travelled and what it means to those very brave and special people who complete the Way of St James. The nearest I was privileged to experience was the day after I arrived in Santiago de Compestella and Gunnar took me to the cathedral where all pilgrams( sorry, I mean peregrinos) finish their journey. Those of us who live in Australia and who have not yet travelled to Europe, know very little that dates back over 250 years, however, this town of Santiago is dated back to 800 AD and is full of squares with the most wonderful character and filled with people from all over the world who are all in awe of the splendour of the simple tiny streets and the cafes and the memories of what we have been taught in our history classes - it really is like what we learned about the middle ages - nothing has changed.We arrived at the Cathedral at about 11.30 am and it was the most magnificent building. But the building is really a dead thing compared to what I saw as peregrinos came through the little street that led them to the end of their incredible journey. As I sat on a step, holding Gunnar's hand and listening to a three piece ensemble (excellent musicians - a flute, a guitar and would you believe - a mandolin?) playing Ave Maria and other emotive songs, I was totally over-awed as I watched couples, men, women, groups - all embracing each other as if to say "Praise God, we made it". Even though I did not go on the Camino, I had no doubt in recognising what this special and unique group of people had and in doing so had experienced something that cannot be described in any form of spoken or written word. I could not hold back my tears as I was aware that Gunnar had not only completed his dream of the Camino, but had done so under such difficult conditions where he had to 'crawl' from one place to another because of the intense pain his knees were causing. I don't think he will mind me sharing with you that if he had lived in Europe, he would probably have given up and gone home and tried again in six months time, but living in Australia, it was just not possible to do that. After sitting for an hour or so watching people arrive, we then went into the Cathedral for the Mass. This was someting quite special and the photo will tell you something about how beautiful it is. For those who are near and dear to me let me confide in you that I watched a priest in an open confessional give absolution to about 100 individual people - all totally on show and I commented to Gunnar that I thought this was a farce. However, having taken communion, I decided I wanted some absolution as well and went to to the confessional. Fortunately, the priest did not understand English and so I rattled off 35 years of sins. I was very surprised when he handed me a choice of cards in all languages and he decided that the one that said 3 Hail Mary's was the one for me. If I had been on the othe side of the confessional, it would have been at least 4, but the most important thing for me was that I had received the Sacrament in the mode that it was intended and I am very glad that I chose to do so. It meant a lot to me. As Gunnar has already told you, the Cathedral was packed to the limit and this happens every day. I didn't know much about the Apostle, St James, but he has certainly added to the lives of many people from all over the world.
Now, I will tell you a little of our journey through Spain. I had no idea of the size of this wonderful country. Our friend and travel agent, Ines had booked a very comfortable hotel for th
e first two nights. It was so good to greet each other at the airport and a hug can say a million words. Fortunately, I had not heard about the airline crash which took 150 lives just 12 hours before I arrived in Madrid. I wondered why the Spannair aircraft I was travelling on was only half full, and was blissfully unaware that I was travelling on the same airline. There he was, wearing his T Shirt saying "I completed the Camino" , as brown as a berry and so glad to see me. We spent two nights in Santiago de Compestalla where we tasted some great, but fattening tapas, some good beer for Gunnar and wine for me. We walked around the old city, up and down ancient streets and looked at the shops and cafes filled with tourists from all over the world. I even ventured out on my own one afternoon to do some window shopping and really enjoyed this opportunity to move around the city by myself. I picked out an Italian reasturant for the evening - but of course couldn't find it again in the evening. We had almost given up and there it was - right in front of my eyes. We ordered some nice mixed salad and a couple of varieties of Italian pasta and enjoyed both the meal and each others company - all while the waiter kept an eye on the Olympic Basketball Semi-final, in which Spain played. Next to us sat another couple, who we sta
rted to 'talk to' - pretty difficult as they were from Seville in the southern part of Spain and spoke and understood very little english. However we all did our best and this process was helped a little by trying a couple of special spanish liquers. Laraine conveyed that she would love to see some flamingo dancing but was told that we were in the wrong end of Spain to see this, as it was a southern Spanish tradition. However, she told us (I am not sure how) that she knew how to dance flamingo. I begged her to try and up she went and showed us four traditional dances right there on the spot. What a wonderful moment, not a Camino moment, however, but we really enjoyed it. The remainder of this blog is written by "us".
e first two nights. It was so good to greet each other at the airport and a hug can say a million words. Fortunately, I had not heard about the airline crash which took 150 lives just 12 hours before I arrived in Madrid. I wondered why the Spannair aircraft I was travelling on was only half full, and was blissfully unaware that I was travelling on the same airline. There he was, wearing his T Shirt saying "I completed the Camino" , as brown as a berry and so glad to see me. We spent two nights in Santiago de Compestalla where we tasted some great, but fattening tapas, some good beer for Gunnar and wine for me. We walked around the old city, up and down ancient streets and looked at the shops and cafes filled with tourists from all over the world. I even ventured out on my own one afternoon to do some window shopping and really enjoyed this opportunity to move around the city by myself. I picked out an Italian reasturant for the evening - but of course couldn't find it again in the evening. We had almost given up and there it was - right in front of my eyes. We ordered some nice mixed salad and a couple of varieties of Italian pasta and enjoyed both the meal and each others company - all while the waiter kept an eye on the Olympic Basketball Semi-final, in which Spain played. Next to us sat another couple, who we sta
rted to 'talk to' - pretty difficult as they were from Seville in the southern part of Spain and spoke and understood very little english. However we all did our best and this process was helped a little by trying a couple of special spanish liquers. Laraine conveyed that she would love to see some flamingo dancing but was told that we were in the wrong end of Spain to see this, as it was a southern Spanish tradition. However, she told us (I am not sure how) that she knew how to dance flamingo. I begged her to try and up she went and showed us four traditional dances right there on the spot. What a wonderful moment, not a Camino moment, however, but we really enjoyed it. The remainder of this blog is written by "us".On the Saturday morning it was time to leave Santiago and Gunnar left to pick to car up from the Europe Car Rental office, next to the station. I think he was a little apprehensive, as he hadn't driven in the right side of the road for almost 35 years. I stood watching for him on the balcony and there he was, coming around the roundabout, without colliding with any of the other cars. We rented a Peugeut 380 - a brand new model just released in Europe and began our long drive east across Spain. We travelled about 600 km on this first day, through Lugo, which I navigated through the very city center (not a smart move) but we found our way out without too much fustration. We continued out journey north and reached the Bay of Biscay at Tapia de Casariego, a wonderful little coastal town, with the ocean gleaming brightly in the sun behind it. We made a short stop in this tourist haven and enjoyed the Saturday market with the many colorful an
d very different stores along the small steets. We continued along the coast and after studying the map we made a decision to make our first stop at a small coastal town called San Vicente de la Barguera, shortly before Santander. San Vicente was a wonderful picturisque town, connected to the main highway by an old Roman bridge taking cars and people across the water inlet, where the daily tide moved the ocean waters in and out to the tune of 5-6 meters a day - something (something we have never expereinced before). It was a real tourist haven and the main street was filled with a number of great reasturants, with delicious seafood on the menu. Our evening finished off with a wonderful firework display, no doubt culminating a fiesta of some kind.
d very different stores along the small steets. We continued along the coast and after studying the map we made a decision to make our first stop at a small coastal town called San Vicente de la Barguera, shortly before Santander. San Vicente was a wonderful picturisque town, connected to the main highway by an old Roman bridge taking cars and people across the water inlet, where the daily tide moved the ocean waters in and out to the tune of 5-6 meters a day - something (something we have never expereinced before). It was a real tourist haven and the main street was filled with a number of great reasturants, with delicious seafood on the menu. Our evening finished off with a wonderful firework display, no doubt culminating a fiesta of some kind.The next day we continued our journey along the Biscay Bay towards Santander, Bilbao and San Sebastian. Although both of these cities have great sights to visit, we decided not to get involved driving in a city we didn't know and left the cost for Pamplona - the city Gunnar had started his journey almost 8 weeks prior. Along the road Gunnar pointed out many camino signs. We even saw a few walkers along the road, and marlvelled at the distance these pilgrims still have to cover, before they would reach Santiago. As Pamplona came in to view, Gunnar pointed out the Alto del Perdon, the hilltop, he climed on the very first day. It was strage and exciting to be at the place where he had begun his journey. From Pamplona my navigating skills told me to follow the E240, which would take us further westward along the base of the Pyrenees towards the
Meditteranian. Gunnar had told me that it would be good to travel as far as possible, as he predicted a slow trip trough the mountains and the many winding roads. I really didn't believe that i
t would too bad, but as we travelled through the Pirynees, we only travelled at about 30kms per hour and often would find a lorry or a caravan before us. It is so steep and just so breathtaking. You can have a laugh at the always placid Gunnar who had me not only navigating through these bloody Alps, but taking photographs out of the window as well. I was so scared that I didn't take one photo. The next I took 80. We have got photos of mountains and mountains, lakes, goats, medieval villages, Spanish cafes, trees, lakes, rivers, you name it - I took it. I even took a photo of Gunnar's ears. If I missed a thing, I was in real trouble - only joking! I wanted to take all of these photos (other than the ears) because it was just incredible. We finally decided to make a stop and found a hotel in Baltana, a small village in the middle of the mountains. Whilst Gunnar rested I went for a walk and stumbled across a mountain stream with a swimming hole, with the clearest water, sparkeling turquoise in the sunshine, I think I have even seen. I hurried back to fetch 
Gunnar to show him, but we arrived back just as the sun disappeared behind the mountains, so the beautiful color had was missed. What a pity! But the water was still clear and beautiful, and we kust sat there on a rock with our feet in the water for an hour or so, enjoying this little gem of a place. After eating something akin to 'open sandwishes', which were delicious, we had an early night in preparation for another days difficult driving. However would you believe - 15 minutes after midnight, we both sat up in bed awoken by a tremendous bang. The fireworks from San Viente de la Barguera had followed us and new commenced to launch a barrage of rockets and glowing and spluttering suns into the sky, making even more noise in the middle of the mountains. We couldn't believe that it was really happening - but as usual in this part of the world, the streets were full of children, even at the late hour.
t would too bad, but as we travelled through the Pirynees, we only travelled at about 30kms per hour and often would find a lorry or a caravan before us. It is so steep and just so breathtaking. You can have a laugh at the always placid Gunnar who had me not only navigating through these bloody Alps, but taking photographs out of the window as well. I was so scared that I didn't take one photo. The next I took 80. We have got photos of mountains and mountains, lakes, goats, medieval villages, Spanish cafes, trees, lakes, rivers, you name it - I took it. I even took a photo of Gunnar's ears. If I missed a thing, I was in real trouble - only joking! I wanted to take all of these photos (other than the ears) because it was just incredible. We finally decided to make a stop and found a hotel in Baltana, a small village in the middle of the mountains. Whilst Gunnar rested I went for a walk and stumbled across a mountain stream with a swimming hole, with the clearest water, sparkeling turquoise in the sunshine, I think I have even seen. I hurried back to fetch 
Gunnar to show him, but we arrived back just as the sun disappeared behind the mountains, so the beautiful color had was missed. What a pity! But the water was still clear and beautiful, and we kust sat there on a rock with our feet in the water for an hour or so, enjoying this little gem of a place. After eating something akin to 'open sandwishes', which were delicious, we had an early night in preparation for another days difficult driving. However would you believe - 15 minutes after midnight, we both sat up in bed awoken by a tremendous bang. The fireworks from San Viente de la Barguera had followed us and new commenced to launch a barrage of rockets and glowing and spluttering suns into the sky, making even more noise in the middle of the mountains. We couldn't believe that it was really happening - but as usual in this part of the world, the streets were full of children, even at the late hour.We started again the next morning after a bite of breakfast and the winding road continued, even worse than the day before. We drove through gullies, so narrow, that it seemd impossible for two cars to pass each other - and with no lines on the road to guide the drivers. I felt decidedly uncomfortable and I know Gunnar was struggling judging the width of the car - not only because it was an unknown car, but also because he had to judge the angles from the left hand side of the vichicle. Being tired, we decided to take the road through France to Perpignan, as this looked less mountainous than other roads. It was incredibly slow and we were exhausted. Eventually, we reach the outskirts of the city, found the motorway and headed toward the Spanish border, just 23 kilometers away. A further 23 kilometers on the Spanish side, we found the turn off to Roses and finally reach our destination of Empuriobravo.
If any of you have the time, please Google Earth this incredible place in Spain. It is between Figueres and Roses on the North East Coast of Spain. It is actually a marine city where all houses/villas are built on canals with their own moorings. Most of them are owned by rich Spaniards and Germans. Even though we had travelled 1,200 kms without too much trouble, do you think we could find the house where the family were awaiting us. We had at least six mobile phone calls, I don't know how many hissies I threw. As most of you will know, Gunnar doesn't actually throw hissies, but he yells a lot and yes, he yelled a lot, which made me throw even more hissies and I actually "just put my head up in the air and walk away". That always does it, and so he decided to calm down and listen to some common sense like "ring the number of the real estate agent who is Josep's friend. Anyway, enough of that, I went to a taxi driver and asked the address and we eventually found our home for the next week and what a home it was. How wonderful to be with Gunnar's sister, Birgith; her husband, Josep,(who is Spanish) and his niece Lisa and and her younger sister Angelina and her fiance Kenneth and their two beautiful daughters, Emelie (12 1/2 and Helene 9). There is nothing so special as a family and my Danish family are as special to me as my Australian family.
We shared the most fantastic 6 days together in a wonderful waterfront villa. We talked and talked, we laughed and we shared. We went shopping and a very special night indeed was the night we went for a wonderful meal to celebrate Josep's 70th birthday. Josep treated us to very good Spanish food (no octopus) and of course, good wine. We had a great night. Most of the family walked home along the Mediteranian coast, whilst Birgith, Helena and I went home by taxi. The "kids" went home on Saturday and Birgith, Josep, Gunnar and I stayed for another five days.
We shared the most fantastic 6 days together in a wonderful waterfront villa. We talked and talked, we laughed and we shared. We went shopping and a very special night indeed was the night we went for a wonderful meal to celebrate Josep's 70th birthday. Josep treated us to very good Spanish food (no octopus) and of course, good wine. We had a great night. Most of the family walked home along the Mediteranian coast, whilst Birgith, Helena and I went home by taxi. The "kids" went home on Saturday and Birgith, Josep, Gunnar and I stayed for another five days.I had ofte
n told Josep during previous vists, that one day we would come to Spain, and he would then show us his country. And this second week with them gave him plenty of opportunity just to do that. He took us on a drive to a medieval village called Besalu, with the ruins from a famous early Jewish settlement, now long gone, after an apparent terrible and vicious persecution.(I was never aware that Jewish persecusion had taken place right back to year 1000) We then continued to a wonderful lake called Banyoles, where the olympic rowing had taken place in 1992. It was a very large vulcanic lake and the story goes (as it often does) that no one know sjust how deep it was
We also visited Roses where Josep was born - then a small fishing village - now a thriving tourist heaven. From here we caught a boat which took us further north along the coast to Cadacez, the most easterly village in Spain and the place where Salvadore Dali had had his summer residence. It was a wonderful village, with very steep laneways, of course all leading up to the church. The old fishing dwellings had all been transformed into tourist accomodation, but had still kept their original style and looks.
n told Josep during previous vists, that one day we would come to Spain, and he would then show us his country. And this second week with them gave him plenty of opportunity just to do that. He took us on a drive to a medieval village called Besalu, with the ruins from a famous early Jewish settlement, now long gone, after an apparent terrible and vicious persecution.(I was never aware that Jewish persecusion had taken place right back to year 1000) We then continued to a wonderful lake called Banyoles, where the olympic rowing had taken place in 1992. It was a very large vulcanic lake and the story goes (as it often does) that no one know sjust how deep it was
We also visited Roses where Josep was born - then a small fishing village - now a thriving tourist heaven. From here we caught a boat which took us further north along the coast to Cadacez, the most easterly village in Spain and the place where Salvadore Dali had had his summer residence. It was a wonderful village, with very steep laneways, of course all leading up to the church. The old fishing dwellings had all been transformed into tourist accomodation, but had still kept their original style and looks.Speaking about Salvadore Dali, he came from Figueres, a country town just 15 kilometers inland, 
where Josep grew up with his family and where the major Dali exhibition is found. We spent almost three hours in this 'museum' and witnessed the work of a most wonderful artist - no doubt a genious but no doubt also a man with some kind of mental disorder. His work spanned from paintings, sculptures, wall hangings, jewelry, three dimentional collage and much more. I guess some of his most famous pieces are the crucified Christ viewed from above - his melting watches and the paintings with two different images hidden in the same canvas.
We also caught up with some of Birgith and Josep's friends who treated us to a delicious elfresco meal and we then went to a wonderful cabaret of Flamenco dancers and singers and this was really great. I have never seen any troupe try as hard to dance their hearts out as this group did. It was something I have dreamed of for a long time and was carried away by the spirit and the liveliness of these dancers. I will carry the flame of Spain with me forever.
We finally had to say goodbye to Empuriabravo and drove to Figueres and from there caught the train to Barcelona to spend our final two days in Spain in this wonderful city, which today (I guess one of the impacts of the Olympic Games in 1992) is one of the places to visit in Europe. And may I say than neither of us were dissapointed. We have never seen so many people and tourists before in our life - hundreds of thousands it seemed. Walking down the famous Rambla, showcasing a unique and colorful universe of boutique markets, featuring flowers, birds, leather stalls, a wonderfil fruit
and fish market along side the Opera House. We stopped for a drink and just sat there watching a river of people, from all over the world pass by. It was so facsinating! And street artist - the ones standing still - came in all colors, disguises and sizes and was an never ending topic of amusement and discussion. At the end of the Rambla we found the harbour with a huge statue of Christopher Columbus, pointing towards America - a most beautiful monument, built as part of a world trade exhibition, held in Barcelona in 1886.
From the bus we saw the Olympic Stadium and the Olympic Village, built along the waterfront - a decision which helped change the old tradition, that the further away from the ocean one lived, the higher up in the social order one was -hence today modern and very expensive houses and apartments have been built along the waterfront and the old picture is changing. However driving through the old part of the city, built on the slopes of Collserola massif, one could enjoy and appreciate the many wonderful old homes, all with a magnificent view of Barcelona.
where Josep grew up with his family and where the major Dali exhibition is found. We spent almost three hours in this 'museum' and witnessed the work of a most wonderful artist - no doubt a genious but no doubt also a man with some kind of mental disorder. His work spanned from paintings, sculptures, wall hangings, jewelry, three dimentional collage and much more. I guess some of his most famous pieces are the crucified Christ viewed from above - his melting watches and the paintings with two different images hidden in the same canvas. 
We also caught up with some of Birgith and Josep's friends who treated us to a delicious elfresco meal and we then went to a wonderful cabaret of Flamenco dancers and singers and this was really great. I have never seen any troupe try as hard to dance their hearts out as this group did. It was something I have dreamed of for a long time and was carried away by the spirit and the liveliness of these dancers. I will carry the flame of Spain with me forever. 
We finally had to say goodbye to Empuriabravo and drove to Figueres and from there caught the train to Barcelona to spend our final two days in Spain in this wonderful city, which today (I guess one of the impacts of the Olympic Games in 1992) is one of the places to visit in Europe. And may I say than neither of us were dissapointed. We have never seen so many people and tourists before in our life - hundreds of thousands it seemed. Walking down the famous Rambla, showcasing a unique and colorful universe of boutique markets, featuring flowers, birds, leather stalls, a wonderfil fruit
and fish market along side the Opera House. We stopped for a drink and just sat there watching a river of people, from all over the world pass by. It was so facsinating! And street artist - the ones standing still - came in all colors, disguises and sizes and was an never ending topic of amusement and discussion. At the end of the Rambla we found the harbour with a huge statue of Christopher Columbus, pointing towards America - a most beautiful monument, built as part of a world trade exhibition, held in Barcelona in 1886. 
From the bus we saw the Olympic Stadium and the Olympic Village, built along the waterfront - a decision which helped change the old tradition, that the further away from the ocean one lived, the higher up in the social order one was -hence today modern and very expensive houses and apartments have been built along the waterfront and the old picture is changing. However driving through the old part of the city, built on the slopes of Collserola massif, one could enjoy and appreciate the many wonderful old homes, all with a magnificent view of Barcelona.We decided to do what all tourists do with limited time on their hands - we took a tourist bus around town. In Barcelona there are three different routes, which cross over at certain points, enabling one to change from one route to another. We decided to get off the bus at the famous Temple de la Sagrada Familia - the unfinished church - to admire the unique work and architecture of Antoni Gaudi. The project was commenced in 1882 and Gaudi was the chief architect and project leader to his death in 1926. One had to admit the church is unique and 
quite different from any other church building in the world, displaying complex geometrical shapes and the use of various forms of quartz to achieve these unique shapes and forms. Eight of the twelve bell towers have been completed, each with a height of more than 100 meters. The two main facades of the church carry the theme of the Passion and of the Nativity and both are very rich and complex in both form and style - the Nativity being very traditional in its sculpures while the Passion of Christ is ultra modern and full of symbolism. The overarching theme of Gaudi is to symbolise the church as a shelter - hence the columns symbolising trees and branches and leaves - and the top of the towers, the symbols of the earth and the stars meet. This symbol, said Gaudi, was the first thing sailors would see of Barcelona when arriving.
quite different from any other church building in the world, displaying complex geometrical shapes and the use of various forms of quartz to achieve these unique shapes and forms. Eight of the twelve bell towers have been completed, each with a height of more than 100 meters. The two main facades of the church carry the theme of the Passion and of the Nativity and both are very rich and complex in both form and style - the Nativity being very traditional in its sculpures while the Passion of Christ is ultra modern and full of symbolism. The overarching theme of Gaudi is to symbolise the church as a shelter - hence the columns symbolising trees and branches and leaves - and the top of the towers, the symbols of the earth and the stars meet. This symbol, said Gaudi, was the first thing sailors would see of Barcelona when arriving.
Late Saturday evening we went to see a wonderful light and water display, where a number of beautiful fountains performed a 'water ballet ' to accompanying music. This picture tells a little of the story.We really enjoyed the display which was a great way to farewell this wonderful city and our all too brief stay.
The next morning a taxi awaited us at 8am to take us to Barcelona Airport and we arrived safely in Copenhagen 'Kastrup' Airport at 2pm, ready to take on the next part of our journey in Denmark and meet family and friends, some of whom we hadn't seen for almost 10 years.
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