagine a church with <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ97IrPvI/AAAAAAAAANM/_1jgg8ZUgDw/s1600-h/SL371347.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236227279036301042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ97IrPvI/AAAAAAAAANM/_1jgg8ZUgDw/s200/SL371347.JPG" border="0" /></a>almost 2000 pilgrims, from all over the world, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">arriving</span> on the particular day and time, sitting or standing in every corner of the church. Talking about an excitement one almost can touch. The Bishop of Santiago, following at least a dozen priests, addressed the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">congregation</span> in no less than 6 languages and the daily list of pilgrims - where they commenced their journey and from where in the world they came, was read out as part of the Mass. I was the only Australian/Danish pilgrim in the Church at this particular Mass, which made me feel pretty special.<br /><br />Just to give you an idea of the amount of pilgrims arriving in <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">Santiago</span> each day - as we left the Mass there would have been at least 500 pilgrims standing outside the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">Church</span>, waiting to enter. It is quite <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">amazing</span> numbers and they arrive each day throughout the year (even though the summer months obviously are the most travelled)<br /><br />Last evening we a<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ-RJYYEI/AAAAAAAAANU/g_yw_xiMSkQ/s1600-h/SL371337.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236227284944838722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKrQ-RJYYEI/AAAAAAAAANU/g_yw_xiMSkQ/s200/SL371337.JPG" border="0" /></a>ll went out and had a meal and a few drinks and also quite a few goodbyes as everyone now commenced their journey back from where they came - a very <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">peculiar</span> feeling and sensation - for many of these people have shared a unique <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">experience</span> for a time in their lives - and now somehow have to return - however always remembered by what they contributed on the journey in sharing their stories, supporting you when it became tough and hence became part of your story and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">experience. </span><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Here Barbara gives Angela a big hug - just wanted to clarify for Bruno that the gray hair doesn´t belong to me!</span><br /><br />I spent the next couple of days in Santiago, enjoying just walking around quietly and to somehow get in touch with all the many impressions this final destination had offered. I enjoyed the comfort of a small hotel room and the knowledge that I didn't need to find a bed for the night (a little comfort goes a long way - especially after almost 6 weeks on the road). I also took this time to find out the details of Laraines arrival - how to get to the airport by the airport bus and yet again find out the bus schedule. I also walked to the hotel, Hespirio Perigrino (organised from Australia) situated about 30 minutes away from where I was staying, orgainising to leave my backpack there on the Thursday morning, before going to the airport to pick up Laraine. I also went to Europe Car Rental to make sure they had a car ready for us for Saturday morning. It was lucky, that I decided to do this, as they informed me that my booking, which I had made from Australia, was completely unknown to them, and as such, would have meant, that no car would have been available for us.<br /><br />Despite thinking that I had run of pilgrim friends, I kept running into people I knew - pilgrims who might have been in Finisterra for a few days before returning to Santiago for a last look. I found my Belgian principal friend sitting quietly outside the cathedral on the Tuesday and we decided to go to the Pilgrims Mass together, to complete our journey together - a very special time and celebration. At this Mass they swung the huge incense burner, which was suspended from the ceiling high above the altar from side to side, almost touching the cathedral roof maybe 80 meters above the congregation - quite a spectacular sight and controlled by no less that 6 priests, all hanging on to ropes - pulling and letting go in unison - quite a spectacle.<br /><br />Wednesday was a glorious day with bright sunshine (the first such day since arriving in Galicia almost 2 weeks ago) and I decided to take to bus to Finisterra to experience this final destination for many pilgrims. The bus ride almost took 3 hours and followed the Atlantic coast for most of the way - past fishing villages, that for centuries had developed the specialised skills needed to havest not only the fish and octopus, but the vast array of shellfish living in these <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEuNVmFdI/AAAAAAAAAPU/gmPpw0VmYgk/s1600-h/SL371364.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5243602533043541458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEuNVmFdI/AAAAAAAAAPU/gmPpw0VmYgk/s200/SL371364.JPG" border="0" /></a>waters and tidal pools. The tide along this coast is quit spectacular with a movement between high and low tide somewhere between 6-8 meters. At low tide the boats are all morooned on the sand like beached whales - but that is not an excuse to rest. Hundreds of woman can be seen on the sand banks, digging for all sorts of shell fish, which no doubt will be on the dinner tables around Spain and Europe that very evening. A German man sitting behind me on the bus, now living in Madrid, was my tour guide on the trip and kept me informed of all sort of interesting facts and figures. Hence Spain like so many other parts of the world is suffering from lack of rain and especially Barcelona is in trouble. He also told me that this wonderful coastline just a few years back ahd been awash with oil, coming from a stricken tanker split in half off the cost and had made everyone unemployed for more than 12 months along the coast, while cleaning the mess up.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEt5eZ7aI/AAAAAAAAAPE/bmgcrfNcwAQ/s1600-h/SL371380.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5243602527711784354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEt5eZ7aI/AAAAAAAAAPE/bmgcrfNcwAQ/s200/SL371380.JPG" border="0" /></a>Finisterra - the end of the earth - was the most westerly point in the known world until Columbus managed to find America - was quite spectacular. To reach the lighthouse one has to endure a 5 kilometer up-hill walk, but I was quite prepared for this last sacrifice, as part of my Camino. I hitched up with an American physicist doing research at Yale University, and as such she became my last perigrino companion on my journey.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEt1GIZJI/AAAAAAAAAPM/-JJOKjFdEnE/s1600-h/SL371386.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5243602526536230034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SMUEt1GIZJI/AAAAAAAAAPM/-JJOKjFdEnE/s200/SL371386.JPG" border="0" /></a> The landscape of this cape or outcrop was spectacular (even for me, used to seeing quite spectacular coastlines along the Australian south and east coast) and I found it a very special place to be - providing a wonderful place just to sit and reflect and come to terms with the finality of this day and this journey.<br />I am sitting at the ZERO marker for the Camino and enjoying the wonderful view and achievement.<br /><br />Watching a little television in the evening after my dinner (Spanish time between 8-10pm) and thinking about meeting Laraine at Santiago Airport the next day, the news flash about the terrible crash in Madrid Airport late in the afternnon, where more than 150 people had died, filled the screen. Terrible news at any time, but especially just hours before your wife is going to arrive in that very airport. I really hoped that she would have no knowledge of this disaster, as it no doubt would unsettle her. I arrived in Madrid Airport on time to pick her up and wasn't suprised to find that her flight had been delayed. At midday everyone observed a minutes silence and it was eerie to stand in an airport, normally filled with the noise of excited travellers, go silent for what seemed a long time. Laraine's flight landed approx. 15 minutes later and it wasn't long before I spotted her coming out from the arrivals lounge - what a special moment after being on the road for almost 7 weeks and only really been in touch via SMN's messages during this time.<br /><br />I had already decided that the best way of giving Laraine some kind of insight into the Camino, was to take her to the cathedral and just watch the pilgrims, as they arrived at this end point of their journey - watch their faces - their tears - their smiles - the pain as some walked these last few steps. I know these faces touch Laraine very deeply and she somehow touched, at least part of this unique journey and expereince. We went to the Pilgrims Mass together and once again I am sure this expereince and opportunity to celebrate and give thanks, helped her to put not only my Camino, but also in many ways her's, into some larger perspective.<br /><br />As I am trying to reflect on my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">Camino</span>, I am not sure how to put it into words. One thing I am sure of is, that it has been a unique <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">experience</span>, that will stay with me for the rest of my life and somehow help shape how I look upon life and the way I live it.<br /><br />I am very grateful to the people in the Catholic Education Office, Melbourne, who <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">believed</span> that this project was a genuine proposal for Enrichment Leave - and I hope no-one will ever doubt the huge effect this journey will have on any individual principal, contemplating this journey . It goes to the very core of who you are as a person - your spiritual life as well as your physical life - and will effect your <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">capacity</span> to perform in your job as principal in a significant way.<br /><br />Also thanks to my wife, Laraine, who always has trusted and supported me on this journey - encouraging and believing in me and giving me the opportunity to grow and discover more deeply who I am as a person. Thanks to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">Steen</span> and Karina and also to Simone - you were all such an important part of this journey and I spent many hours with you individually, as I travelled through the wonderful and ever changing landscape of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">Camino</span>. And to my wonderful grand children, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">Mikaila</span>, Dana and Ally of whom I often spoke and shared their part in my life.<br /><br />And finally thanks for all the messages from family and friends, from the kids and teachers from St. Charles - you were all very much part of this journey and because so many pilgrims at this time of the year were in the teaching profession, you were often a source of conversation.<br /><br />Where to from here? The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">Camino</span> has been completed (I am after all in Santiago, completing this blog) but I am sure my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">Camino</span> has only just started in a number of ways, as I in the coming days, months, years, reflect and work through the many, many special memories , which <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">became</span> part of me on this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">Camino</span> - The Way of St. James.Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-70364011663205445142008-08-10T04:05:00.000-07:002008-08-19T08:02:18.841-07:00Week 6 - Walking from Sarria to Santiago de CompostellaI woke up very excited this morning as I had <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">decided</span> to give the walking <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">another</span> go. My goal for the day was approx. 14 km to a small village called <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Ferrerios</span></span> - which means blacksmiths - maybe the name has a story to tell.<br /><div><div><div><br /><div>It was a wonderful cool morning with plenty of morning mist around - a trait of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Galicia</span></span> - as so much moist air comes directly in from the Atlantic Ocean, and settles in the mountains and hills around the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Camino</span></span> walking track. The mist made the country side wonderfully fresh, with mellow and soft colours all around. The country side here in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Galicia</span></span> is very wooded and the walkers are <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7UhaE5sjI/AAAAAAAAALs/YPpeA6haYd4/s1600-h/SL371133.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232853487451746866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7UhaE5sjI/AAAAAAAAALs/YPpeA6haYd4/s200/SL371133.JPG" border="0" /></a>well protected from the sun as the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Camino</span></span> goes trough woodlands, mainly consisting of oak and chestnut trees, both <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">providing</span> ample shade for the walkers. It <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">didn</span></span>´t take me long to get into a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">rhythm</span> and I was very careful to slow down my pace to about 4 km an hour and also be careful how my feet contacted the ground - softly, softly was the aim of the day. Not only did the physical walking get into a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">rhythm</span> fairly quickly, but so did my internal feeling and thinking processes as well. It is <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">amazing</span> how the physical and the internal <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">spheres</span> seem to follow a common <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">rhythm</span>, which provided a wonderful space for thinking and feeling. As I walked along I all of a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">sudden</span> smelt this wonderful scent and realised it came from a gumtree - a single gumtree amongst the oak trees and it gave out the strongest scent which was <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">unmistaken</span></span>, not only to me, but for the other walkers as well. Gumtrees are getting more common as we walk along towards the coast - but so far it is the first and the only one I have seen so far.<br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Ug9E1zHI/AAAAAAAAALk/5F73bgXYjSY/s1600-h/SL371130.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232853479666863218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Ug9E1zHI/AAAAAAAAALk/5F73bgXYjSY/s200/SL371130.JPG" border="0" /></a>A long time ago when I was in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Najara</span></span>, I spoke about a young actor couple from <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">France</span> / Germany who I spent some wonderful hours with on Plaza <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Españia</span></span>, when I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">couldn</span></span>´t walk. As I walked yesterday I saw a young woman just standing still and taking in the wonderful nature surrounding her, when I realised it was her. Here we go again! How does it happen you meet up with someone after almost three weeks - I just don´t know. We waked together for about an hour or so and spoke about the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Camino</span></span> and our <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">experiences</span> so far. Her <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">boyfriend</span> had had to return to Berlin a couple of weeks back and although they had had a wonderful <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Camino</span></span> together, walking it alone was so very special, she told me. As custom has it, after an hour or so, she <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">farewelled</span> me and walked off a little faster than I, into the distance. However it left me with this feeling of wonderment and joy as to what <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">suprises</span></span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Camino</span></span> might provide me with next.</div><br /><div>However I felt absolutely great as I arrived at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">Ferrerios</span></span> and got a bed for the evening - and with no bad effect from the walk. What great news - I might still be able to walk to Santiago after all!</div><br /><div>As I arrived three wounded soldiers were waiting for a bed as well - amongst them Bent - a D<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">ane</span></span> - 75 years old, who had a heart operation not that long ago and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">Josep</span></span>, a S<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">paniard</span></span>, who had that many blisters on his feet, that I lost count. They had both just started the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">Camino</span></span> a couple of days ago, so the damage seems to happen within the first few days, as the body gets used to the hard work - day in and out.</div><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Uhy6aMWI/AAAAAAAAAL0/3wYYSc8ht64/s1600-h/SL371142.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232853494118625634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Uhy6aMWI/AAAAAAAAAL0/3wYYSc8ht64/s200/SL371142.JPG" border="0" /></a>At this small village, I encountered the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">largest</span> number of flies I ever have seen or experienced. I can <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">assure</span> you that the Australian Salute came in handy. These villages which we travel through - and there are many - are tiny communities consisting of more cows than humans. Hence, one experiences a wonderful country smell when passing though these small communities - cow dung, wet hay, chickens <span style="color:#ffff00;">etc</span> - of course all paradise if you are a fly - which accounts for the multitude of these annoying creatures.</div><br /><div>I also <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">caught</span> up with my two <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">German</span> friends who came out of nowhere, calling out - Grandpa - Grandpa. Good to see them again. They told me that they are making a German Travel Show about the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">Camino</span></span> and that the TV crew <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">catch</span> up with at certain <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">intervals</span> to film <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">and</span> interview them. They asked me if I wanted to walk with them for part of tomorrow, which was very nice of them, as I can´t walk very fast.</div><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Uia7O3fI/AAAAAAAAAL8/qbMDiRrgufA/s1600-h/SL371159.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5232853504859495922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJ7Uia7O3fI/AAAAAAAAAL8/qbMDiRrgufA/s200/SL371159.JPG" border="0" /></a>We started the day at around 8 and walked 10 kilometers to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Portomarin</span></span>, which is surrounded by a big dam. The story goes, that underneath the water one can find the ruins from a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">battle</span> between two holy orders, who used to occupy each side of the riverbank - however all that is in the past so who cares? <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">Todays</span></span> journey was again very pleasant, with the oaks providing wonderful shade against the warm morning sun. As we reached <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">Portomarin</span></span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">farewelled</span></span> my <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">German</span> friends, who <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">decided</span> to walk on for another 10 kilometers or so. </div><br /><div>As I am sitting writing this blog I just saw Australia loose their soccer match to Argentina at a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">televison</span></span> in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">internet</span></span> cafe and now it has been occupied by a S<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">panish</span></span> family <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">party</span>, so the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">noise</span> is quite deafening. However one has to realise that life <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">doesn</span></span>´t stop because a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">perigrino</span></span> wishes to write a blog!</div><br /><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">Portomarin</span> was a great city for a stop over and the main street was full of bars and places to relax. There were many, many <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">peregrinos</span> here and I caught up with a fairly large group of friends, who I have seen on and off for the last 10 days. It was great to catch up and this farewell must surely be the last as we all are getting very close to Santiago. They have all been very good and supportive friends to me and all encouraged me to continue my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">Camino</span> on the bus. The fit pilgrims will be in Santiago in three days if everything goes well and everyone is very <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">focussed</span> ton reaching this goal, which for some, is the end of a road which has lasted for more than a month.</div><br /><div>I also caught up with my Belgium principal friend and he decided that we should try a special Spanish drink, made by fermented white wine - something like a Spanish version of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">grappa</span>. Quite nice but I am sure, also very alcoholic. As we sat there we said hello to a couple of Irish teachers, who were just about to start their <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">Camino</span>. They had a few questions to ask of us and of course we gave all our valuable advice for the payment of a cold beer. We shared a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">perigino</span> meal together - I had a mixed salad and pork chops and ice cream - what an adventurous <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">Galician</span> meal - shame on me!</div><br /><div></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEgZIELKI/AAAAAAAAAME/rSViyt1mIVc/s1600-h/SL371170.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5233539565272444066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEgZIELKI/AAAAAAAAAME/rSViyt1mIVc/s200/SL371170.JPG" border="0" /></a>The town square was set up with a stage, so after the meal we walked back to see what was happening. It was a folk dancing exhibition and judging from the crowd, everyone in the city must have turned up and everyone enjoyed the performances. There was even a Polish dancing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">troup</span>, which would have made <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">Jadwiga</span> proud.<br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>The next <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">mroning</span> I joined the human train, which the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">Camino</span> now has become - a never ending row of pilgrims, all heading for Santiago. At one stage I counted at least 20 pilgrims in front of me and about the same number behind me. However most seem to walk at the same speed, so people still keep a certain distance between each other. However you want to avoid the groups of young kids, as they never stop taking and playing their music - I am not sure what the purpose of their pilgrimage is - but of course that´s not up to me to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">dicide</span>.</div><br /><div>I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">inteded</span> to stay in a small village called Hospital,(not that I am in need of one) but obviously the village was that small, that I completely missed it and was well on my way on to the next village, when I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">discoved</span> my mistake. So I continued on and covered as such almost 17 kilometers, which was not bad, for an old chap. </div></div><p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEhUglt3I/AAAAAAAAAMM/grd77Glj2mA/s1600-h/SL371197.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5233539581212997490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEhUglt3I/AAAAAAAAAMM/grd77Glj2mA/s200/SL371197.JPG" border="0" /></a>The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">albergue</span> was just a small one with only 18 beds - and I was completely surrounded by <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">spanish</span> and french pilgrims, with no <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">english</span> what-so-ever. However as I sat with two <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">spanish</span> guys, we did share where we came from, what we were doing for work, from where we started the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">Camino</span> and other such pilgrim talk - so despite language difficulties, we killed a very pleasant hour. As it was a rather cold and wet afternoon, I turned in pretty early, as my sleeping bag was the only place, where I felt snug and warm, so I ended up having a long and good sleep before today´s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">etape.</span></p><p>I started out at 7.30 this morning - the weather was still cold and the rain had just stopped. I decided not to cover my backpack with the rain cover even though I kept it and my rain poncho h<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEhl0G-dI/AAAAAAAAAMU/47hfQc1Bz9M/s1600-h/SL371204.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5233539585858271698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKFEhl0G-dI/AAAAAAAAAMU/47hfQc1Bz9M/s200/SL371204.JPG" border="0" /></a><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">andy</span>. I was rather chilly in my t-shirt got warm <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">quicky</span> as I started to walk. I was given a very special gift this morning, as I somehow missed the ´human train´and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">didn</span>´t see a soul for the next two hours - not a walker - not a bike rider. It was absolutely beautiful to just be alone and not for one moment was I worried about, whether or not I was on the right track. There was rain all around me and black clouds moved quickly <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">accross</span> the sky - but somehow missed me (that´s faith). The sensation of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">diffrent</span> smells on this early morning walk was quite unique - almost like nature's own spice rack. I came upon the first gum-tree plantation - what a sensational view for an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">aussie</span> - and the scent in the early wet morning was not bad either.</p><p>As I walked along I was all of a sudden startled by this loud noise. My first thought was that it might be a jet fighter on an early morning training exercise - however a couple of minutes later I found out that is was cars driving on the wet freeway leading from Leon to Santiago. That shows how one gets use to the absolute silence one is able to experience on this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">Camino</span>, making any sort of noise seem very loud and definitely harsh on the ear.</p><p>I arrived at today´s destination <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">Palas</span> De <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">Rei</span> at 9.30, decided to write this blog and continue for another couple of hours to the next <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">albergue</span> at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">Mato</span> Casanova and hope I can get a bed there. I should be arriving there at 12 noon.</p><p>Before going on , may I take this opportunity to thanks everyone for their comments. They are great to read and I really enjoy being in touch with everyone. Thanks again.</p><p>I did arrive at Casanova at 11.55 , what estimation talent - only five minutes out. After settling in, a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">spanish</span> guy asked me if I would like to be picked up by a car from a nearby <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">albergue</span> to get some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">luch</span>. I of course said yes, as I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65">hadn</span>´t really had anything since lunch the day before. We were driven approx. 2 kilometers, to an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">albergue</span>, situated a little of the official <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67">Camino</span> track. We shared a lovely lunch - I chose an exotic sounding dish for an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68">entre</span> - it proved to be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69">scambled</span> eggs with champions - what a choice - followed by a wonderful home-cooked beef stew with carrots and onions and large chunks of beef - a great meal. I finished the meal off with the 'oldie but <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70">goodie</span>' <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">Tiamasu</span>, made with a Spanish recipe - I think! I met a Danish girl at the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72">albergue</span> after lunch and we took this opportunity to speak a little Danish and discuss our experiences on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73">Camino</span>.</p><p>This morning I started out at seven - the key for seven is missing on this keyboard - and only had planned to cover approx. 1o kilometers. I did so in about 2 hours, through wonderful country meadows full of old oak trees and open fields. Not so lucky this morning in regard to the 'train of people' - I hopped on in the middle of a large carriage, full of what sounded like excited holiday makers and not pilgrims. However I was told today by a Spanish young girl from south of Barcelona, that this week and the next is the official <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">spanish</span> holiday season - that's why I am surrounded by, what seems to be, millions of Spaniards. </p><p>Today the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">Camino</span> left the Region of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">Lugo</span> and entered the Region of A <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">Coruña</span> - the last region of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">Camino</span> in which Santiago is situated. I read on a stone just before arriving today - 51.5 kilometers to go! However the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">Camino</span> for me is like reading a good book - you just don't want it to end - so like a book, I'm really treasuring these last few days of this wonderful experience.</p><p><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">Melide</span> i s a city of eight thousand people - this keyboard again - and like most of the cities I have travelled through, it also has a medieval part with winding, narrow streets, with plenty of shops, bars and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">reastaurants</span> serving the speciality of this region - Octopus <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">Pulpo</span> - I think I will leave it at that!</p><p>I discovered that I had forgotten something of a treasure at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">Ferrerios</span> this morning - my shaving Mach 3 from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">Gilette</span>. I had planned to contact Gillette on my return to Australia and tell them that I only had used one -1 - blade during the entire <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">Camino</span> of 6 weeks - and I was going to suggest that in the future they could call this extraordinary good blade -The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">Camino</span> - however it wasn't to be and after finishing this blog, I am going down and find a supermarket to buy another Mach 3 - cause I look a little like the 'Neanderthal Man' at the moment.</p><p>Tomorrow I will be going to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">Arzua</span> - close to 16 + 2 kilometers - again the keyboard - and hope that will be OK for my knees. The next day I won't have a choice as I will have to cover <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">aprox</span>. the same distance, as there are no <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">albergues</span> on the way. However with this speed, I should be in Santiago on Sunday in time for the famous 12 o'clock Pilgrims Mass - which no doubt will be a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">CAMINO</span> MOMENT. However I will leave you for now and go out and enjoy <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">Melide</span> - get some food and buy that razor, so I can look a little more civilized, if that's possible on a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">Camino</span>.</p><p>A<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDmPpGJSI/AAAAAAAAAM0/VZCjgGAycFg/s1600-h/SL371230.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234312622480172322" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDmPpGJSI/AAAAAAAAAM0/VZCjgGAycFg/s200/SL371230.JPG" border="0" /></a><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">fter</span> a quiet afternoon looking around the old part of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">Melide</span>, I decided to have something to eat and sat in front of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">albergue</span> and made myself a bread roll with normal ham off the bone - most ham here in Spain is cured ham - and enjoyed a drink of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">Mezena</span> - apple-to help it go down. I said hello to two girls sitting next to me writing their diaries and we fell into conversation-as one does. They were both from Rome and last year students in medicine and law and had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">decided</span> to travel the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">camino</span> together, before their final <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">exams</span>. As they left, they invited me to join <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">them</span> later at a very famous <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">restaurat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">Exequiel</span>, specialising in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">pulperias</span> - octopus. I thought about it and finally decided to join them - I mean I didn´t have to eat at the restaurent, just have a drink. I found them a<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDl-vMZ0I/AAAAAAAAAMs/LRZkD6vFXvU/s1600-h/SL371237.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234312617942345538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDl-vMZ0I/AAAAAAAAAMs/LRZkD6vFXvU/s200/SL371237.JPG" border="0" /></a>n half of an hour later in the restaurent, with 8 other Italians, who had met up during the Camino. Some were from Firenze, others from Milan and the two girls from Rome. They were all well educated and their English not bad - at least they all had a go. They ordered of course a couple of serves of the dreaded - just look at the photo - some garlic prawns (should be called shrimps) a couple of T-bone steaks and wine which was drunk from a special kind of cup. We had a great evening together -the best for a couple of evenings, as my socializing had gone a bit quiet - I even tried the octopus and must admit it was very tender. We finished up as late as was possible - around 10.30 - and had this last picture taken before saying good night.</p><p>I woke early this morning as I knew that I had a pretty long walk ahead of me. I was on the road <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDmz2DC9I/AAAAAAAAANE/oev97ekyZHY/s1600-h/SL371212.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234312632198171602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKQDmz2DC9I/AAAAAAAAANE/oev97ekyZHY/s200/SL371212.JPG" border="0" /></a>and walking at 6.30am, still very dark around me. When walking at that hour one has to be very careful where one put ones feet and keep a close look-out for stones and uneven parts of the track. However I survived. As as the dawn broke it was just so special and absolutely quiet. There is something very special about this time of the day - I guess the promise of something brand new and fresh and untouched by human kind. One realises that it has all the potential within it for man to do good or bad, to heal or to hurt - quite simple, when put like that. As one walks at this time, one definitely realises the gift being unwrapped around oneself. Very special and very beautiful.</p><p>Imagine the bliss when all of a sudden from behind, a group of young kids, make this special moment, into some kind of a Luna Park or Bakken in Denmark - screaming and yelling and making Koo Koo sounds, (they must surely have been from Germany, with that kind of Koo Koo sounds). I stopped to let them pass me, but I guess the spell of that special moment was gone - how fragile is real beauty! </p><p>The occurence of eucalyptus is becoming more frequent as Imove through Galicia - I even saw a stringy bark this morning - so I have stopped taking photos of them and call out in excitement - however they are still beautiful trees and I really enjoy seeing them. I even show other pilgrims how to crunch the leaves in their hands to get the full eucalyptus expereince. However today I had a real good walking day without much discomfort and made the 17 kilometers in just 3 hours - so I arrived faily early and found a bed for the night. Great feeling! </p><p>Arzua is the last city I will be passing through before I reach Santiago. I have organised two hikes tomorrow Friday and Saturday, each of 15 kilometers, leaving only a short 5 kilometer walk into Santiago on Sunday. I will be relaxing the rest of the day and take the sighs of this city in as I wonder around. I will have to be on the road very early tomorrow as I have to reach the my next destination of Arca do Pino as early as possible, as there only is one albergue with room for 120, which will leave many pilgrims without a bed or forced to go to a private hostel.</p><p>I had a quiet evening and went to the local bar and watched a little from the Olympic Games . a basketball game between Germany and Spain. (one of the few things I have been able to watch) Went to bed at 9.30pm and went to sleep straight away as I didn´t hear the person sleeping in the top bunk go to bed.</p><p>I woke up at 2 am and was feeling rested and ready for a new day - hence I decided to pack my gear (very quietly) and I was on the road at 2.20 am. It was a wonderful clear night - unfortunately with no stars as the full moon was shining brightly - so I had to put up with the moon and its only companion Venus.</p><p>Although it was<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre1QJDdOI/AAAAAAAAAOc/vvRN-QOfj7U/s1600-h/SL371251.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236242523218998498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre1QJDdOI/AAAAAAAAAOc/vvRN-QOfj7U/s200/SL371251.JPG" border="0" /></a> with some reservations that I ventured out in the middle of the night, I was quietly confident that I was going to be OK and find my way all right. However it wasn´t easy as the waymarkers are very difficult to spot in the dark woods - especially when the moon disappears behind the trees. At one point I came to an intersection in the forrest and for the life of me couldn´t find a way marker to direct me to the right or the left, no matter how hard I tried. I chose to go left and after a while I finally saw a way marker - what a relief! I think my pulse rate fell immediately to something near normal. My torch didn´t work that well either and became useless very quickly - no a very good to happen in the middle of nowhere.</p><p>However I obviously got through the night as I am sitting here writing by blog. I did get lost a couple of times and simply followed the highway to Santiago - at least I knew I was moving in the right direction, even thought it was pretty hard under foot and one needed to keep a close eye on the traffic.</p><p>Around 5.30 I watched the moon go down - quite a wonderful sight. I just stopped to watch and enjoyed the sight and the stillness around me. As soon the moon had disappeared the stars came out in full glory and the milkyway shone above the horizon with the mighty Canis Major to the North and Orion to the West taking the honours. Even though I am used to the the magnificant night sky in Australia, the northern sky is quite beatiful and the milkyway or Compostella lived up to its name - Santiago - just follow the milkyway and you will get there.</p><p>Today´s distance was rather long for me being almost 20 kilometers (and I guess the walking on the main highway didn´t help much) and towards the end I wondered when I would be there. However because I didn´t follow the Camino path as such and walked on the highway instead I missed completely a small village, which I had on my map called Santa Irene and was therfore pretty confused when I entered a settlement, no-one seemed t know the name of. However I finally spoke to a couple of Spanish girls with a little English, who told me it in fact was Arca da Pino (also known as Pedrouzo) and to go back and I would find the main street and the albergue. I was elated than I finally had reached my destination for the day. I went straight for an alburgue - it was still open or rather it hadn´t closed yet, as last night´s costomers, hadn´t all left yet. So in I went in and tried to explain to the lady, that I already - despite the time - had walked for 6 hours and just wanted a bed for tonight. However although she agreed to take my backpack, I am stranded in a small cafe until 12 noon, when the alburgue will open its doors - so at least I can get a warm cup of coffee and something to eat and most importantly keep warm - my t-shirt is not the recommended way of dress on this cool, misty morning - in fact it feels like a bit of a winter Melbourne morning and is cold-cold-cold!</p><p>As I have still got 22 minutes left on this internet - account, I will tell you a little about the number of pilgrims carrying pretty bad injuries at this stage of the Camnio. They are all peregrino, who have commenced their Camino during the last week or so and due to their limited holiday, walk themselved to the bone every day - leaving them with foot - ankle and knee injuries, similar to the one I suffered. However because we are so close to Santiago, no-one even considers to stop and take a rest, but rather crawl to the ´finishing line`, which can be a pretty sad sight as they shuffle along the path. (maybe they should take a detour to Lourdes)</p><p>Tomorrow´s walk will take me to a high spot overlooking Sandiago called Monte Gozo - just 5 kilometers from the cathedral. If it is a clear day, it will my first opportunity to sight the cathedral. In days gone by, the first pilgrim in a party who spotted the cathedral, had the honour to lead the party into the city and to the cathedral - however these days I belive Monte Gozo can be a bit of a circus - with an albergue housing more than 800 pilgrims - the first spot where everyone is housed together - ready for the shot walk the next day. There will be buses and tour cars arriving, providing the opportunity for the ´pilgrims´to finish their journey on foot - take a bow, will you? Oh! I am still judging other people´s Camino - something I should have learned by now not to do. But it proves that the Camino hasn´t converted me into a saint or similar - so Australia - you will get me back almost as I left you. </p><p>As I said yesterday, the Camino is almost like a really good book, which you don´t want to end - and I am afraid that tomorrow is the last full page of the book - only followed by a partly full page - but hopefully with the climax.</p><p>Writing this I had a SMS message from Laraine this morning, that reminded me, that life doesn´t stop because I am doing this Camino. Our very good friend through my 35 years in Australia, Effie, had died during her sleep during the night. Although it wasn´t unexpected, it brings one back to the reality of ´real life´ - with its joys as well as its sorrows. </p><p>I have to adimid that I on reaching Arca and beeing so close of reaching Santiago, I was feeling just a little sad and dissapointed, that I would be reaching this milestone alone, without friends to share this special moment with. However what the Camino has taught me once again - worrying is not something one ought to do. As I arrived I met a wonderful family from Iceland - yes I said Iceland - surely the only icelandic family on the Camino. They travelled - mum and dad and two sons - and had been on the road for 6 weeks - not a bad effort. Mum orgnaised a lovely luch before long and invited me to join them. We had a terrific time together and I had a discussion with dad, who had a senior position in the education system in Iceland. We discovered faily quicky, that the similarities in our two education systems, fare outweighted the differences, only emphazising that policitians are the same world wide in regard to what thay belive and from where they get their ideas.</p><p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre19xgL0I/AAAAAAAAAOk/oifL4ImESXk/s1600-h/SL371266.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236242535468248898" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre19xgL0I/AAAAAAAAAOk/oifL4ImESXk/s200/SL371266.JPG" border="0" /></a>Let me take this opprtunity to tell you a little about Iceland (the blog ought to be a little educational as well). There are only 300.000 people living in Iceland and it is the only country where the whole population has a documented family tree going all the way back the the time (year 900) where Eric the Red and his son Leif, inhabited Iceland, as part of the Vikings expansion policy. They still ahve a very old naming system in Iceland to this very day, where the sons and daughters get their father´s first name as their surname. Hence in my case - Steen would be called Steen Gunnarson and Farina Karina Gunnarsdottir and so on - no doubt where names such as Rasmus(son) and Jack(son) derives from.</p><p>Later in the afternoon I got another suprise as two scottich friends all of a sudden turned up again. (by this time I was sure that everone I had meet during the past couple of weeks, all had left me for dead- so to speak). It was great to see them again and Angela cooked a wonderful spanish omelette, with capsicum, tomatoes and onions and the bottle of red didn´t go astray either. We all decided to travel the same distance the next day, reaching Santiago on the Sunday morning.</p><p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre2Db6qpI/AAAAAAAAAOs/SXDJbusiZm8/s1600-h/SL371269.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236242536988322450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre2Db6qpI/AAAAAAAAAOs/SXDJbusiZm8/s200/SL371269.JPG" border="0" /></a>The next morning brought a new aspect to my Camino travel, as the rain came tumbling down and I knew I had to get out and do the days walk in that weather. I put my rain cover on my backpack and my rain pontio over my head and out I went. As the path quicky went through a dark wooded area, I decided to follow close behind a group of iatlian pilgrims, who at least had a workable torch. For the first little while, I was careful where I put my feet to avoid the worst of the puddles - however it didn´t tale long before the rain intentified and a small river came flowing <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre20l1OiI/AAAAAAAAAO8/XYWoHJOoKmU/s1600-h/SL371275.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236242550183246370" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre20l1OiI/AAAAAAAAAO8/XYWoHJOoKmU/s200/SL371275.JPG" border="0" /></a>down the path, covering our legs well up to the angles. By that stage who cared and we all continued on, laughing and making light the wet conditions.</p><p>On this last leg the Camino passed the airport and the runway in very close proximity and I couldn´t help thinking that Laraine would be arriving there in just a few days. I am so looking forward to seeing her again after these six weeks. I took the opportunity for a cofee break in a small cafe near by - a welcome rest as well as an opportunity for a nice hot cup of coffee. As I resumed my jouney, I came upon an italian group, sitting in the rain, reading the Gospel and singing hymns - not a rare sight on this part of the camino, as especially many church groups from Italy, seem to have joined the Camino.</p><p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre2srN8vI/AAAAAAAAAO0/j5Vnxth8pgg/s1600-h/SL371280.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5236242548058354418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SKre2srN8vI/AAAAAAAAAO0/j5Vnxth8pgg/s200/SL371280.JPG" border="0" /></a>As I arrived at Monte Gozo, I had another huge supprise waiting for me. The woman I wrote about meeting in Astorga, (the Italian architect, now working in Barcelona) appeared and once again the Camino gave me a wonderful supprise. After all I was not going to Santiago without friends, whom I could share this special moment with. How lucky am I.<br /></p><br /><p></p></div></div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-62963152761164535532008-08-02T05:21:00.000-07:002008-08-10T04:05:07.917-07:00Week 5 Astorga and heading towards the Galician mountainsLeaving Arstoga was once again caught up with the bus drama, which seems to continue despite trying so hard to figure it out. Having examined the bus timetable the night before I was pretty certain what to do. I went to the bust stop from the previous day and sat patiently and waited for the bus, which was due to leave at 11.05am. At 10.55 an elderly Spanish couple came over to me and tried to explain something to me about the bus - none of which I could understand a word of. In desperation the old man then fetched his bycycle - gestured to me to pick up my backpack and follow him. He took me down the street and around a corner where to my surprise another bus stop appeared - obviously a bus stop for Sunday buses. What that nice or was that nice? What a spanish gentleman and a true friend of the peregrinos!<br /><br /><br /><div></div><div>Not only did I get to the right stop, but 3 of my friends stood there and waited for the same bus - what a chance meeting - but that seems to happen again and again on this Camino. One can never be sure of who you will meet.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Arriving in Arstoga around mid day, I quickly found the albergue as I knew it was situated very near the cathedral, which wasn´t hard to miss. The albergue wasn´t the nicest I have been it and it accomodated almost 90 pilgrims per night. But I got my bed and was quite happy to play tourist for the next few hours.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Arstoga is a city with almost 15,000 people. It has served as a busy crossroad since Roman times for several important pilgrim routes and contains many historic buildings. The cathedral of St. Marta is beautiful and I was lucky to arive at 12 noon just as the Mass commenced. I am not sure if it was a special celebration, but there were 4 priests celebrating the mass as well as a priest with the role of a cantor. The cantor sang beautifully and one could be in no doubt it was a Spanish Mass as the flavour of the music and the style in which it was sung was very Spanish and particulrly beautiful and moving. I spotted quite a few pilgrims seated around the church which was nice to see. I am quite proud now as I can say PAZ at the sign of peace - not bad for me.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Opposite the cathedral one finds the famous Gaudi building known as the Bishop´s Palace - Palacio Episcopal - however no bishop lives there. Museum de los Camino is housed there and is a vey interesting collection of artifacts from the roman times of trading, pilgrims ect. I am very much looking forward to see Gaudi´s work in Barcellona - he also had a manificant building in Leon which I saw.</div><div><br /><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc6a8B1sCI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/eu_l0JXxNFw/s1600-h/SL370984.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230713726678970402" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc6a8B1sCI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/eu_l0JXxNFw/s200/SL370984.JPG" border="0" /></a>The afternoon I relaxed with a couple of girls I briefly had met in Leon - Vibeke from Oslo in Norway and Leonie from Berlin - both girls studying Physiotherapy in Holland as it is a cheeper option. They have had their ´student rounds´all over europe and I think this is another good example of what the European Market does in freeing up trade and the labour market. We ended up going to dinner and have some Tappas - garlic prawns, mixed salad with eggs and olives, potatoes in garlic and finally some lovely mushrooms - a little different but very lovely. </div><div><br /></div><div>We decided to go elsewhere for our sweets as Astorga is a real chocolate centre of Spain - not sure why but you see chacolate everywhere and in all sorts of colours and shapes. We all bought something delicious and enjoyed the experience.</div><div><br /></div><div>My two young German friends went out and had a good time, dancing the night away and I wandered if they ever would get in as the albergue close the door at at 10.30 - and I mean close! No excuses will open the door again - not even Aladdin´s secred chant. I asked the girls in the morning what time they came in and they told me 1.30am. I asked how they came in and one told me that she had climed the downpipe to reach the balcony and that way she had opened the front door for her friend.- Yes we often hear that boys will be boys - but now I think we safely can add that girls will be girls - you see these things happen when I am not there to guide them a little!!!</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>When I came back from dinner there was another supprise as Anna, a girl from America I had meet all the way back at Ventosa, when I first got injured, sat behind the desk signing newly arrived pilgrims into the the albergue. S<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc6bwPbs7I/AAAAAAAAAKE/UGFx9TPNP9U/s1600-h/SL370988.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230713740694631346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc6bwPbs7I/AAAAAAAAAKE/UGFx9TPNP9U/s200/SL370988.JPG" border="0" /></a>he smiled and said she had seen my name and just had waited to catch up with me. I asked what in heavens name she was doing there and she told me that she had a very bad tendonitis in her ankle and had been at this particular alburque for 8 days and had to stay for another 8 on doctors orders - so I feel I am no hard done by? At least I am now able to freely sight see and move around the cities with only a slight pain - Poor Anne could not move from A to B. When she is able to move again she will take the train to Santiago and thatwill be the end of her Camino - I can tell you that there are many ´tragic´ stories from the Camino as people break down suddenly - the body just telling them that it has had enough!</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>This morning the Camino reached what many believe is a climax - or at least one of the many important moments on the journey. The Camino is entering the highest point of the whole journey and as no bus goes throught these mountains - at least not the way the camimo does - I decided to take a taxi so I was able to follow the walkers all the way on this special day. I invited Anna to come along as it would give her a day out - she could then take the bus back again to the alburgue. She agreed to come, which made me happy as I had been able to do something to brighten up her camino a little.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>We set out at 11am and slowly crept up in the mountains, observing walkers working hard to claim the hills.The n<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqK61TafI/AAAAAAAAAJc/etscSzs8aJc/s1600-h/SL370999.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230695859294005746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqK61TafI/AAAAAAAAAJc/etscSzs8aJc/s200/SL370999.JPG" border="0" /></a>ature started to change and some wonderful oaks started to appear. However as as the scrubs gradually became smaller and smaller and the pastures covering the mountain sides at the higher altitude started to become visible one really started to feel that this whole change of scenery was an impirtant time on the journey. Two kilometers from the highest pont, La Cruz de Ferro, I asked to be let out, as I wanted to walk the last couple of kilometers up to that important point. There was quite a few walkers around me and everyone seemed to be in a very reflective mood and very quite - each walking with their own thoughts and feelings. The La Crus de Ferro is a powerful symbol on the Camino - a place traditional perigrinoes will put a stone symbolizing the reason for their <a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqKM92w2I/AAAAAAAAAJU/VJESs-QEnE0/s1600-h/SL370991.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230695846981845858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqKM92w2I/AAAAAAAAAJU/VJESs-QEnE0/s200/SL370991.JPG" border="0" /></a>pilgrimage - maybe something hard they have had to deal with in their life - maybe a decision they have toiled with - maybe a broken relationship - maybe something completely different - but everyone is aware of the importantce of this moment as they stand under the simple cross on top of the stonepile, collected during centuries and quietly adding their small contribution to the story of mankind. A most touching moment and one I will remember for years to come.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div>I wonder if you can spot the handsome guy at the pole? </div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><div><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqMAnDYjI/AAAAAAAAAJs/WdqQv2AIhI8/s1600-h/SL370996.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230695878024716850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqMAnDYjI/AAAAAAAAAJs/WdqQv2AIhI8/s200/SL370996.JPG" border="0" /></a></div></div><div>I guess I was lucky as I could jump back into the taxi, while the walkers had to make the very tiring and difficult journey down the mountain - and journey very hard on the legs and the joints. It was almost a 30 kilometer walk today and very hot - especially when some of the journey is on a the asphalt road - hot under foot with very little air. And as the walkers arrived late this afternnon, many didn´t look too good. I can assure you that there will be many sore bodies tonight.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div>The camino has changed a little I feel - as so many new pilgrims have joined the Camino from Leon onwards - people with only a couple of weeks holiday, whi then can reach Santiago within that time. The crowds are getting bigger, the albergues bigger and more noisy and people maybe a little less aware of each-others needs - and the numbers will increase every day from this point on.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqLmP5AtI/AAAAAAAAAJk/d1VxCXh45fY/s1600-h/SL371005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230695870948246226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJcqLmP5AtI/AAAAAAAAAJk/d1VxCXh45fY/s200/SL371005.JPG" border="0" /></a> The city of Ponferra which I now have arrived in is a fairly big city of almost 60.000 people. It has always been an important city in the mining game which has been part of these mouuntains since the middle ages - gold - iron and other valuable minerals, which since the earliest of times and civilisations have been important trading tools.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>This is a picture of the albergue in Ponferra. </div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc9gDe-JEI/AAAAAAAAAKU/vhHd3TKp7oM/s1600-h/SL371020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230717113114436674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJc9gDe-JEI/AAAAAAAAAKU/vhHd3TKp7oM/s200/SL371020.JPG" border="0" /></a>I have already been on my tourist tour and seen the Castillo de los Templarios, an old castle from around year 1200, built once again to protect the pilgrims as they went through these mountains. (if you get the impression that these pilgrims have been very important in these part of the world, you are right) The castle has during the last couple of years undergone serious renovations and the Common Market has been heavily involved in the project and I can see from the sign erected at the site, that both Norwey and Iceland have been great contributers to this particular project, which is good to see.</div><div><br /></div><div>Having spent a fairly quiet afternoon (mainly writing my blog which took more than 2 hours) I went back to the albergue and decided to have a quiet evening and just read a book. It was an opportune time as I really didn´t know any of the other perigrinos and as I said, felt I just needed a quiet evening. </div><div><br /></div><div>As I was reading a group of young people came and had dinner next to me and I couldn´t help hearing the Australian accent amongst the group. So, that was the end of the reading and all of a sudden I was introduced to this group of young people - 2 sisters from the Sunshine Coast - a <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2h3XTiiI/AAAAAAAAAKc/PEiB4n6Ey8A/s1600-h/SL371038.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231694610057890338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2h3XTiiI/AAAAAAAAAKc/PEiB4n6Ey8A/s200/SL371038.JPG" border="0" /></a>German criminal investigator from Munich - an Intalian guy - a Swedish girl working in Gotenburg and finally two Spanish guys - quite an international group, don´t you agree? An hour or so later my friend and fellow school principal from Belgium came and got hold of a guitar and started to play - and could he play. He played the most fantastic blues and all of a sudden the whole place just gathered around us to listen and enjoy the music. It didn´t take long and we sang all sorts of songs, both Italian as well as Spanish - great evening which lasted to 10.30 when the hospitalier came and asked us all to go to bed. Once again a great night just happening (an old guy can´t even get peace just to sit and read - what a shame!)</div><div><br /></div><div>This morning I started out early as everyone had to be on the road by 7.30am. Still dark I ventured out to find the Estacion Autobuses, which proved not that easy. The streets here in Spain - in a faily large city - at 7.30 in the morning - are absolutely deserted. Not a soul to be seen and only one or two cars venturing down the road. The Spanish time clock is quite diffrent from the rest of the world (I even include Italy in this). The city starts to wake up at around 8-8.30 - quiete slowly and in no hurry. Around 2 pm the shops close their doors and once again the streets become deserted. At 5pm the shops re-open and out of nowhere appear the human race once more - shopping, socializing, having a drink at the bar or just strolling in the street. At around 8.30 the bars and restaurants are overflowing with people eating dinner and not to make the evening end too early, we might get home to bed at around midnight. Who said the Spaniards are stressed? Not me!</div><div><br /></div><div>The bus drove through a wonderful countryside today and the walkers would have had a wonderful trip towards the mountains and a difficult climb tomorrow. Villages seem to appear out of nowhere as we came around a hill and the ususal church-tower came into view.</div><div><br /></div><div>The city (5000 people) Villafranca del Bierzo is surrounded by mountains (not quite as high as in the southern Europe) and very pretty. The streets are very steep and one has to climb either up or down streets and lanes covered with cobblestones, whereever one goes. The local market is here today and help me to paint a wonderful picture of this small city and its community.</div><div><br /></div><div>There is a very famous pilgrim church - the Church of Santiago here in Villafrance, with a very famous side entrance facing north called Puerta del Perdon. The story goes that in olden days or maybe just in by-gone days, pilgrims that were not able to continue their journey to Santiago, crossing over the next mountain range (maybe because of bung kness) were able to receive a special blessing and absolution at this door, so they wouldn´t be condemmed for ever (just joking). Inside the church is a statue of St. James himself, dressed as a peregrino. Quiet a history.</div><div><br /></div><div>The mountain ranges which are to be crossed tomorrow, are quite important for this region, as t<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2iUbcmUI/AAAAAAAAAKk/UHNn2Kd9Bdg/s1600-h/SL371071.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231694617859889474" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2iUbcmUI/AAAAAAAAAKk/UHNn2Kd9Bdg/s200/SL371071.JPG" border="0" /></a>hey determine much of the weather - especially the heavy and frequent rainfall, which can happen from now on. The mountains are the first obsticle the westerly winds, crossing the Atlantic Ocean meet and as such much rain falls between them and the Atlantac coast (quite similar to the weather conditions in and around Melbourne). Due to both this change in the weather as well as the location close to the the ocean, the diet changes to much heavier cuisine - thick soups, stews, and lots of sea food. I just passed a cafe packed with people all eating a plate of something, which looked like marinated pork cubes - but looking closer (without being rude) discovered that is was octopus (not quite ready yet). However it looked delicious and fresh and no wonder that the place was packed for lunch.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have had some good news today as there is a small bus company providing a bus service for the next three days journey - something I wasn´t sure of. The bus tomorrow will leave at 8am and go to O´Cebreiro - but will leave me a little challenge, which I am sure I will be able to pass. I have to walk 5 kilometers with my backpack to get from the bus stop into the city - I guess that will be the challenge of the day (and I won´t be alone - yesterdays steep decent gave a lot of peole trouble with their legs and they will no doubt accompany me tomorrow). From O´Cebreiro there will be bus services to Tricastela (three castles) and further to Sarria, so I guess so far so good. What happens after Sarria I won´t even worry about.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once again thanks for all your wonderful messages - I read them often and really enjoy your comments.</div><div><br /></div><div>Had a quiet evening and just wondered around this very charming village. There are pilgrims everywhere and it is obviously a very popular stop for everyone. The various cafe´s are overflowing and people are just walking the narrow lane ways, looking at the local shops. As the main part of the village is down the valley, wherever you go is up and as the laneways are coubble stones, one has to look where one is walking. Tried to find the place from where the bus will be leaving tomorrow - however I haven´t been successful, so I will have a chat to the hospilero at the albergue - in esperanto I think! It is a very, very hot afternnoon and evning. I belive the temperature this afternnoon reached 45 degrees and that was in the shade. It was so hot I couldn´t even sit in the sun and read - and that´s hot! Imagine there are many, many piligrinos walking in this heat - not wonder they are exhausted when they arrive late in the afternnon - often to a albergue which has no more room - so they have to either find private accomodation or continue to the next village - or as a last option, sleep under the stars.</div><div><br /></div><div>After a good night´s sleep, with open veranda doors - (definitly improves the quality of the air) I did find the way to the bus and found a few tired or wounded peligrinos waiting as well. Twins (I just corrected myself writing two twins - very imporessive) from the southern part of France as well as a girl from Greece - the first I have met from that country so far. The bus arrived and off <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2iqKieTI/AAAAAAAAAKs/5ERBtr_4cBs/s1600-h/SL371073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231694623694551346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2iqKieTI/AAAAAAAAAKs/5ERBtr_4cBs/s200/SL371073.JPG" border="0" /></a>we went, driving through some absolutely magnificent country, as we ventured deeper and deeper and higher and higher into the Galician mountains - quite breathtaking views. Finally arrived at a village called Pedrafita do Cebreiro, situated 5 kilometers from my distination of O´Cebreiro. Hence I ventured out for my first walk in quite sometime and was very much looking forward to it. It was 5 kilometers up and up and up - almost 500 meters - hence 1 meter up every 10 meters walking, which is quite a steep raise. However it went wonderfuly well and I so enjoyed the expereince of walking once again. As I already told you the views were magnificent, with the valley of Valcarce laying deep between the steep mountain sides, which seem to never stop. I counted the montain sides as far as I could and stopped at 11, each raising behing the one in front - more steeply - and diffrent colour - a different shape.<br /></div><div></div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq74rXoBaI/AAAAAAAAALE/brhUIYsIotc/s1600-h/SL371084.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231700499533137314" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq74rXoBaI/AAAAAAAAALE/brhUIYsIotc/s200/SL371084.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div>When I arrived at the top - 1350 meters in elevation (4300 feet) I found a very different looking village - obviolusly use to snow in winter as the roofs all had small special ´fences´to hold the snow from falling. The roofs were also made from either slate or straw and looked quite diferent from anything I have seen so far.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2jfoq3wI/AAAAAAAAAK8/aG-VoAuh3Dk/s1600-h/SL371083.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231694638048009986" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq2jfoq3wI/AAAAAAAAAK8/aG-VoAuh3Dk/s200/SL371083.JPG" border="0" /></a>The first stop was the olderst church on the camino - Iglesie de Santa Maria Real - built around year 900. I took some time just sitting quietly reflecting on my Camino, listening to some quiet music playing in the background. I felt so at peace within myself and a deep sense of joy filled me. I guess four weeks away from the everyday stresses of life, one is able to sit quietly and just feel that sense of deep peace and joy and so very grateful that I have had this unique opportunity to experience this Camino. I lit a candle and placed it under a small statue of Mary and said a prayer of thanks for being loved by so many people - especially my wonderful family. I am truly a lucky man!</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq740kwJtI/AAAAAAAAALM/Pwlhyik4SUI/s1600-h/SL371079.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231700502004115154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq740kwJtI/AAAAAAAAALM/Pwlhyik4SUI/s200/SL371079.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div>I have already told about the huge numbers of perigrinos at this stage of the Camino. When I arrived at the albergue at 12 noon there were already almost 80 people waiting for a bed - amongst these a number of groups from Italy with many young people from various parishes. These groups travel the Camino over a couple of weeks and hence put lots of stress on the available places for accommadation. But easy - I have been told that it will get even busier the closer to Santiago I get. Can´t wait! </div><div><br /></div><div>During the afternnon I found a small bar to get some lunch. I ordered my usual beer and a plate of specially prepared fish and mushrooms - delicious. However as I was sitting with my beer waiting for lunch to be served, I was presented with you know what - the Galician delicacy of octopus . looking quite harmless yes one may say, even delicious - white meat with a redish surround. I was also pleased that it looked quite dead so I counted to ten and chose a piece without any obvious octopus charateristics - and in it went! I chewed - and I chewed - and I chewed - the taste not bad but the thought! It somehow came alive in my mouth and I thought of Jules Vernes novels - and his mastery description of the giant octopus - and just swallowed the beast. What a CAMINO MOMENT! I did it! The local guy standing next to me just laughed and ate two peaces at once just to prove a point.</div><div></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq75ZkemGI/AAAAAAAAALc/W5xO28zTihM/s1600-h/SL371078.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231700511935076450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq75ZkemGI/AAAAAAAAALc/W5xO28zTihM/s200/SL371078.JPG" border="0" /></a>When I returned I just sat quetly and marvelled at the surrounds - completely encircled by mountains as far as I could see. If one can´t feel the power of creation at moments such as these, one ought to be dead. As I sat there the weather changed in a matter of minutes and black clouds came rolling in and before long it started to rain. The smell of the rain as it touched the ground was so sweet and just added to the whole sensation of this wonderful moment.</div><div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq75Mi98DI/AAAAAAAAALU/CIGgMA-Dacw/s1600-h/SL371088.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231700508439081010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJq75Mi98DI/AAAAAAAAALU/CIGgMA-Dacw/s200/SL371088.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Let me get back to the bus saga, becaused it seems never to end. When getting off the bus this morning, I enquired ( or the French twins did it for me) that I was to catch another small bus the follwing morning to Triacastela at 7am from the same bus stop. Great I thought - finally some clear talk.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>So this morning I got up at 5am to start my downhill venture down the mountain to be at the bust stop at Pedrrafita do Cebreiro. Pitch dark and completely surrounded by thick mist or fog - like walking in a cloud - and may I say not too warm(remember I discarded my rain jacket in Ventoso to lighten to load). </div><div><br /></div><div>However once again it was a wonderful feeling - just to be out there on your own even through I could anly see approx. 3 meters in front of me and had absolutely no sence of moving as I had no reference point. It was just like walking on the spot, with the only noice being my walking poles. Quite a strange sensation. At one point I thought ¨I hope the clicks from the walking poles don't sound like some animals mating call - that´s all I need on this deserted mountain side¨. However the silence was something quite spectacular as when I stood still, the silence was absolute - one alone in the universe. The trip took a little over 60 minutes and was quite steep and as always - downhill is harder for the legs than an uphill walk. It became lighter as I approached the village and the sky started to change colour to the most beautiful pale pink one could imagine.</div><div></div><div></div><div>After a mix-up regarding the right bus-stop (not where I got off the bus yesterday morning - would be too easy or logical) I finally found the stop 100 meters down the road. Relieved I sat down and yes - I was supprised as the bus drove up the montain from where I had just walked down. What is it with these Spanish bus companies? However the drive this morning to Tricastelia was wonderful, the bus following the small roads, meandering though the mountains, covering the various small villages. Once again the scenery was breathtaking and one could only be in awe of such beauty. As I arrived it was only just after 8 am and I already had received the daily sms message from Laraine, wishing me a good day. Still cold from my early journey I walked straight into a cafe and ordered myself breakfast, with a strong, hot cup of coffee. Enjoying this moment of heavenly bliss - I heard the old mother tongue again and fell in talk with a Danish couple doing their second camino as in many years. Had it changed them? Definitly as they had had a sea change and moved to another part of Denmark to a quieter and more fulfilling life. I will spend my day here in this village and expect to see the hordes arriving in a couple of hours taking over this quiet place. I have already found out that they are celebrating a special perigrino´s mass at 7pm tonight, so I will definitely join in that celebration. Until next time - Bien Camino</div><div><br />The Mass was wonderful and the small church was overflowing with pilgrims from all over the world. Once again I was not able to understand word by word what was being said but nevertheless it was a wonderful atmosphere and celebration. The priest gave the following reflection out, which I would like to share with you.</div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div align="center"><em>The Camino....the way....the road</em></div><div align="center"><em>What is the ´Camino¨?</em></div><div align="center"><em>Are we walking to achieve human and spiritual objectives?</em></div><div align="center"><em>Are we searching on the culture of the little villages along the way?</em></div><div align="center"><em>Or is it a sport? Tourism? A holiday?</em></div><div align="center"><em>The ´Camino¨is not for simple tourism"; the physical effort is worthy of higher things.</em></div><div align="center"><em>On the ´Camino´you can seek and find yourself.</em></div><div align="center"><em>On the ´Camino¨you can find brotherhood through shared vision, projects and plans.</em></div><div align="center"><em>On the ´Camino¨you live amongst others.</em></div><div align="center"><em>You climb a stairway of values, the good and the bad.</em></div><div align="center"><em>Getting to know yourself, you can get to know Jesus Christ.</em></div><div align="center"><em>The ´Camino´was born from the faith of our ancestors, who were seeking something;</em></div><div align="center"><em>The clear aim of Faith is to express our inner selves, the life within us.</em></div><div align="center"><em>The´Camino´is universal; throughout the world there are those who think it is better to exclude others; the ´Camino´shows us otherwise.</em></div><div align="center"><em></em></div><div align="center"><em>On the ´Camino´you need -</em></div><div align="center"><em>To believe that humans have more virtues than vices.</em></div><div align="center"><em>To accept that those mistakes we make along the way are only signs of our humanity.</em></div><div align="center"><em>To carry on along the road, although at times we fall; by rising up, you learn.</em></div><div align="center"><em>To belive through love, and not from fear. If you have fear, you may not love.</em></div><div align="center"><em>To believe freely - Faith is not a burden.</em></div><div align="center"><em>Not to be slaves but to accept love.</em></div><div align="center"><em></em></div><div align="center"><em>If you sense love, you will sense all that is around you.</em></div><div align="center"><em>There are marks and signs along the ´Camino¨, but you must seek for directions within yourself.</em></div><div align="center"><em>All those on the ´Camino´must along the way, seek to help Jesus Christ in his task in working for a better world.</em></div><div align="center"><em></em></div><div align="right"><em>Parroquia De Santiago Perigrino</em></div><div align="right"><em>De Triacastela, Galacia. España</em></div><div align="right"><em>Parroco Augusto Losada Lopez</em></div><div align="right"><em></em> </div><div align="right"><em></em></div><div align="right"><em></em></div><div align="right"><em></em></div><div align="left">Quite wonderful and thought provoking I thought, as the ´Camino´is so hard to describe. Just as I waited to get into the internet cafe this afternoon to write this latest report, two spanish school teachers were waiting to get in (one was born in England which made the conversation a little easier) and we discussed why the Camino is so special - why we were having this conversation, as in ´real life´ we would never even have started the conversation. It is one of the most powerful effects the Camino has on people. Quite special and wonderful.</div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Otherwise last evening I had a very interesting conversation with a young spanish girl from the northern part of Spain, who spoke about not beeing from Spain but from the Basque Country. She felt very strongly that this part of Spain, consisting of 7 regions - 4 in Spain and 3 in southern France - had a claim on independance and supported the political fight to achieve this. She explained that the movement had become strong, especially follwing Franco, who had supressed the Basque culture and language for many years ( similar to Catalonien north of Barcelona). It hit home to me how little we generally know about world affairs and the problems people in different regions of the world face on a daily basis.</div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">I arrived in Sarria this morning, not quite sure if I would get any accomodation in this city, as the rumours had gone out last evening, that all beds already had been taken. However I found one, but there is no doubt that the crowds have started to ascent on the Camino. Sarria s the last starting point for peole who wishing to obtain a <em>Compostela - </em>a special certificate for pilgrims who have walked at least 100 kilometers on the way to Santiago.</div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Sarria is also the last big city before Santiago, approx. 13.000 and I found a much needed bank and a hole in the wall, to get a few more Euros, before the final stretch.</div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">You might have picked up that my social life somewhat has quietened down the last two days and there is something in that. With the large groups of people coming in, it is much harder for everyone travelling on their own, to make contact, as people in groups seem to stick together.</div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">And just as I started to feel a little hinch if fustration, the lovely Eithlin from Ireland, who I spoke about at least two weeks ago (she left me a book and an apple - that one) all of a sudden walked past me and what a wonderful is was to see a know face. We share lunch together and spoke about the crowds and how it had impacted on the Camino. As we sat there, one after an other peregrino came by and said ´hello Gunnar ´ and Eithlin asked me - Are you some kind of UN deligate on this Camino, or what was your problem with people not speaking to you. (however I have to add that the hello´s came from peole I only have ´slept ´with and never had a meaningful conversation with - just clarifying)</div><div align="left"> </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Despite doctors advice I have decided to give the walking another try and will start tomorrow morning, cutting the daily task in half and as such walk approx. 10 kilometers instead of the 20 and see how I go. I really hope and pray that I will be able to get on the road again and who knows, make it all the way to Santiago. Wouldn´t it be wonderful (and save me from having a go at the Spanish bus system). If you all say a little prayer for me, I am sure it will be OK.</div><em></em><div align="center"><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><span style="font-size:100%;"></span></div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-72761027555347188242008-07-28T06:23:00.000-07:002008-08-04T10:54:34.340-07:00Week 4 Corrion De Los Condes into Leon<span style="font-size:85%;">What a start to the week - <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">hitching</span> a ride with a mad <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Englishman</span>, living in <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Portugal</span> and transporting furniture from Spain to England via a ferry from the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">north</span> of Spain. Nevertheless what a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">godsend</span> and I took full advantage of this ride out of the end of the world - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Fromasta</span></span></span>.<br /><br />As we started out at 7am I already arrived at my destination at 7.20am and tried to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">get my</span> bearings in this new place - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Corrion</span></span></span> De Los <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Condes</span></span></span> - now with a population of 2500 but in more important times it was 10,000.<br /><br />Found my w</span><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCXz6m3_I/AAAAAAAAAH8/jHpnziScGyE/s1600-h/SL370756.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229455831659372530" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCXz6m3_I/AAAAAAAAAH8/jHpnziScGyE/s200/SL370756.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">ay</span> to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">albergues</span></span></span> - in fact two, both run by an order of nuns, but first opening at 12 noon. So what does a lonely figure do in a strange place on an early Sunday morning - of course, spotting a couple of girls emerging form the distance. It <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">happend</span></span> to be two Danish girls and they invited me for morning coffee at the local bar and we enjoyed each <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">others company</span> for an hour or so. I then went to see the church next to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">albergue</span></span></span>, which I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">decided to</span> stay in.<br /></span><div></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">I arrived at 8.40, sat down quietly and behold me from the back of me the most <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">beautiful</span> singing or chanting commenced. I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">sneeked</span></span></span> a little look and was surprised to see the nuns ( approx 19 of them) sitting behind a iron fence, singing this chant - all in one tone, whilst the organ accompanied them. It was so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">beautiful</span> and so reflective and something which I never had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCYAqOQbI/AAAAAAAAAIE/f7rvklx3SUM/s1600-h/SL370760.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229455835080311218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCYAqOQbI/AAAAAAAAAIE/f7rvklx3SUM/s200/SL370760.JPG" border="0" /></a>experienced</span> before. As the mass commenced - I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">forgotten</span> all about it was a Sunday morning - the church filled up and I just sat there and tried to take it all in. The part normally taken up by lay people in Australia,was all done by the nuns - still from behind the church, so at no time were they <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">visible</span> to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">congregation</span>. Certainly a special mass and a very special event and celebration.<br /><br />The order living in this monastery was the Sisters of St. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Caire</span></span></span> and this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">particular</span> monastery was commenced in 1055 and St. Francis is said to have stayed there on one of this pilgrimages. The <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">facilities</span> were OK and one of the features was a wonderful court yard, where one could sit and reflect on the day.<br /><br />At <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">midday I</span> wandered up the main street and was met by hellos and cuddles as I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">caught</span> up with both Caroline from the USA and Bradley. We all had a great afternoon, until these two lovely <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">companions</span>, who I have travelled with on and off for almost a week, caught the bus to Leon and probably will be out of sight for the rest of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Camino</span></span></span>. I guess goodbyes are never easy, especially on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Camino</span></span></span> where people seem to be able to build rather special relationships in such a short time.<br /><br />Harvest times has arrived in these parts of Spain and the tractors and other machinery are working 14 hours not stop, to take advantage of the fine and dry weather. Sitting in the cafe yesterday <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">afternoon</span>, I estimated that they moved at least 150,000 tons of wheat through the s</span><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCZJgzjrI/AAAAAAAAAIU/tGUGP1197SQ/s1600-h/SL370785.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229455854636601010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCZJgzjrI/AAAAAAAAAIU/tGUGP1197SQ/s200/SL370785.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">mall village - not a bad effort. Here in Spain only small trucks are allowed to be on the road on Sundays -hence <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">yesterday's</span> effort was solely done by tractors with a hanger. Already this morning I saw much heavier trucks at work, carrying more than 30 ton per load. The harvest has changed the landscape markedly - it has somehow become dull and lifeless. No more are the the many shades of gold visible, as the wind moves the straw around. During these last two days,apart from the wheat,one also sees <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">sugar</span> cane as well as the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">wonderful</span> sight of sun-flower fields, scattered throughout the landscape. No wonder so many people fall in love with these wonderful flowers, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">following</span> the sun <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">throughout</span> the day.<br /><br />Despite my knees are improving, (oh, not my knees again) I have decided not to even try to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">walk</span> again until after Leon in approx. 3 days time. Hence, I still try to bus each stage everyday - something not that easy, as the buses don´t <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">necessarily</span> follow the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Camino</span></span></span>.<br /><br />However this morning I arrived at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Sahagun</span></span></span> -a very important seat of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">ecclesiastical</span> power in <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">medieval</span> times.Once again there are a number of churches in this city, famous for either their a</span><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpEiSoErI/AAAAAAAAAHk/IJTN0dACRXY/s1600-h/SL370823.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229146537743356594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpEiSoErI/AAAAAAAAAHk/IJTN0dACRXY/s200/SL370823.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">rchitecture</span></span> or history. I found a nice <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">albergue</span></span></span>, where the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">internet</span></span></span> is free, so I am taking this opportunity to get up to date with my diary. On arriving, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">once again</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">caught</span> up with my Belgian principal friend, so we will together go to the village and explore the sites. I have already found out that my bus for the next leg, departs at 9,15am from the other end of the village ( a 15 minute walk I guess and a small trial for my legs). The next leg on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Camino</span></span></span> will be <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">Mansilla</span></span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">de</span></span></span> la <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">Mulas</span></span></span>, the last stop before Leon. (By the way I have passed the halfway point of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">Camino</span></span></span> and still finding every day so very special and a wonderful gift.<br /><br />By the way, thanks to everyone who has been sending me messages. I really enjoy reading them and they make me feel very loved and appreciated. I am also happy that this diary somehow is able to convey my trip - something I can assure you, is very difficult indeed. It is definitely a once in a lifetime <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">experience</span>, as it is not that often we have this opportunity to say ´hello´to oneself and ask some hard questions like -´who the h... are you and what are you on about´?<br /><br />I have arrived safely in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Mansilla</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">de</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">los</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">Mule</span> (saddles for <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">donkies</span></span> I think it means) this morning fairly early, so I will give you an account of the last 24 hours or so.<br /><br /></span><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCZprV1AI/AAAAAAAAAIc/49V95uaBkLI/s1600-h/SL370788.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229455863270724610" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCZprV1AI/AAAAAAAAAIc/49V95uaBkLI/s200/SL370788.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">I went to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">Turismo</span></span> Office to ask what time and from where I could catch the bus. Bus, she said - we have no <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">buses</span> going from this town. I tried to explain that I had just arrived in one and that I knew it was continuing to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">Mansilla</span></span> and Leon - but no luck. She told me that I could try to ring the bus company, but she <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">didn</span></span>´t have the number. What service!! When I told <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">everyone</span> back at the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">aubergue</span></span> the story, they all laughed. By the way this is the third time the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">Turismo</span></span> office haven´t had a clue about the transport to and from the area in which they work. Quiet incredible.<br /><br />After this I ventured out in the village and believe it or not got lost <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">several</span> times in the small streets and paths. Using a map is fairly difficult as the villages are not made like a grid as we find it in Melbourne, but in and out - up and down - so one wonders where one is very quickly.<br /><br />I met up with a new group pf people late in the afternoon, so here goes.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">Guiseppe</span> came from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">Firenze</span> (Florence)</span> and spoke the most beautiful, melodic I<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">talian</span></span> I think I have ever heard. He worked in a bank but I am sure he could <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">have delivered</span> Hamlet in great style.<br />Marcus was 34 ye<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">ars</span></span> of age and came from Barcelona and a really great guy. He was going to meet his <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">girlfriend</span> in Leon and had walked 50 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">kilometers</span> a day to be there on time. ??? Finally his legs had enough and he decided to have a bit of a rest day yesterday and took the bus with me this morning. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">Isabella</span></span> came from Turin in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">nothern</span></span> Italy and spoke as quickly as anyone I have heard. She rode the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">Camino</span></span> on a bike and told us a funny story, that she had been lost on one of the highways, when a police helicopter had appeared above her, followed her for a while, before landing in front of her - all that just to show her the right way. (I am sure the police in no way are <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">associated</span></span> with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">Turismo</span></span> office - what do you think?) Then there was Bruno from Bremen in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">nothern</span></span> part of Germany. He <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">didn</span></span>´t say much - in fact I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">didn</span></span>´t find out that he was G<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">erman</span></span> until pretty late - but he was a terrific cook.<br /><br /></span><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCYrd6MBI/AAAAAAAAAIM/o9ma6CgH-i8/s1600-h/SL370809.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229455846571388946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJLCYrd6MBI/AAAAAAAAAIM/o9ma6CgH-i8/s200/SL370809.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">After this brief introduction to this group of people - once again just thrown together as part of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">Camino</span></span> - we occupied the kitchen and all together cooked a wonderful meal - a variety of pastas - some with tomatoes and garlic - others with tuna and olives - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">bruchetta</span></span> (don´t ask me about the spelling) with garlic, olive oil and tomatoes (there was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">definitely</span> and art to making this ) and a wonderful mixed salad. We all had a terrific time together and wished each other well for the journey ahead.<br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">Todays</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">stretch</span> would have been a tough walk for everyone. It was a hot day and the countryside was flat as a pancake - with no shade - no food - no villages and most importantly no water´- just a path <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">pointing</span> in the r<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">ight</span></span> direction. So much of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">Camino</span> in the Leon Region just <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">follows</span> the N121 highway - not the most reflective or comfortable environment to walk in.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">Mansella</span></span> is a busy town for the pilgrims as two different paths meet here - the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">Camino</span></span> Frances (which I am <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">following</span></span>) and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">Caldaza</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">de</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">los</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">Perigrinos</span></span> starting in the southern part of Spain - hence the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">albergue</span></span> here is a pretty busy place but with a wonderful warm atmosphere - mainly created by Bruno, (originally from Bonn in Germany) who has looked after this place for the past 12 years. It has all <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">facilities</span> including a delightful central patio where a large fig tree oversees the many wonderful meetings <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">between</span> people and wonderful conversations which take place here.<br /><br />I arrived here with a large group of French <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65"><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">peregrines</span></span> - so at the moment I don´t believe I will be involved in any sort of interesting conversation (people travelling in a group are fairly <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">difficult</span> to get in contact with as they tend to speak their native tongue all of the time). However a couple just arrived from Canada, so I´m sure I will be OK.<br /><br />I have already been investigating the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">Estacion</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">Autobusses</span></span> so I am ready to catch a bus around 10am tomorrow for my leg to Leon. However I am sure there will be yet another account from tonight, which I will relay sometime tomorrow. Until then - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">Bien</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">Camino</span></span>!<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Yes I was right again - I am not quite sure why something good always seems to happen out of the blue, when you least expect it. I did feel a little left out on a limb with the French <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">brigade</span> around me, so I had a siesta for an hour or so and then decided to go for a small walk. I ran into a guy from Belgium, who I had met the day before - a film maker from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">Brussells</span></span>, who had completed the Northern <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">Camino</span></span> along the sea last year and had then decided to do the French leg this year. We had a couple of Cafe con <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">Hielo</span> (not sure of the spelling, but must have pronounced it OK as she <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">didn</span>´t look like a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">questionmark</span> when I did the order) - a cup of strong coffee which you tip over in a glass filled with ice cubes - sort of an ice coffee. Quite nice on a hot S<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">panish</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">afternoon</span>.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Wandered back to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">albergue</span> and stopped to say hello to a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">Scottish</span> couple I had met briefly as they signed in to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">alburgue</span>. They were sitting having a drink with another man, who turned out to be from Montreal in Canada, where he had been a speech writer for a number of ministers in the C<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">anadian</span> government over a number of years. And that was the start to the most interesting, challenging, informed <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">discussion</span>, which I have experienced for a long, long time. His name was Claude <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">Leblond</span> and he had started his <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">Camino</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">Puy</span> - 450 kilometers into France - so he had already been part of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">Camino</span> quite a long way.<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Not <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">being</span> able to convey the conversation in a way possible on this blog, just let me take you through some of the topics we covered.<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">The Common Market or as he preferred to call it the European Community and its importance as a model for the world to follow. He was of the opinion that most people in Europe <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">didn</span>´t fully understand the importance or the vision of this political model, which in very few years, had changed the map of Europe - reconciled old <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">enemies</span> - not just in regard to cooperation but to become close partners in a number of important areas- such as having a common <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">monetary</span> policy, making the market much more stable. He also argued that the impact the union had had on lower performing economies which had seen enormous changes in countries such as Spain, Italy, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">Poland and</span>, raising the living standard in these countries considerably.<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Other interesting discussion points were:<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><ul><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The role of the press in world and local politics - the as he called it the Q&A <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">dimension</span> of the political machine - the number <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">of</span> civil servants <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">employed</span> to imagine questions or issues the press might run with and work on the possible answers needed .<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">India and China and how these emerging super powers might play out their new position in world politics and economy.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">The sexual revolution in the sixties and the impact on especially the male, who in many ways had lost his identity as a male as role models were hard to find.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;">We also spoke about the uniqueness of the conversations which seem to happen on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">Camino</span>. ´We are all travelling on the same passport, ¨( our <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">Camino</span> Credential) which in a unique way makes everyone belong and hence, somehow we all speak the same language.<br /></span></li></ul><p><span style="font-size:85%;">To give you a bit of a picture of what happens I will relay the following. This morning just woken up and sitting on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">bunk-bed</span>, rubbing eyes and looking at Marcus from Barcelona - he out the blue started talking about his girlfriend in Barcelona (single mother with two children) and the issues he had to work through and consider in this relationship, (at this point my feet haven´t even touched the ground). He continued to speak about how different the male and female roles are in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">Barcelona</span>, compared with the villages which we encounter on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">Camino</span>, where the social <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">structures</span> in many ways are as old as the village itself. He continued to reflect on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">nature</span> of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">Camino</span> - is the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_104">Camino</span> the way to live your life - simple and with not much baggage - or is it simply a way of reflecting on what is important in ones normal life and make changes ? I am sure you will agree - pretty deep thinking first thing in the morning - but then we all live the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_105">Camino</span> 24 hours a day and I often find myself waking up at 4am, reflecting on the conversations which have taken place - just to try to make sense of them and fit them into the whole <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_106">experience</span>.<br /></span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">We finished the evening with a meal cooked by the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_107">Scottish</span> couple - curry and rice - a real home cooked meal, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_108">which</span> was nice. So <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_109">surprise</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_110">surprise</span> - even in the presence of a French <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_111">invasion</span>, I ended up having a pretty special evening - once again!<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span></div><p><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpFI5I_0I/AAAAAAAAAHs/-aok_lS6b1M/s1600-h/SL370836.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229146548105445186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpFI5I_0I/AAAAAAAAAHs/-aok_lS6b1M/s200/SL370836.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Got the bus to Leon and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_112">wasn</span>´t that sorry for not walking today, as the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_113">Camino</span> on a whole followed the highway and had a pretty <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_114">long</span> stretch of walking through the suburbs before reaching the old part of the city, where the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_115">arbergue</span> is to be found. It is part of the Benedictine Order (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_116">monastero</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_117">de</span> la <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_118">Benedictinas</span>) and houses approx. 45 nuns, who <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_119">look</span> after the place with much love and care.</span></p><div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Leon was at one time a Roman military garrison and base for its <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_120">VIIth</span> legion - hence the name Leon derived from Legion. Much of the city is still surrounded by the old defence system in the form of a wall - quite impressive and one can easily imagine soldiers <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_121">being</span> placed high on the wall in between the openings - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_122">there</span> must have been some great battles taking place in this area.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">When <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_123">ar</span><span class="blsp-spelling-error">ri</span></span><a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpDglRF9I/AAAAAAAAAHU/TUGtk87VEnY/s1600-h/SL370845.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229146520104802258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpDglRF9I/AAAAAAAAAHU/TUGtk87VEnY/s200/SL370845.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_124">ving</span> in a large city sightseeing is of course on the agenda, and the first thing to see in Leon is of course the famous <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_125">Cathedral</span> Santa Marie with more than 125 beautiful stained glass windows, depicting various stories from the bible - an important way of teaching the gospel stories to people, who <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_126">couldn</span>´t read or write. Although it is a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_127">beautiful</span> church, I find the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_128">Benectine</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_129">Chapel</span> much easier to find stillness in - these big impressive cathedrals are far too busy for me - gold and carvings everywhere - not in my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_130">opinion</span> a place for prayer and reflection.<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">During the afternoon I went to the local hospital to get yet another <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_131">opinion</span> regarding my knees. It was a most unpleasant <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_132">experience</span> as I sat in front of the doctor who spoke S<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_133">panish</span> and I spoke English (and never shall these two meet). I had asked a young Spanish boy to write an account of my health in English, just to help paint the pictute for the doctor - but she was and remained quite disinterested, so in the end I just stood up (making sure she could see how much agony I was in ) and simply left - I must admit, with a rather low spirit.<br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">In the evening I went to the Vespers in the convent chappel, followed by Mass. The Vespers were different to the ones I had experienced in Carrion de los Condes, but equally as beautiful - the ´lead singer´for a better word, was a frail 75 year old nun, who sang with the clearest, strongest voice I have heard for a long time (I know my family will laugh when I compared it with Enja´s voice - but it was a pure and beautiful). The mass which followed was concelebrated by 3 young priests from France and was a wonderful celebration as well. The Spanish priest, although I couldn´t understand him, was a great orator and I was quite facinated just listening to him as he delivered the homily.</span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpDAyquzI/AAAAAAAAAHM/i-6YC3EZZEY/s1600-h/SL370859.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229146511571073842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGpDAyquzI/AAAAAAAAAHM/i-6YC3EZZEY/s200/SL370859.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">The evening finished by Claude and I going to a restaurant a class up from our normal pilgrims meals, and we really enjoyed it. I had (once again fresh asparagus) followed by salmon baked in pastry - a real nice combination and one I will try at home. Speaking about the cuisine - changes are taking place as we move across the Spanish continent. Here in Leon we are being introduced to more fish and seafood in general and yesterday when I had a cold beer, they gave some calimari to go with it. (I promise I will try it before coming back to Australia, but I am still building up courage). So even a day when I did feel a little low, it ended up being another good day, spent with celebrations, reflections and good friends.<br /></span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">On this last day in July, I decided to spend another day in Leon and have moved into Hostel Albany, just across from the cathedral - not a bad place. When leaving the albergue this morning I overheard another pilgrim saying that he was on the way to Leon central Hospital, where his wife had been admitted and had had an operation. I decided to go with him in the hope that this most important hospital in Leon at least would have a look at me. It took almost 45 mnute to get there by bus, but I found it and I must say, that despite of the language difficulties, everyone did their very best and we all had a few laughs along the way. I saw a doctor, had x-rays taken and was </span><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGrnXoXc0I/AAAAAAAAAH0/KivYzxMzmhQ/s1600-h/SL370862.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229149335200428866" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJGrnXoXc0I/AAAAAAAAAH0/KivYzxMzmhQ/s200/SL370862.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">hapy that at last my problem was looked into. The diagnosis didn´t suprise me - acute tentanidis of both knees and NO MORE WALKING ON THE CAMINO. At least I know now and can in my mind prepare the rest of my camino with the help of the Spanish bus companies. I am ademant that despite this set back, I will continue to get the best possible experiences from my CAMINO, and NO WALKING ain´t going to spoil that. I suppose there is still that quiet voice in my head that taunts me regarding being in control. I was going to do this walk - I prepared the best I could and nothing was going to stop me. I guess the Camino had the last say as so many people expereince either in a physical, emotional or spiritual way. The faces you meet on the way tell their own story - from a deep joy and peace to deep pain.<br /></span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Spoke briefly with Laraine to tell her of the result and to speak with her about her last day at TCF - a big change in her life - a closure as well as a new beginning. Was great to hear her voice and I can´t wait to see her on the 21st August.<br /></span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">L</span><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROpY8sXoI/AAAAAAAAAI0/qC9EYlhT1V0/s1600-h/SL370917.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229891540262608514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROpY8sXoI/AAAAAAAAAI0/qC9EYlhT1V0/s200/SL370917.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">ast evening I was suprised to catch up with a number of friends from Sahagun, who just came strolling past me as they came to see the cathedral. It is almost like seeing family - quite a unique experience. Stories are told, lots of laughts and the introduction of new pilgrims who have joined the group along the way. Guiseppe was there and they told him that despite not undertanding a word, I was in great awe of the way he spoke the Italian language. Lots of laughing at that one! I hope I will catch up with this group again in a couple of days as they are all good fun to be with.</span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">This morning, Friday the first of August, I will go to the Estacion Autobusses and inquire of the possibilities to move along the Camino in not too many large steps. I think I will be OK for a couple of days. After that I am not sure, as the Camino then enters the Galician Mountains and the highest point on route - almost 1600 meters or almost 5000 feet - a part of the journey which evidently is very beautiful and one I so would have loved to expereince. However I am hopeful that I will continue to put the Spanish bus companies to the test and find a way to crawl along.</span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;">I continued along the journey and arrived at Valladongos del Paramo, a small village which you </span><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROqWfZ27I/AAAAAAAAAJE/8VCF79SSOq4/s1600-h/SL370920.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229891556782758834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROqWfZ27I/AAAAAAAAAJE/8VCF79SSOq4/s200/SL370920.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">reach if you walk the alternative route of today´s leg. The albergue was easy to find as it was placed as you arrive in the village. Not particularly great but a bed for the night and a chance to catch up yet again with a few friends from the Camino and relax the parts of the body which need a little tender love and care. A local podiatrist visited the albergue late in the afternoon and she was very popular indeed - not for her looks but obviously she had some skills which came in very handy on this part of the journey.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">We were a small group who decided to cook dinner together as it both much cheaper as well as </span><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROp5hzAgI/AAAAAAAAAI8/Sqr756o3tM4/s1600-h/SL370922.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229891549008167426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROp5hzAgI/AAAAAAAAAI8/Sqr756o3tM4/s200/SL370922.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">a lot of fun. Guiseppe was the main chef suggested a pasta with zuchini and bacon, so away we went shopping for the ingredients - easy you might think - but you are not in Spain with a young girl behind the counter, who only speaks Spanish. Can you imagine the circus trying to explain that we wanted zuchini and we intertained the whole shop in the process. At last she left the shop and came back with two large zuchinis - you can imagine the uproar and everyone clapped. What a spectacle. However the dinner went well and was delicious and was enjoyed by all.</span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">I met a spanish lawyer from Barcelona called Stephanie, who spoke English very well and promised to help me look at the internet and find out when the bus would depart the following morning. After much searching we, or rather she, worked out that the bus would be there at 9.50 and 10.50. So this morning I ventured to the bus stop in plenty of time and stood in the sun waiting...and waiting ... and waiting and for some unknown reason got a bit hot under the collar. </span><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROoP_N1DI/AAAAAAAAAIk/onsCHkG4fEk/s1600-h/SL370944.JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229891520677401650" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROoP_N1DI/AAAAAAAAAIk/onsCHkG4fEk/s200/SL370944.JPG" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">What is it with bus timetables in this country? It finally arrived at 10.33 so on I went to a place called Hospital De Orbigo, a journey of only 15 kilometers. However, it is the most wonderful albergue I have booked in to - a real home away from home. The feeling one gets in the various albergues are quite different and very much dependent on the hospitaliers, who are running the places. However, I know I will be very comfortable here tonight. The place is full of artwork as one of the things they do here is to give everyone some paint and ask them to make a painting of their impression from the Camino - not a bad idea and judging from the many paintings around the place, some peregines are quite impressive artists. As I sit writing this blog I am listening to a CD with Danish - yes Danish songs and artists - no wonder I feel at home.</span></p><div><span style="font-size:85%;">A couple of German girls told me that they passed a swimming pool on the way into the village, so I think that´s where I will where I will spend the afternoon - not due to the girls but a big swim would just be wonderful and help loosen up those sore muscles.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">And that was excactly what happened. The pool like everything in the afternoon pretty much deserted put what a wonderfuñ facilñity in such a small community. Fiurst of all I had to borrow a normal size towel to take with me and when I arrived at the pool I was told that I needed a bathing cap, if I wished to swim. A little charm and they girls gave me one to loan for the day. Diving in to the pool gave me a bit of a fright being used to heated pools in Australia - this was definitly not heated and it reminded me of the pool in Darwin - the water ice cold despite the hot temperatures during both the day and the night - a bit of a mystery but never mind that. </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">I had a very interesting conversation with the girls who both came from Potzsam near Berlin in the old East Germany. They told me that even thought they had lived in a united Germany almost all of their lives, they were, due their upbringing<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229891526265453522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SJROokzgu9I/AAAAAAAAAIs/G8OoY685bXE/s200/SL370937.JPG" border="0" />, diffrest from young people from the west. Otherwise they seemed to think that the nification of Germany had been successful and gave everyone a better chance for a good life.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">When I returned to the albergue I had a wonderful Regina who came freom Brasil amd work at the albergue fro a few weeks, gave me a wonderful massage, which was what the old body needed. Did I enjoy it - you bet!</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">In the morning we all shared breakfast before setting off on the days walk and I caught up for probably the last time with this group of lovely people, who have been part of my Camino for the last 3-4 days. Once again saying goodbye is never easy but we wished each other a Bien Camino and off they went.</span></div><p><span style="font-size:85%;">What a fabulous way of finishing this third week of my Camino. I just sent a sms message to Ally and wished her a wonderful birthday - it gives a real good feeling to think of everyone back home - I am a very blessed man with such a wonderful family and so many good friends - I think this is a very important reason why I am able to have such a great Camino. Thanks guys and seeing Astorga tomorrow as the start of the week 4.</span></p>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-9489619537597675562008-07-20T05:18:00.000-07:002008-07-28T06:56:48.980-07:00Week 3 Najera through to Burgos and beoynd<div><br /><br />It was with some sort of heavy heart that I this morning decided to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">catch</span> the bus for my next leg of the journey, simply realising that I am not in any condition to walk the distance required. I <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">deciphered</span> the bus time table and caught the bus to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Burgos</span></span> at 11.30am on this Sunday morning.I purchased a ticket to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Santo</span></span> Domingo De <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Calzada</span></span> (what an impressive name) for just under $2 and arrived within 15 minutes - imagine that´s a 4to 5 hours walk. But of course where was the stillness, the feeling of freedom - and time to let the thoughts or feelings or whatever slowly come to the surface as you move through the landscape?<br /><br />However the driving can´t be helped at the moment so I had better learn to put up with it and not feel guilty in any way that this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Camino</span></span> of mine, somehow is not <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">authentic</span>.<br /><br />Santa Domingo also has its own historical legend, so fasten your <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">seatbelt</span></span> and listen closely - this is a beauty:<br /><br />Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn here on the way to Santiago. The pretty inn keeper´s daughter had an eye for the handsome lad, but the devout young fellow <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">thwarted</span> her advances. Incensed by his refusal she hid a silver goblet in his backpack and reported for stealing it. (We are not that far from Egypt and Joseph and his brothers) The lad was convicted for stealing and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">condemned</span> to hang. To make a long story at least a little bit shorter, the parents came back to the scene to their son and found him still alive in the gallows. Hurrying to the sheriff´s house they asked to get him cut down, but the sheriff was eating his chicken dinner. When he <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">didn</span></span>´t <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">believe</span> that the lad was alive, the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">chicken</span> (the one on his plate) suddenly came to life and the rest is a up to you to imagine.<br /><br />However more to the fact <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Santo</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Domenico</span> was born in a village not far from here and devoted his life to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">maki</span></span><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINhOmaW_5I/AAAAAAAAAE8/B4AkIMPzGTU/s1600-h/SL370605.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225126896137076626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINhOmaW_5I/AAAAAAAAAE8/B4AkIMPzGTU/s200/SL370605.JPG" border="0" /></a><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">ng</span></span> the conditions for the pilgrims more secure and more comfortable. He built roads and bridges and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">many</span> of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">albergues</span></span> in the area. The particular one I am staying at tonight has accommodated pilgrims since 1540 and looking at the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">ceiling</span> and the rafters, I can´t help wonder what stories and what people have been under that very roof, seeking a safe and restful <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">place</span> for their weary bones. Would it have been peasant farmers doing a once in a lifetime pilgrimage, or a wealthy nobleman or <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">mazbe</span> it would have been a monk from a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">monastry</span> somewhere in Europe or maybe even one of the famous knights, defending the pilgrims during their often dangerous journey.<br /><br />An Irish woman I met in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Najara</span> said something <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">strage</span> to me as we sad and spoke during a lazy afternoon. At least it took a while for the penny to drop - but maybe what she said had some truth in it. She wondered if she had been on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Camino</span> before - or at least part of her. She went on the say that her genes has been transferred from one generation to the next almost <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">un</span>-altered and she might have certain genes in her make-up today in 2008, who have been on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Camino</span> before. Did it take a little while for the penny to drop for you too or does one have to be Irish?<br /><br />One can´t help get in touch with the history of this place and you might wonder how important the previous legend of the chicken is to this place until you discover that even at the back of the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Cathedral</span> is a chicken coop with real live foul. And I mean inside high up on an altar. I went to mass there last evening. I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">dont</span> know if it was a special mass or just a normal Sunday evening mass, but when I arrived they were in the middle of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">Litiny</span> of the Saints and although I listen to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">spenaish</span> response for - pray for us - I never seem to get it, as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">everz</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">sooften</span> the cock would crow <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">loundly</span>, to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">everyones</span> delight. Such is the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">realitx</span> of Santa Dominga - God bless him.<br /><br />Tomorrow morning I will have to brave the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">Estation</span></span> again and try to work out the time table. I´ll try to reach <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">Belorado</span></span> approx,. 25 km. walk away. (You see I still measure distances in kilometers walked - not <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">following</span> the busy N-120).<br /><br />I am now moving from La <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">Rioja</span> to the Province of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">Castilla</span> Y Leon, the largest province in Spain and in particular to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">Provinca</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">de</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">Burgos</span>. I will spend the next week or even more in this province and hope to be able to experience the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">Meseta</span> - the plain situated at an altitude of almost 900 m or 2700 feet, covering a large part of this area. It is flat, covered with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">maily</span> wheat fields as far as the eye can reach, with nothing to distract you or your thoughts - no trees - no undulation in the landscape - no shade - just flat reaching for the horizon 360 degrees around. I really <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">dont</span> want to miss this and will do <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">enything</span> in my power to at least do a little walking.<br /><br />Arriving at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">Belorado</span> this morning I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">vertually</span> ran into Ivan - the nice guy from Slovakia. What a great surprise and what a great smile to say hello. Who knows, I might be able to catch up with him in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">Burgos</span>? I wonder what he has been doing, while I have been off the road during last week. Maybe I will find out later?<br /><br />On arriving, I ran straight into a market -probably the weekly market here in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">Belorado</span>. Apart from clothes, they didn't have much interesting stuff. I was particularly interested in food stuff - maybe some live <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">octupus</span> - tripe hanging from meat hooks or other <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">spanish</span> delicacies. However they did have salted hake and a great variety of delicious olives, of which I bought a few.<br /><br />T<a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb519PRNjI/AAAAAAAAAGU/3YYfdX0dl3o/s1600-h/SL370616.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226139122977027634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb519PRNjI/AAAAAAAAAGU/3YYfdX0dl3o/s200/SL370616.JPG" border="0" /></a>he <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">aubergue</span> which I am staying at is particular beautiful - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">Cuatro</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">Cantones</span> is the name - even with a pool in the back. A pity the weather has been overcast the last couple of days and rather chilly - or yes - it at least feels a bit chilly and I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">dont</span> have a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">jumber</span> to wear. Such is life! The first person I ran in to was Bradley, a chef from Perth, normally working the oil rigs in the Indian Ocean. He had sustained a very nasty injury to his left foot, leaving him with a very bad infection.(what is it about those Australians?) Can you find me in the chair?<br /><br />I will spend the afternoon lazily wondering around the village and see what it has to offer. The church of Santa Maria should have a particularly beautiful altar piece, so I will go and have a look. Ferdinand from Brazil is running this place and is a wonderful and charming man. He is an architect who has walked the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">Camino</span> three times and now is <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">voluntering</span> his service here for 12 months -gratis I might add. I tell you this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">Camnio</span> has the power of changing people in pretty drastic and lasting ways.<br /><br />What I did end up doing was have a swim in the pool. The sun appeared and gave new life to my old bones. Writing this at 7.45 pm it seems (I might be dreaming) that my knees have improved a little, so we have to see what tomorrow brings. For dinner I cooked a spiced spaghetti which was quite nice. I have decided for sure that I will be going to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">Burgos</span> tomorrow and find a private hostel for a couple of days, with my own bed, my own bathroom and my own space. Just a little self preservation and return to normal human conditions, void of the various noises 30 people <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">sleeeping</span> together make in the dark of night. (please don't imagine)<br /><br /><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb52V5zgQI/AAAAAAAAAGc/f3rjqR-e7YU/s1600-h/SL370626.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226139129597886722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb52V5zgQI/AAAAAAAAAGc/f3rjqR-e7YU/s200/SL370626.JPG" border="0" /></a>Caught the bus from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">Balorado</span> around 10.30 (only 15 min late which is not bad at all) and had an enjoyable ride to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">Burgos</span>. The walk from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">Balorado</span> would have been quite a tough one as the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">Camino</span> trail crosses a few ¨mountains¨ I guess similar to Mt <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">Dandenong</span>, which I am sure you will agree, can be quite a challenge for the ordinary Sunday walker. At <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">Villafranca</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">Montes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">de</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">Oca</span>, the path <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">climbes</span> through vegetation of oak and pine and was in previous days, one of the most dangerous spots for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">perigrinos</span>, as they often were ambushed by less desirable people. However, today, these hills provide a welcome cover from the sun and some stunning views.<br /><br />Approaching <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">Burgos</span>, I was happy to sit in a comfortable bus, as the walkers had a hard and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">labourous</span> journey through a large industrial part of the city, something none have experienced for quite a few weeks. The noise and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65">polution</span> strikes one when one has been removed from that kind of industrial environment for quite a time.<br /><br />An added pressure for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">Camino</span> in this industrial part of Spain, is that the developments have gone ahead, with very little consideration to these old paths, trodden by so many people during the centuries. and provided the economic foundation for many of these local small communities. Hence, artificial and one might say, commercial paths have been constructed, which in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67">mnay</span> cases follows the N-120 highway with the never ending roar of huge trucks which definitely is the preferred mode of transport in this country not the best environment for reflective thinking.<br /><br />But, let me introduce you to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68">Burgos</span>, which is no doubt an architectural treasure, with monuments and buildings so very beautiful. After settling in to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69">Jacobeo</span> Hotel in the centre of the city, enjoying my own room for what seems a very long time, and an hour long hot, hot shower (what decadence) I ventured as my first stop to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70">Burgos</span> Cathedral, which towers over the city. This cathedral, De Santa Maria, is the second largest of Spain´s many <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">cathederals</span> and a Gothic masterpiece, although many famous architects during the centuries have added their <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72">particilar</span> skills and vision.<br /><br />It was commenced around year 1000, by Count Rodrigo Dias - a guy I need to introduce to you in a little more detail, as he is the legendary son of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73">Burgos</span>. He was born in 1040 and without making this story into some kind of thesis, he became a military leader for King Ferdinand I. He was a very feared military leader and was given a name from the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">muslims</span> - El Cid. (I know when you read this name, you´ll expect John Wayne to appear from right of the screen, especially when you hear the next part of the story) El Cid had a famous horse <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">Babienca</span>, just as heroes are supposed to have. El Cid and his wife are both <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">burried</span> in the cathedral.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226139133429111826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb52kLPXBI/AAAAAAAAAGk/KeNvY5R9KZk/s200/SL370669.JPG" border="0" />Anyway I spent a couple of hours wondering thought the cathedral and was amazed by the beauty and treasures found here. It holds 22 different chapels, one more elaborate and stunning than the next, with intricate wood carvings, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">magnificant</span> paintings which takes your breath away. The feeling of history and the important role of the church throughout the formation of this country is something one almost can taste and feel, where ever one walks. (Sorry you have to turn your head to see the spires)<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb51lk2CwI/AAAAAAAAAGM/3gC3uGaDUJA/s1600-h/SL370676.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226139116625070850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIb51lk2CwI/AAAAAAAAAGM/3gC3uGaDUJA/s200/SL370676.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">Burgos</span> also seems to be a place where people who have travelled on and off for the first couple of weeks of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">Camino</span>, catch up, as one could see many groups having a good time, eating and drinking and enjoying each others company. As <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">ususal</span>, I had to find my own way and caught up with Bradley´s group and had a fun evening with them.<br />Just to remind everyone, that this is part of my Enrichment Leave, the guy in blue is a school principal from Belgium and the girl in yellow a secondary teacher from Idaho. Did we speak of educational matters - you bet!<br /><br />Today I will be going to the bus company and inquire into the possibilities to experience the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">Meseta</span> - where I can be taken to and picked up from again. So many of the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">peregrines</span> choose to take the bus from here to Leon, as they think they will find the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">Mesada</span> boring or maybe too challenging. However, I have really looked forward to experience the uniqueness of this landscape and I will do anything in my power just to do that. </div><br /><div>However Brad and I had some hours to ill <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">before</span> the bus left, so Brad went to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">internet</span> cafe <a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7mNFJfkI/AAAAAAAAAG8/nfhZaX4wc0s/s1600-h/SL370695.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226915107560848962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7mNFJfkI/AAAAAAAAAG8/nfhZaX4wc0s/s200/SL370695.JPG" border="0" /></a>and I hung around, playing tourist, without moving too much around. I <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">placed</span> myself in a strategic spot and watched the world go by in the form of newly arriving tourist and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">perigrinos</span>. Early in the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">afternoon</span> I spotted a long row of what we in Australia use as wedding marques and I could hear this fabulous South American music playing. I went closer and it turned out to be an <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">exhibition</span> of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">Ceramica</span> - an annual <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">exhibition</span> of work from artists and potters from all over Spain. It was just beautiful work and how I wished that I would be able to purchase a piece and bring it back to Australia. I told one of the artists that I just loved her work but <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">couldn</span>´t bring it with me. No <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">problema</span>! No <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">problema</span>! she said and took out some bubble wrap. However when I <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">gestured</span> that I only carried a backpack she understood and I had to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">leave</span> empty handed. However once again I had to admit that having to stay for longer in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">Burgos</span> had once again provided me with a pretty special opportunity to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">experience</span> something special and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">beautiful</span>.<br /></div><br /><div>However the bus departure time arrived and Brad and I decided to ask the bus driver if he would let us off in the middle of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">Meseta</span>, so we could <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">experience</span> this unique landscape. He agreed and promised us that the next bus would pick us up 3 hours later. We believed him and off we went. As he stopped in the middle of nowhere and we got off, all the other passengers clapped us - not sure why?</div><br /><div>I<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7linVXEI/AAAAAAAAAG0/ksBhwtZYPHs/s1600-h/SL370712.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226915096161508418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7linVXEI/AAAAAAAAAG0/ksBhwtZYPHs/s200/SL370712.JPG" border="0" /></a> have for most of my life been very interested in astronomy and as part of this study, I am very aware of the ´Great Circle´- the ability to see the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">horizon</span> 360 degrees <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">uninterrupted</span>. Normally this can only be done at sea but that is what one almost could see from the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_104">Meseta</span> - an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_105">uninterrupted</span> view of the horizon all the way around. The difference of course <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_106">being</span>, that the sea of blue the sailors would watch was here replaced by an equally beautiful golden color of the wheat fields, changing from almost white to a deep golden color as the wind played with the straw. What an experience and no doubt a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_107">CAMINO</span> MOMENT. The silence was complete apart from the birds and one definitely experienced an almost eerie feeling of being apart from everything.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_108">Burgos</span> is obviously a center for the mass production of wheat, oats and barley - however Brad and I both remarked, that no silos were to be found anywhere, so we were a bit at a loss as the how they dry, transport and keep the grain. We also agreed that this landscape would be very foreign for most people from Europe as they have never seen the expanse of wheat fields, which we see many places in Australia.<br /><br />It was lucky that we could trust the bus driver as the next bus did stop and took us on board. We then continued our journey to a village named <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_109">Castrojeriz</span> - a sleepy hollow now , but evidently in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_110">firing</span> line when the fighting took place between the Christians and the Moors during the dark past. The village is formed as a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_111">semi</span>-circle, wrapped around a hill with a fortress on top, and has approx. 1000 people living in it. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_112">albergue</span> we stayed in was San <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_113">Estaban</span> and is a Mother Therese House - very simple with approx. 20 beds, toilets and showers - that´s all! It has been quite interesting that in the last three <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_114">alburgues</span> they haven´t charged a set fee - just asked for a donation. Otherwise the going rate for a night is between 5 - 7 Euros - 7.50 to 10 Australian dollars - not bad!</div><br /><div></div><a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7mQKqdTI/AAAAAAAAAHE/N0-J5z-xP0g/s1600-h/SL370722.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5226915108389287218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SIm7mQKqdTI/AAAAAAAAAHE/N0-J5z-xP0g/s200/SL370722.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Brad and I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_115">perigrino</span> dinner last night as he decided to walk again today. Another farewell! I had lovely fresh asparagus with garlic butter and a mixed salad, a very tasty beef stew and vanilla cream for desert. All up 10 Aussie dollars - a special deal for <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_116">perigrinos</span>.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><div>At the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_117">albergue</span> I met briefly a woman from the West Indies. Her name was Pia-Lise <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_118">Frederiksen</span> - one can not find a more Danish n<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_119">ame</span> than that. Without a little <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_120">knowledge</span> of the history of these wonderful islands, one <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_121">wouldn</span>´t know that they in fact were a Danish colony for many years, and as such many people even today have Danish names. ( If I remember right I think we did introduce cricket or maybe it was Danish rounders - can´t quite remember)</div><br /><div>This afternoon I will be leaving Castrojeriz and continue to Fromista and once again move province - this time from the Province of Burgos to the Province of Palencia. As I will arrive rather late - a) I hope I will be able to find the albergue and b) that they still have a bed for me. A third option is that no bus will come this way as today is July 25th - the feastday of St. James - and not only the biggst and most important feastday in Santiago but in many parts of Spain - hence if it is a public holiday in the bus company - no bus and I´ll have to return to the alburgue and try again tomorrow. However I do hope the bus will arive as I have seen whatever I want to see in this village. </div><div></div><div></div><div>As I said the feast in Santiago today will be quite something - I am very happy I´m not in Satiago itself, as it will be an absolute circus. The swinging of the giant incense burner, Botafumeriro, which originally was used to fumigate the sweaty ( and possibly disease ridden) pilgrims, has today become a famous part of the daily Pilgrims Mass in that city. The ritual requires the help of half a dozen priests - Tiraboleiros - to control it, swinging in a huge arch across the congregation. </div><div></div><div>Supprise, supprise. I was going to leave this afternnon and yes the bus did run. However efter waiting fo the bus for almost 12 hours (there is anly so much you can do for 12 hours in a small village) I went down and waiting at the side of the road for the bus to arrive. It did arrive right on time, but unfortunately I was standing on the wrong side of the road and the bus sailed right past me, with a smiling bus driver atthe wheel. What did I feel and what did I mutter - no wrong -what did I call out loud and clear! Can´t tell you but I wasn´t a happy chappy. However I truddled back upthe hill and dicided to at least have a chance of venue and went to the other arbergue where a young italian couple calmed me down and told me the Camino was all about learning to let go and just be. As I explained it was the feastday of St. James and customary all albergues cook a special meal on this feastday for all the perigrinos. At my ´home´we were served garlic soup with fresh bread and salad and a wonderful almond cake for desert. A good meal with good friends - what more can one want. Once again it was a mixed groupof people around the dinner table - a professor in histology and his son from Valencia walking the Camino together as well as the yound italian couple - both attending the university in Turin. After dinner we all decided to sit in the garden and enjoy the stars -something we normally can´t do on the Camino as we all go to sleep at 10pm, while it is still light.</div><div></div><div>The next day I had to wait for the bus until 2.30 and this time I caught it all right and off I went to Fromista. One of the most important building in Fromista is surprise, surprise the church. Iglesia se San Martin, reputedly one of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain. (I am becomming quite an expert on the various building and architectual style throughout the centuries). As well as this church Fromosta has also been home to a number of pilgrim hospitals in the past - evidence of the importance part this city has played for the Camino.</div><div></div><div>However arriving at Fromista an other supprise was in waiting as I leaned that I just had arrived at the ned of the world - at least transport wise. No buses to take me further on my Camino and no buses anywhere the next day as it was Sunday and the world stands still on Sundays here in Spain. Not knowing what to do I decided that something was going to happen to help me out, so I tried just to relax and enjoy the day. Over the perigrino dinner that evening, I met an english truckdriver who was a littleunder the weather. However he told me that he would be able to give me a lift the next morning and we decided to meet at 7am. I have to be honest with you that I reallydidn´t think he would be ther - but I was wrong and off we went.</div><div></div><div>By the way the dinner was full of supprises as well. I ordered Ministoni - expecting a soup. Instead I got served a plate of vegies, at least 2 - 3 days old and stuck in the microwave for a couple of minutes. Not a good start. However the salmon served next made up for the rather bad start I ended up enjoying the meal. This time we were connecting up with Kevin, an ameracan university lecturer, working in Dubai - so at least we were able to talk a little about my Dubai expereinces, which I can assure you were quite different to his.</div><div></div><div>This sees the end of this week and I wonder what adventures I will expereince during this coming week.</div><div></div><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-35049576197951957352008-07-12T11:05:00.000-07:002008-07-20T15:48:38.061-07:00Week 2 From Logroña through the La Rioja Rigion - all the way to NajeraAfter a wonderful nights sleep, my knees taped up (even though I shaved what I thought to be the right place, I could still feel the tape tucking in the leftovers) I left for today's walk at 6.oo sharp. I have left my raincoat right on top in my backpack just in case the rain will appear. I am dreading what the paths will be like when wet - somehow I fear the wost, as most of them are clay and will increasingly be so as we move through this region - famous for the red clay earth sticking to the boots when wet, with some unknown force.<br /><br />I realised you haven´t heard from me for some time now. I haven´t been able to find an internet cafe until now when I have arrived in Najera. This is not so much an internet cafe - more a play centre for the youth in the city playing racing games. (Richard would just love this) However it is free of charge so who cares. I better tell you that this whole saga you are about to read about, I just lost completely somewhere in space between Spain and Australia - however used to set-backs who cares, so here we go again.<br /><br />At this time I have only walked 31km in a week - not much in a Camino one might be tempted to conclude. However I have already found out the hard way, that it is not the kilometers one walks that makes the Camino, but the impressions, the converstaions, the reflections this journey helps one to be able to do. Somehow the Camino clears one's interior and one is able to reach a much deeper and clearer state of mind. So here is my account of Week 2 - second round around.<br /><br />Staring out from Logroña Sunday morning, was a great feeling. It is hard to describe the feelings the mornings bring, the cool air, the silence and the smell of the still damp earth - being beween here and nowhere - not expected anywhere at any particular time and for that matter place. Something one has to get use to but I can tell you - it doesn´t take that long to take to it in.<br /><br />Walking amongst vines everywhere growing in this rich red clay soil full of stones. It must be a gr<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINfmxVNeYI/AAAAAAAAAEc/06RslVtKbyM/s1600-h/SL370508.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225125112361875842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINfmxVNeYI/AAAAAAAAAEc/06RslVtKbyM/s200/SL370508.JPG" border="0" /></a>ound which takes so much hard work to cultivate. The paths which I walk on are most likely work tracks used by the farmers, uneven and rough and also full of stones, making every step hard for both ankles and knees. And before long I am in trouble again, my knees hurt and half the trip I survive counting steps from 1 to 100, knowing that each step brings me a little closer to my next bed. Without my walking sticks to drive me forward I doubt I would have made it. However arriving in the village of Ventosa, 120 people, I was met at the front door of a brand new aubergue by Jytta, an Austrian ín´keeper or auberguerian (sounds a little like a purple vegie, doesn´t it)? and <a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpQW4MflI/AAAAAAAAAF0/AHdVLdv9k0g/s1600-h/SL370544.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225135722420010578" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpQW4MflI/AAAAAAAAAF0/AHdVLdv9k0g/s200/SL370544.JPG" border="0" /></a>Brian from Manchester, voluntering for a couple of weeks, before continuing his, what seems, never ending pilgrimage. However they both welcomed me with open arms and could see from my general appearance, that here was a fellow who needed a little TLC. <div></div><div>Brian even attended to my shoes, placing a wild flower on them to give them good karma.<br /></div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpPyNzQ-I/AAAAAAAAAFs/7uO_ExZoAcg/s1600-h/SL370542.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225135712578520034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpPyNzQ-I/AAAAAAAAAFs/7uO_ExZoAcg/s200/SL370542.JPG" border="0" /></a>That afternoon I met up with a wonderful young man from Slovakia, part of the old Check Republic, called Ivan (not the cruel) He was working in Switzerland at one of the universities and was very interested in discussing a variety of issues, from politics to religion. Sue Cahill would have been very proud of me discussing the Australian Catholic Church and the Passionist Community, as the Catholic Church in this part of the world, barely has passed Vatican II. That´s not quit true, but it is no doubt more traditional in so many ways. However as I said he was a delight to converse with and I almost forgot the state of my knees.<br /><br />When one stays over in the same albergue, one meets a new bunch of perigrinos every afternoon, arriving at the front door with sore feet or legs, red faces and exhausted looks. However it only takes a shower, a change of cloths and before long they appear almost like real humans, with a snack in one hand and a bottle of red in the other. What can one say?<br /><br />This second evening I met up with a medico from Boston, August was his name and that´s no joke and his Thai wife, and Charlotte their 10 your old daughter. We had a most pleasant evening together and I was invited to share in their vegetarian dinner, which I must say was delightful.<br /><br />The next morning I felt pretty miserable being stuck here. That was not what I had imagined the Camino to be like. Going through my cancer treatment I had never stopped believing that this Camino was possible and now I sat stuck here in a small village with a pair of bung knees, unable to continue my journey. That was not what a Camino was supposed to be like! Or was it? Was I sitting here to be forced to face that I no longer was in control - and maybe something called patience was a lesson which I had to learn. I don´t know, but maybe I will find the answer further on.</div><div><br />People I met were all concerned about my knees and tried to do this and that. Brian gave me Reike a couple of times a day (without much help - but it was his thoughtfulness and his willingness to give of himself that counted). However quite unexpectedly one of my CAMINO MOMENTS arrived early the next morning. A young woman from Switzerland asked if she could la<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINfoN5lEzI/AAAAAAAAAE0/rQMNmbpr47c/s1600-h/SL370543.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225125137210479410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINfoN5lEzI/AAAAAAAAAE0/rQMNmbpr47c/s200/SL370543.JPG" border="0" /></a>y her land on my knees and do an Indian blessing. What can one say but yes and close one's eyes - however once again nothing magical happened. About five minutes later I all of a sudden heard the most wonderful singing from the entry foyer, a woman playing guitar and singing (I found out later) an Indian song in Sanskrit - one of the earliest languages ever recorded. It was a very beautiful moment and everyone still present at the aubergue at this late time (it was 8am) were all very moved. My response - if it hadn´t been for my knees I would never had experienced this wonderful moment as I would had been gone at my usual 6am. A CAMINO MOMENT out of the blue and one which will stay with me for ever.<br /><br /><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpQrW5r8I/AAAAAAAAAF8/EmG763rRzUs/s1600-h/SL370559.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225135727917510594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpQrW5r8I/AAAAAAAAAF8/EmG763rRzUs/s200/SL370559.JPG" border="0" /></a>The French and German connection came the next evening as I caught up with a group of primary teachers - from Paris, from Cologne and from Hamburg. If ever anyone tells me that French people don´t at least try to speak English, they are wrong. We had the funniest evening together and ended up sharing a perigrino meal together. I had my first taste of paella ( I didn´t appreciate the seafood much) a dish of chicken wings and some peaches in some lovely wine. What more can one ask for. (all for $ 15)<br /><br />The next and my final day in this small community, Jytta had organised a visit to the doctor - the doctors only visit in the week. While waiting for our turn, listening to the many Spanish people waiting for their turn, she told me the political reality of this small community. In Australia we talk about drawing a line in the sand - in this community we might talk about a breadstick in the sand. You see, one can buy bread from either one of the elders in the village or buy your bread from the bread van, passing through the village once a day. Depending where you buy your bread, determines whether you are in or out in this small community of just 120 people. Quite amazing!!<br /><br />Decided it was time to try out my legs or rather knees again, both Jytta and Brian saw me off and wished me well. The walk to Najera was the shortest possible for the day and was approx. 11 km. It is hard to describe the feeling of once again be in the open. Walking through fields and fields of vine as far as one can see is quite a beautiful sight. The paths the Camino followed at this point were mostly rough farm tracks, eroded by the wind and the rain and full of loose stones, challenging the foothold all of the time. And yes it didn´t take long before the knees started to ache again - despite me taking all the care in the world to put my foot to the ground as gracious and light as a ballet dancer (just figurative language of course). My walking sticks propelled my legs forward one step at the time, my brain desperately trying to control them, without much success I might add. To illustrate the point, approx 5 kilometers before Najera, the Camino crosses the main highway and the traffic is fast without much of a chance to find a clearing between cars, trucks and buses. I knew I was in trouble and stood there absolutely petrified that I wasn´t going to make it. You see my brain would send a message to my legs to start moving, but that didn´t mean a thing. I would take at least 3 to 4 tries to get them to move and at that, they would move very gingerly and unsteady. However you can see I made it, but is was a real frightening experience, to be that much out of control (here I go again with being in control). </div><div></div><div>Arriving in Najera I looked straight away for the private arbergue as I knew I would need to stay for a few days - yet again. I found the owner of the arbergue in the bar Bodegon La Juderia and he agreed to accommodate me for that period. The arbergue as very simple indeed, nothing more than a room with 10 bunk beds, a toilet and a shower and that´s all folks. However it did have a bed, which for me that was the most important feature.<br /><br />Najera is another historical city, which one seems to find around every corner in this part of the world. In its former glory is was the capital of t<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpRAOG5xI/AAAAAAAAAGE/sxfnHvughh8/s1600-h/SL370596.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225135733517772562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINpRAOG5xI/AAAAAAAAAGE/sxfnHvughh8/s200/SL370596.JPG" border="0" /></a>he Kingdom of Navarre during the 11th and 12th centuries. Undoubtedly the most important building in the city is the Monasterio Santa de la Real, dating back to approx. year 1000. There is a reason for the monastery being here and the legend goes as follows:</div><div>In the year 1044 Don Garcia went out hunting in these lands and saw a partridge. He sent his falcon in pursuit after it and the two birds entered a cave. The king followed them in and deep inside the cave he saw the image of the Virgin Mary. The king later decided to build a monastery in honour of the virgin (one can still see the cave inside the church). Many royals are buried here as are many noble families from the area. As with these churches, the art work is stunning, with altars glittering of gold and with the most complex and beautiful carvings. I went to mass here and although the whole service was in Spanish, it was very moving and easy to follow - maybe apart from the homily.<br /><br />I have to tell you a little story about the tower of the monastery. On top one can see 12 storks - some adults and some young ones. Storks are very special birds for me, as in Denmark these birds are very rare and as children we read story books written about them as well as learned songs. I guess the fascination was that these birds would fly all the way the Africa and return year after year to the same nest and people actually waited for them to arrive year after year - and it was always front page news when it happened. However general urban development destroyed much of the wet land in Denmark and I believe there are only two pairs still nesting in that country. So here I walked around and all of a sudden hear the unmistakably sound the stork makes when feeding its young. Looking up I saw these majestic birds high above me - it was quite wonderful and brought back a lot of happy memories.<br /><br />Despite my limited movement, my days in Najara were real happy. I started in the morning visiting a special perigrino bistro near the river, where I would order my coffee (and they do know how to make a good cup of coffee in Spain) and a baccodillo with cheese and ham and then enjoy the early morning sun and watch people go about their business. Later in the morning I would find a bench on Plaza Españia and once again just watch life go by - the children playing - the old people meeting and having a cigar - just wonderful, when you have time just to sit an enjoy it.<br /><br />The second day there I was having a cold beer at lunch time, when I spotted a young couple organising their backpacks and having their lunch. I walked over and introduced myself and that was the start of a wonderful afternoon. You couldn´t have meet a nicer and more interesting couple. Ben came was Berlin and Maurice from the south of France and they were both actors, dancers as well as singers - working for a theatre company in Berlin. I told them about Laraine and her love for dancing and singing and everything crazy and how she would have loved to be part of our conversation.<br /><br />I am not sure why conversations are such an important part of the Camino and why people seem so unafraid to open up and talk about their life stories- sometimes very personal and emotional painful stories. I wonder if we all, as part of the Camino, have been forced to look deeper within our self and our life´s stories and loose our normal inhibition to share these deep personal stories with people we live and work with in our everyday life. Maybe having these chance meetings, lasting only for a few hours, provides somehow the right framework for these conversations to take place. I don´t know - but the wonderful things are that they happen and they are so very special every time. </div>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-90593217929084183632008-06-30T17:47:00.000-07:002008-07-20T10:35:10.915-07:00Arriving in Copenhagen<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0ul6LcqiI/AAAAAAAAABk/LoA5_SzX0As/s1600-h/SL370288.JPG"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0un67qIyI/AAAAAAAAAB8/wIs7vJ5sMYA/s1600-h/SL370318.JPG"></a><br /><p align="justify"><a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG3ob1lqI/AAAAAAAAAA8/dZBTXm9htr8/s1600-h/SL370252.JPG"></a></p><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SDo0gUUzHEI/AAAAAAAAAAc/aiJZhpmYax0/s1600-h/route.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204530049196432450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px" height="66" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SDo0gUUzHEI/AAAAAAAAAAc/aiJZhpmYax0/s200/route.jpg" width="244" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Hi everyone,<br /><br /><br />Arrived in Copenhagen after nearly 52 hours since 'take off' in Tullamarine - the longest journey ever. The extended time was all due to the flight engineers strike in Australia, which caused the flight to be two hours delayed, of course missing the connecting flight in Hong Kong. However Qantas did the right thing by the passengers, giving everyone a room in the Regal Airport Hotel, including breakfast. At least it gave me an opportunity to have a nice hot shower and sleep for a couple of hours before catching my new connecting flight with Finair, now traveling via Helsiki in Finland to Copenhagen. I was thrilled to have been in Finland and I read an excellent article in the inflight magazine on the Finnish school system and the reason why it has come out on top during the last decade. Easy - I will just forward it to the Minister of Education and whoops - Australia will be right up there with the best.<br /><br />Let me tell you a little of my travel companions on my flight. Andrew from Duneden was my first side-kick and it turned out that he and his wife had walked the Camino three years ago, so guess what our conversation was all about? I have to say that he was very envious so I took that as a positive as I face the next six weeks ordeal. My next companion was a Spaniard from Barcelona and as Spain was to be playing Germany in the European Cup Final the very next evening, guess what we talked about?<br /><br />Finally arriving in Copenhagen almost 10hrs late it took an eternity to get the baggage as it was the first day of the summer school holidays in Denmark and every man and his dog was travelling in and out of Kastrup Airport. However, lucky at last, my backpack arrived together with some other bits and pieces. Coming from Helsinki, I walked straight through the EU exit, with no passport control and a custom officer half asleep. Welcome home to the old motherland!<br /><br />However, my<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG3ob1lqI/AAAAAAAAAA8/dZBTXm9htr8/s1600-h/SL370252.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217709196102178466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG3ob1lqI/AAAAAAAAAA8/dZBTXm9htr8/s200/SL370252.JPG" border="0" /></a> dear sister, Birgith and Brother in Law Josep (also a Spaniard) were waiting to meet me (they had already been there 12 hours earlier) and great hugs were exchanged. We rushed home to Valby, I had a quick shower and off we went to Lisa's (my niece) birthday to meet the rest of rest of the family - Angelina (my youngest niece) and her husband Kenneth and her two children, Emilie and Helene. It is the changes in the children from one visit to the next which surprises me more than anything and it makes you realise just how much you are missing when living 20,000 kilometers apart. The adults don't seem to change that much, but it is a thrill to see them all every time I come back. Lisa made a wonderful dinner -a real Spanish feast - I am sure to help my digestive system ready for the next 6 week's onslaught. I am proud to say that I kept awake until 11pm, finally nodding off in the car on the way home.<br /><br />Sunday morning, believe it or not, I woke at 6am - sent a quick *I have arrived safely* text message to Laine, Karina and Steen, after which I went back to sleep again, only to awakened by the most Danish of Danish sounds - the church bells ringing for the 10am service. Wow! I am back in the old country - it wasn't a dream after all.<br /><br />No rest as we all are travelling to the forest north of Copenhagen called Dyrehaven - a wonderful forest established and kept by the Royal family for many years, when they fancied shooting a few deer. The fo<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG3K1-KfI/AAAAAAAAAA0/n45FnoV9R6I/s1600-h/SL370260.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217709188158728690" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG3K1-KfI/AAAAAAAAAA0/n45FnoV9R6I/s200/SL370260.JPG" border="0" /></a>rest also was the place of a wondrous 'healing spring' attracting people from the 1550's - don't ask me how they got out there without cars or trains, however they got there. Of course, in the old Denmark there are many ways one can be healed and so right back in those early days entertainers, circus acts of various kinds and of course a little drink (for the pain) became a common sight and since grew to a great and famous (infamous at times) fun and entertaining park called Bakken - where especially drunk Swedes feel at home. It this week celebrated its 450th birthday and had recreated a number of the 'old attractions' which were fun to look at. Pierrot on the picture is a pantomime figure loved by all children.<br />Sunday night at the very pleasant time of 8.30pm we then watched Spain finally win something in soccer and everyone across Europe sang Y Viva Espania.<br /><br />Monday- back to serious work as I walked for a full four hours with a full backpack. It was hard work<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG2qEE7_I/AAAAAAAAAAs/4BkAGRuoaDc/s1600-h/SL370261.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217709179359522802" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG2qEE7_I/AAAAAAAAAAs/4BkAGRuoaDc/s200/SL370261.JPG" border="0" /></a> and I certainly could feel it on arriving home. However it all went well and I had no blisters on my feet. I might be fitting in another long walk before I depart for Madrid on Friday.<br /><br />As you can see from the picture I even had my Nordic Walking Poles with me - I found them great to walk with.<br />In Europe, walking with these poles are very popular and you meet people with them everywhere.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><br /><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG4CGyPiI/AAAAAAAAABE/Y2P6bND2-II/s1600-h/SL370263.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217709202993200674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SGkG4CGyPiI/AAAAAAAAABE/Y2P6bND2-II/s200/SL370263.JPG" border="0" /></a>This picture is from one of my favorite places in the forest - a place I especially enjoyed in the winter when snow had just fallen. I use to live quite close to the forest and I often would walk out there in the middle of the night, after returning from cooking at Hotel D'Angleterre. So many great memories are surfacing when visiting these places from my youth and it is wonderful opportunity to re-visit and recall so many great experiences. </div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"></div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"></div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The week in Copenhagen continued with a wonderful day spent with my dear sister Birgith playing tourists. Looking at '<em>Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen' </em>from a tourist point of view, is quite interesting as one re-visits many old places with heaps of memories, not just from my own childh<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0ulC-CCHI/AAAAAAAAABc/8c9T_RpR9Qs/s1600-h/SL370287.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5218878757179361394" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0ulC-CCHI/AAAAAAAAABc/8c9T_RpR9Qs/s200/SL370287.JPG" border="0" /></a>ood and youth but now also able to understand and maybe appreciate the rich history of the place more. Copenhagen celebrated a few years ago its 800th birthday as a merchant city (name translated) and has over the years been able to keep and protect many of its old latin quarters. However since my last visit the city has now a brand new Opera House as well as Theater complex, leaving the old Royal Theater as a home for the famous danish ballet. Of course the day was not only filled with cultural pursuit and we did have our lunch at one of the famous danish sausage stands and a half of litre of cold draft Carlsberg beer as well. No bad I have to tell you.</div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"></div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">T<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0umHrqpsI/AAAAAAAAABs/zxS-0XRZUuY/s1600-h/SL370299.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5218878775624378050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0umHrqpsI/AAAAAAAAABs/zxS-0XRZUuY/s200/SL370299.JPG" border="0" /></a>hursday (where is the week going) I visited my very good and old friends Verner and Zanne, who live in a wonderful wooded part of Zeeland, (the island I am sitting on at the moment) north of Copenhagen. Verner picked my up and I was there all day, sharing breakfast with danish wienerbrød - eat your heart out - lovely lunch with herrings and the odd snaps or akvavit direct from the ice and delicious salmon for dinner. What I did just now is definitly a danish trait - outlining in great detail what one has been given as a meal - I guess once a dane always a dane!</div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"></div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">And today Friday, an almost perfect summers day, we ventured to the beautiful Tivili Gardens, samck bang in the middle of the city. This oase of beauty, tranqulity, fun and plenty of great food, one ne<a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0um_maXJI/AAAAAAAAAB0/VBN7-F567cU/s1600-h/SL370311.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5218878790634724498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG0um_maXJI/AAAAAAAAAB0/VBN7-F567cU/s200/SL370311.JPG" border="0" /></a>ver grows tired of. I have decided that it has changed a little and maybe has become a little more comercial during the last 10 or so years. But it is still one of my very favorite places in the world. Unfortunately we couldn't stay ontil dark, where the whole place transforms into a fairyland of lights, due to my early departure tomorrow - commencing my second leg of my journey - two days in Madrid, which you will hear about in my next instalment. I have to admit a few nerves are about but I guess that's part of my journey as well.</div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"></div><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">Special thanks to all of you who have written comments - keep them coming as they are all very special coming from you special friends. The time is now almost 10.30pm and the sky is colored a beautiful red as the suns set - these light evenings is something you never get tired of.<br /><br /></div><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SDoJzEUzHCI/AAAAAAAAAAM/4np3ElgyNIk/s1600-h/IMG_3826.JPG"></a>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-27107751404641646772008-07-07T03:50:00.000-07:002008-07-20T10:33:24.346-07:00Week 1 From Pamplona<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcQ7c_jEI/AAAAAAAAAD0/8S8g5JwpcE0/s1600-h/SL370377.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225121438586866754" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcQ7c_jEI/AAAAAAAAAD0/8S8g5JwpcE0/s200/SL370377.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />As I was arriving in Pamplona I ran smack into the opening of San Fermin - we call and know it in Australia as the Running of the Bull. Do these Spaniards know how to have a festa? - once again the city was full of people - this time dressed in white and red (I received a red scarf as well when I arrived) and thousands upon thousands filled the streets. I joined the fun at a park which I passed on my way and watched a big screen transmission of the opening. As the Mayor (or maybe even a member of the Royal family) opened the festa, everyone raised their red scarves in the air and OLE was heard from everyone. What a start to my camino!<br /><br /><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcRfc5n8I/AAAAAAAAAD8/btOQnei_dtM/s1600-h/SL370381.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225121448250154946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcRfc5n8I/AAAAAAAAAD8/btOQnei_dtM/s200/SL370381.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />These girls were almost running to make sure they didn´t miss out the official opening of the Fiesta. Everyone looked really lovely in their outfits, and especially the children were lovely.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Before I left home I had Google Mapped where I was going to walk and el presto it worked to a tee. I found Avenu<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcRmGzuNI/AAAAAAAAAEE/2Q5ClgNIBB4/s1600-h/SL370386.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225121450036541650" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcRmGzuNI/AAAAAAAAAEE/2Q5ClgNIBB4/s200/SL370386.JPG" border="0" /></a>e Hierro and I saw my very first Shell pointing the way to Santiago. What a feeling as I can tell you, up to that point, I had a few butterflies in my stomach, as to whether I ever was going to find my way. I followed the shells and finally arrived at my very first Albergue in Cizur Menor, west of Pamplona. I was welcomed by Fiorro, who stamped my passport for the very first time and showed me my bed for the night. I went in to kitchen and was met by a number of fellow Pilgrims, speaking in all sort of languages ( sounds a little like Petecost) - however someone gave me a plate of spaghetti and said welcome in what I think was Italien. I spent the afternoon with Jork from Germany, Maree from San Sebastian and Jesus from the southern part of Spain. Jork was a great help as he teaches spanish back home and he kept the conversation going all night translating from Spanish to English and back again. We had a terrific time.<br /><br />The following morning everyone was up early and I was on the road - my very first day on the track for a whole day - at 6<a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcR1JuJnI/AAAAAAAAAEM/djWTRa-4TwU/s1600-h/SL370396.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225121454075291250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINcR1JuJnI/AAAAAAAAAEM/djWTRa-4TwU/s200/SL370396.JPG" border="0" /></a>.15am. It was a wonderful morning, with the sun still hiding behind the mountains. This first days walk is not just an ordinary walk as we have to climb a pretty steep incline up to some windturbines and back down an even steeper hill with loose stones covering the entire track. Good for my ankles I guess. I kept a steady pace and was warned by Jork who passed me half way up the mountain to take it easy and to find my own pace. I finally got to Alto del Perdon and enjoyed a magnificent view back over Pamplona. The Nevarra Region of Spain is filled with golden corn fields where ever you look, rolling hills and patches of woodland. Very, very beautiful. Took a photo at the top of some statues of some struggling pilgrims. The right spot I must say.<br /><br />Started the downhill part and was that difficult. My ankles went over too many times to count and my legs got very tired and weary. However I pressed on and I walked through the prettiest villages, spread along the path - all going back to the middle ages with bridges built by the Romans and one church more beautiful than the next.<br /><br />Arrived at my next stopover at Puente La Reina at 12 noon (not bad for walking 20 km with 14 kg on my back (I can announce that my legs and feet are OK but my shoulders are killing me). Will go down and find some food and have a look around this old village.<br /><br />Tomorrow morning the next track will take me to Estella, which is big enough to find on a map. So far a wonderful experience, but you have to wait for photos. Hasta Luego<br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;color:#330033;">24 hours later I am sitting in a refugio in Estella, which used the be a hospital for the perigrinos during hundred of years - something to reflect on as I am sharing my room with 14 other people from all over the world.<br /><br />Once again I started this morning at 6,15am. The evening before we went to Mass or rather a Benediction in the church run by the order who also run the refugio. The church was build in 1100, with very bare interior but with an acoustic to die for. It was a celebration especially prepared for the pilgrims and a very moving part was when everyone were invited to wash the feet of a fellow pilgrim. The celebration was of course in Spanish but I was invited to read the Gospel in English.<br /><br />T<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINldIn00UI/AAAAAAAAAFc/Z15kMX7QAws/s1600-h/SL370431.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225131543885041986" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINldIn00UI/AAAAAAAAAFc/Z15kMX7QAws/s200/SL370431.JPG" border="0" /></a>oday's walk wasn´t as hilly as yesterdays, but still strenuous enough - on reflection maybe because it was my second walk in a row, something my legs are not use to as yet. Once again the country side was magnificent, today taking me past the first fields with vine as well as olives. This part of the trip also took me on some stretches of original Roman tracks as well as bridges - I can assure you not easy to walk on as one has to concentrate every second to avoid a busted angle. (I wonder how the roman soldiers did it?) However it is quite special once again to reflect on the people who have trodden these paths during the centuries - in peace, in war, making a little part of history for this region of the world.<br /><br />The small Spanish villages which we pass on our journey are quite delightful - so charming with houses looked after so very well and streets so clean and tidy. When we arrive the shops are usually closed as it is mid-morning, so the streets are deserted - so one can really get a close look at the houses and the streets.<br /><br />The people I meet are amazing, all with their own unique stories to tell as to why they are doing the Camino. Language difficulties are no hindrance for communicating and everyone are getting along, caring for each others blisters and bung knees</span> as well as communal meals.<br /><br />Today on the path I firstly met a couple from Norway - a mother and daughter - school secretary and teacher and we had a wonderful half hour or so when we joined the walking. We discussed multiple intelligences amongst other things, something she tried to introduce as part of her mathematics lessons. She had three children and she shared with me that her husband was looking after them, so <a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINlcqetSmI/AAAAAAAAAFU/QzEj04hHWy4/s1600-h/SL370418.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225131535793736290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINlcqetSmI/AAAAAAAAAFU/QzEj04hHWy4/s200/SL370418.JPG" border="0" /></a>she and her mum could make this camino together. Later on in the day I met two American young girls - one from Colorado and one from Minneapolis - once again we joined up for a little while and had some wonderful stories to share. These two girls became my saviours in the later part of today's journey as they caught up to me with approx. three kilometers to go and I was absolutely spent - with no more energy to find. Even the slightest hill became a mountain and the way down was even worse. Up they came and gave me the impetus to once again stride out and reach the refugio at approx. 12 noon. However as you can see from the photo, they too were tired after the days walk.<br /><br />Following my shower and my washing duties and even a phone call to Laraine and the writing of this blog, I will wonder to town and explore what it has to offer. (The beer is very good in this country and so are the bread sticks) I am toying up with the idea to stey at Estella for a bit of a rest day tomorrow, but will have to find accommodation elsewhere, as you only can stay one night at a refugio. By the way most refugios charge 5 Euros for a night, which is approx. $ 7.50 - not bad.<br /><br />My next two walks will be to Los Arcos 21.7 km and then on to Logrono 27.8 km then leaving the Region of Navarra before entering the famous vine region of Spain, La Rioja. Hasta Luego.<br /><br />This morning I left Estella at the usual 6.15am, but a surprise was in waiting, as the Refugio served breakfast for everyone before leaving for the day - hot coffee and toasted bread with jam. So everyone left well and nourished for the days walk.<br /><br />Last night I slept with a knee support as my right knee was a bit painful after yesterdays downhill stretches, which are much harder than any uphill stretches, especially as the path after are very rough under food and one as to pay attention to every step of the way - by the way that how one can overlook a sign post and walk to wrong way. However overall the signing has been great and one can expect a marker at most turns or on the footpaths as one walks through the villages.<br /><br />Due to my knee and the time frame which I am travelling by, I decided to only do a half days walk today and reached the village of Villamayor de Monjardin already at 8.45am - some kind of short day. Today I was very careful to slow down my pace from approx 4-5 km an hour to about 3km - what´s the hurry and I am feeling much better for it. I guess something one has to learn.<br /><br />A special moment arose at 6.45am as I passed the famous fountain, where one can drink red vine instead of the usual refreshing cold water. I did have a sip and yes it certainly was drinkable even at that early hour.<br />This village is located at 680 meters altitude and everywhere you look you are met with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. On the mountain top one can see an old castle and from a statue placed in the town square, one can read: Sancho Gardes, King of Pamplona, died there in 925 - a bit of history wherever one turns.<br /><br />The church is from 12th century and called San Andres and quite beautiful.<br /><br />The Albergue or refugio is a private hostel run by a Dutch Evangelical group and have 4 bedrooms with 6 beds in each - quite private compared with the previous nights accomodation. I am looking forward to this evening at the couple running the hostel are supplying what is called a pilgrim dinner - no doubt a fun evening with the other fellows perigrinos.<br /><br />As most of my friends which I have meet over the previous 3 days continued the full 22km walk for the day, I said my goodbyes and Buen Camino to them all. It´s a funny feeling to say goodbye to people you have only known for such a short while, but the camaraderie developed in this short time is quite unique. Hence by tomorrow I will be walking along with a new group of peregrinos and new opportunities for friendships and sharing.<br /><br />However let my take you tough a couple of what might be Camino moments (I guess they will start to arrive as I get able to open up to the now instead of worrying about all sorts of other things). Last evening at Villamayer del Monjardin I met a great group new fellow peregrinos from Spain, Ireland, USA, Austria, Italy, South Korea amongst many places (as you can gather we are a mixed bunch). There was a group of 4 Spanish doctors, three of them walking the Camino, whilst number four of the group drove a supply van, reaching the destination early in the afternoon, after which he proceeded to cook dinner for everyone. Despite no English at all I <a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINlb6o6MoI/AAAAAAAAAFM/9hglw2seMQY/s1600-h/SL370462.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225131522951623298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINlb6o6MoI/AAAAAAAAAFM/9hglw2seMQY/s200/SL370462.JPG" border="0" /></a>was invited to join the group and feasted with a wonderful cooked lamb dish with garlic, shallots, and many great vegetables all cooked together. Served with fresh bread and a red vine decanted in a Spanish bottle (you know the kind you hold up to your mouth) we all had a great time, speaking all sorts of languages. I of course had to try to drink to red and did very well until I had to stop and whoops red wine down my t-shirt. Do you think I could wash it off - no so now I have a permanent reminder of this fabulous evening. Later on we all sat quietly and listened to wonderful melodic guitar play from one of the volunteers working the Refugio, and I can hardy describe the wonderful peace filling everyone, as we listened to the music and looked over this wonderful countryside, from the top of the mountain. No-one wanted it to stop and we all went to bed far too late. By the way another volunteer was Birgitte from Denmark, so we had a long chat. She had been a volunteer for the past 3 months and will be going back to Denmark at the end of August. ( not too sure how one gets back to a normal life after having been in such beautiful and tranquil surrounding for that amount of time)<br /><br />Up again this morning and once again on the road on 6.15am after the Refugio served a wonderful breakfast to start the day. I decided to walk a little shorter that the rest of the group and am sitting in Torres del Rio this afternoon, after I was absolutely spent of energy on arrival half an hour ago. However it is amazing what a hot shower will do and I had the place all to my self as I arrived at 12 noon already.<br /><br />I experienced a couple of wonderful hours this morning as my walking is starting to become second nature. I think I have found my rhythm and as such able to do a little reflection as I walk. Today's trip was a little different, with wide open gravel paths, meandering like a serpent up through the landscape, so one could see where one would be in 30 minutes time. The path was approx. 3 meters wide and fairly free of loose stones and rocks, giving me the opportunity to do other things besides thinking where I am putting my feet. Hence I had a wonderful reflection on how special last evening had been and how the Camino seemed to free the mind and spirit to appreciate these very special moments. (I do think they are Camino moments - but they might even get better)<br /><br />I have discovered that my walking limit at the moment is around 20 km at day, doing it fairly easy up at approx. 9.30 when the heat from the sun starts to beat down from a blue sky with very little opportunities for shade along the way, sapping your energy slowly but surely over the next few hours. Today I met (another) 62 year old (young) man who started with me this morning and still had 15 km to go when I called it a day. He started his walk in nothern part of Germany so no wonder he is fit after walking approx, 1600 km.<br /><br />Last evening I went with a few friends to the local pub for a peregrino dinner. However before meal time, we had a few drinks in the bar and watch a bull fight from Pamplona. The San Ferin festival is something else to experience, especially in the Naverra Region, where everyone form the region seem to travel to Pamplona at some stage during the festival. The TV trasmission of the spectacle was fantastic with close up of the matadors, taunt with nerves and never loosing eye contact with the bull. Whether one agrees or disagrees with bull fighting, it is no doubt something in the Spanish psyche and part of who they are.<br /><br />We continued to have our meal. I had a mixed salad, a chicken in garlic butter and french fries, a chocolate ice cream and a bottle of red - what more can one wish for? The group I was with came from Ireland, Austria and Hungary and we all had a great evening together. Towards the end of the evening I was sitting only with the couple from Hungary and one of those Camino moments happened, as he all of a sudden told me, that they had lost a young baby last year. He told me that he never had told anyone about this and didn't´t quite know why I was the one. I of course shared my loss of Simone and we had a very healing and special time together. Why this happens on the Camino I don´t know, but I do know that the sharing between seemingly strange people, who never have met before this Camino, is quite extraordinary and no doubt part of the Camino experience. When I told the group last evening that I normally is very shy and don´t initiate conversation very easily, they all laugh, as I haven´t stopped to speak with people since I arrived here. Is that another Camino experience - I don´t know?<br /><br />This morning I continued my journey and Decide to walk all the way to Logroña - a trip of approx. 20 km. I started at 5.45 this morning as the heat yesterday almost killed me. It is hard to describe the early morning - fresh and cool, even the smells seems to be different as the dew <a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINldpM_TaI/AAAAAAAAAFk/U6gtUPD4pUE/s1600-h/SL370518.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5225131552630853026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SINldpM_TaI/AAAAAAAAAFk/U6gtUPD4pUE/s200/SL370518.JPG" border="0" /></a>starts to evaporate. The sky behind me turns red within the first hour of my daily walk and I always stop, turn around and just wonder of the beauty around me. Unfortunately my little camera has not been able to catch the colour of the sky - however it is something I will never forget. Judging from the map of today's walk, I thought it would be rather flat - however the paths were narrow and rough again and one hill after the other appeared. However it is the downhill paths who kills me and my knees are were troublesome and painful this afternoon as I write this. I am not too sure what I can do about it, but for a start I have decided to stay here at Logroña tomorrow for a rest. I just have to find some other accommodation as one can only stay one night at the refugios.<br /><br />I was wrong yet again as the kind people in the refugio took pity on my and allowed me to stay one more day. However it is up in the morning and leave by 8 and return as other travellers at 1.30pm.<br /><br />Last evening I went out with my old friend´´ and had yet another peregrino dinner. We were joint by a Irish fellow who were so away with the birds, that he drove the Spanish waiter up the wall (and back down again). I have never quite seen anyone like him and we had a real belly laugh. However the waiter must have appreciated us after all as he gave us some kind of yellow liqueur on the house. I volunteered to drink two as Julie didn´t want hers. However it was farewell to these lovely people and we wished each other a great Camino.<br /><br />However as I write this I just found the blog covering this week, which I accidentally had saved as a draft last evening and as such couldn´t find it earlier this afternoon.. You can imagine how sick I felt. So the following has to be read on that background.<br /><br />I have heard that women after giving birth often has the 7 day blues. I guess that what I had today. Who knows that might even be a Camini moment!!!<br /><br />This morning I decided to go to the post office and forward a couple of kilos, just to make my backpack a little lighter for my knees and back. I walked there with my aching knees and eventially found it. I arrived 8am and founf out that it didn´t open until 9.30 (of course I had forgotten it was Saturday) It was a faily cold morning so I got a little cold and uncomfortable as I sad on a bench and waited. When it eventually open, I looked closely as all the employees and picked the one who looked like speaking english. (I was right - how do one do these things)?<br />He informed me that the postoffive in Santiago only would keep my things for 14 days and not as it is written in the perigrino bible for 2 months. Would I like toforward to a number fo cities which I would pass through - pick it up and send it again? No I didn´t think so. What about sending it to Melbourne - cost $43. I didn´t think so. Hence my backpack is the ame weight as before.<br /><br />Walked back to the hospital advertised in the peregrino bible also, where they are experts in Camino injuries. Wrong again - it is now a hospital for the mentally ill and my knees did fit that bill. Off yet again and founf another hospital where I showed them by helthcard and got the number 25. Very impressed only waited 35 minutes before seeing a spanish doctor who tould me in fluent spanish that my knees wre inflamed and I need to ise them 10 min every hour, use Voltaren cream and take some pills he gave me. He also recommended to tape the legs up under the knee but had very good bedmanners as he didn´t put it on with all my leg-hair intact. (they would have done that in Melbourne, no questions asked)<br /><br />So it was time to get to the refugio and stand in the line to be allocated a bed for the night. I met a danish couple and had a bit of a chat to them while waiting. Guess what? they were both teachers from Aahus.<br /><br />And then the rain came and I baptized my new rain jacket, wondering dorn and get myself a cup of coffee and a sandwich. However my general mood at this time was not all that uplifting as my day hadn´t been that great. I didn´t know any of the people who had arrived, so there you see - it was a day where I had the seven day blues. (however finding this blog again I feel a lot better and will look forward to my journey tomorrow -the start of my second week.Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30395499012870216.post-83109759323415726172008-07-05T03:37:00.000-07:002008-07-09T01:42:20.773-07:00My two days in MadridArrived early Friday morning after an absolute nightmare in Copenhagen Airport with what seemed half of Europe waiting to depart - all at seemingly the same time. However almost an hour waiting in what seemed to be an endless <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">queue</span> of people, I finally booked my seat and encountered what it means to be on a European flight, with seats so close that I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">couldn</span>´t fit my knees in. However the three hours flight and cramped conditions were pleasantly diverted by a most interesting conversation I had with a Swe<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">dish</span> Doctor of Business from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Lund</span> University (an old part of the former Denmark) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">specialising</span> in leadership, both in the areas of business as well as education (who said you need to visit a university for your Enrichment Leave?) She <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">was</span> on her way to a conference here in Madrid and before we knew it, the wheels were lowered for landing and we headed off in different directions.<br /><br />Butterflies in my <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">stomach</span> yet again as I wondered how I was going to find my way from the Airport to my hotel, located somewhere in Madrid. However with a bit of help from the Information Desk I found the Metro and negotiated not not only Line 8 but changed successfully to Line 4 and 2 as well and finally found myself <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">nearPlaza</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">del</span> Sol, from where I could negotiate my way to the hotel. Did I feel a little like Columbus, finding not the new but at least part of the old world.!<br /><br />I spent the afternoon walking around to get a feeling for the place - wonderful monuments and buildings where ever I turned and what seemed a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">never ending</span> sea of people from all over the world. It is certainly a popular <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">tourist</span> destination as visitors with <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">cameras</span> and maps in hand are found at e<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fVYrT12I/AAAAAAAAACE/EjDtZIVtIJs/s1600-h/SL370335.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219495314151692130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fVYrT12I/AAAAAAAAACE/EjDtZIVtIJs/s200/SL370335.JPG" border="0" /></a>very corner.<br /><br />I visited The Royal Palace (former residence of the Royal family) as well as the Cathedral De La <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Almudena</span>, a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">magnificent</span> building only recently visited by Pope John Paul II not long before he died.Unfortunately I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">wasn</span>´t able to go inside the church as it was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">being</span> renovated at the moment.<br />However the cathedral itself from the outside was m<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">ost</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">spectacular</span> as I hope this picture indicate.<br /><br />Last night I venture<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fWS3f8cI/AAAAAAAAACU/NxzOVRegVqU/s1600-h/SL370340.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219495329772073410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fWS3f8cI/AAAAAAAAACU/NxzOVRegVqU/s200/SL370340.JPG" border="0" /></a>d out again after a small siesta (was asleep for a full two hours) and found by 8pm the streets were even more packed with people and there was a real buzz over the place. I had my first <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">Bacarillo</span> with Cheese and Ham and two glasses of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">beautiful</span> cold beer. I have already discovered that <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">every time</span> you order a drink, you are served some <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Spanish</span> delicacy such as olives, cured sausages, rice pudding made with blood or other wonderful things. However it makes the beer go down real well.<br /><br />Came back to my hotel around midnight and fell asleep <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">straight</span> aways, only to woken up around 4 am with singing, yelling and a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">noise</span> factor with lots of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">decibels</span>. Wondering what was happening I wandered out on my small balcony and discovered that it simply was late <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">party goers</span> going home in the early morning. I had <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">heard</span> that life in Madrid happened at a late hour, but this was quite a sight to behold.<br /><br />Saturday morning I had a good breakfast (even though I feel a bit strange sitting all by myself) and went out for the day joining a sightseeing double <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">decker</span> bus. I have to say that I badly neglected my preparation for this stop-over in Madrid and no doubt am now paying the price. This morning I was introduced to so many historical buildings and monuments that I simply got overloaded with information. However I can record the following.<br /><br />Ma<a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fWtl1aDI/AAAAAAAAACc/EOZkRMqlCrU/s1600-h/SL370350.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219495336945739826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fWtl1aDI/AAAAAAAAACc/EOZkRMqlCrU/s200/SL370350.JPG" border="0" /></a><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">drid</span> was first <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">established</span> by the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">Arabs</span> around 756 and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">subsequently</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">occupied</span> by the Christians from the northern part of Spain around 1050. Later it was called the Jerusalem of the West as <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">both</span> Christians as well as Arabs and Jews all seem to living i harmony. The wonderful architecture found here is no doubt due to the mixture of culture and impressions from <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">across</span> the world - even the new one. Hence the many <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">manificent</span> buildings, parks, museums and wide avenues with statues <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">commemorating</span> great past victors - yes even the "normal" houses are decorated in the most wonderful ways. What a pity I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">hadn</span>´t prepared properly thus enabling me to put what I saw into some kind of perspective. This <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">particular</span> photo is of the GOYA museum and is quite a home for this famous <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">Spanish</span> artist.<br /><br /><a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fV8a-NsI/AAAAAAAAACM/xs7xQigfS5I/s1600-h/SL370330.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219495323746842306" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_NEwIZ4s7-og/SG9fV8a-NsI/AAAAAAAAACM/xs7xQigfS5I/s200/SL370330.JPG" border="0" /></a>The street names are yet another feature worth commenting on. In the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">inner</span> city <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">that</span> are all made in tiles, with the n<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">ame</span> as well as a pictorial <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">background</span>. Quite <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">magnificent</span>. What do you think?<br /><br />Tonight I will try to get tickets to Bizet´s Carmen <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">being</span> performed in a local theater here. Judging from the photos this <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">particular</span> production has been influenced by the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">Spanish</span> dance traditions and should be quite a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">magnificent</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">experience</span>.<br /><br />Just to fill you in I did go and see Carmen, performed by the Spanish National Dance Ensemble and what a feast of flaminco dancing I witnessed. Quite breathtaking. I am not quite sure how they can move their feet that fast without moving the body at all - that is except their arms and hands with which they can tell quite a story.<br /><br />As I was leaving the theater some comotion was obvious at hand as thousands upon thousands of people were in the street. I found out that it was the Gay and Lesbian festival and I am afraid they didn´t leave Sydney behind (so to speak) in any way.<br /><br />As I was going to leave the next morning, I went back to my hotel around 11pm and ordered an early morning call at 5.30am. However for the second night running I didn´t get much sleep as everyone seemed to party around in the streets and I obviously was missing out. However sleep eventually found me, but no early morning call. Woke at 6.30, jumped out of bed, ran down the stairs and down to the Metro. The streets were still full of people - not very sober I can tell you. However I did get the Metro and I did get tot the main staion in time to board my train to Pamplona (very fast train) and arrived safe and sound at 11.30am.<br /><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55"></span><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56"></span>Gunnar's Caminohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02038503877907617038noreply@blogger.com5