Week 7 - Santiago - reaching the destination

Sunday morning, everyone, all 800 pilgrims filling this final albergue, were quiet and reflective, as everyone knew that in just an hour, we would be reaching the end point of our journey - whether it has taken 6 weeks or maybe only 1 week.

We decided ( my friends and I) to walk this last part of the Camino together as a group and started this final part of our journey at 8am, so we would have a few hours in Santiago, before the 12 o´clock pilgrims Mass.

We walked slowly, savouring each step and each in our own thoughts. As the cathedral came into view and we entered through the final Portico de Gloria, we finally arrived in front of the west entrance to the cathedral and the Plaza do Obradoiro, and quietly stood on the zero marker for the pilgrimage, each quietly contemplating our own unique and individual journey to this spot.
Here are Raymond and Angela from Scotland as well as Barbara from Bologna.

In this pucture we are just to enter the West Plaza of the cathedral, where one finds the ZERO marker for the Camino. No-one really wanted to go through the gate first, as we didn´t want it to come to an end.

We entered the cathedral during the normal Sunday Mass and took the opportunity to walk behind the High Alter, ascend the stairs and put our hands on the shoulders of the Apostle James and say a quiet prayer, after which you descend into a crypt to kneel before a casket containing the relics of the great saint and once again pray quietly. It is a very special and reflective moment and one that is very hard to put into words. So much has gone into getting to this moment . So much hardship and physical endeavour - so many special moments - so many lessons learned - all trying some how to be encapsulated in such a moment.

We then went to the Pilgrims Office Oficina del Piligrino in Casa do Dean, to obtain our Compostella - a special certificate, acknowledging that you have completed the Pilgrimage. We had to wait approx. 45 minutes before it became our turn, but as we left, the waiting period would have been hours and I was grateful that we had arrived fairly early, to avoid the huge masses of pilgrims arriving every day.

It was then time to find a bed for the night, and as I am going to stay in Santiago for a few nights, I decided to find a hotel room, where I can get settled and be comfortable. I just had time to book in and then hurried back to the cathedral in time for the 12 o´clock pilgrims mass. It was quite an overwhelming experience. Just imagine a church with almost 2000 pilgrims, from all over the world, arriving on the particular day and time, sitting or standing in every corner of the church. Talking about an excitement one almost can touch. The Bishop of Santiago, following at least a dozen priests, addressed the congregation in no less than 6 languages and the daily list of pilgrims - where they commenced their journey and from where in the world they came, was read out as part of the Mass. I was the only Australian/Danish pilgrim in the Church at this particular Mass, which made me feel pretty special.

Just to give you an idea of the amount of pilgrims arriving in Santiago each day - as we left the Mass there would have been at least 500 pilgrims standing outside the Church, waiting to enter. It is quite amazing numbers and they arrive each day throughout the year (even though the summer months obviously are the most travelled)

Last evening we all went out and had a meal and a few drinks and also quite a few goodbyes as everyone now commenced their journey back from where they came - a very peculiar feeling and sensation - for many of these people have shared a unique experience for a time in their lives - and now somehow have to return - however always remembered by what they contributed on the journey in sharing their stories, supporting you when it became tough and hence became part of your story and experience.
Here Barbara gives Angela a big hug - just wanted to clarify for Bruno that the gray hair doesn´t belong to me!

I spent the next couple of days in Santiago, enjoying just walking around quietly and to somehow get in touch with all the many impressions this final destination had offered. I enjoyed the comfort of a small hotel room and the knowledge that I didn't need to find a bed for the night (a little comfort goes a long way - especially after almost 6 weeks on the road). I also took this time to find out the details of Laraines arrival - how to get to the airport by the airport bus and yet again find out the bus schedule. I also walked to the hotel, Hespirio Perigrino (organised from Australia) situated about 30 minutes away from where I was staying, orgainising to leave my backpack there on the Thursday morning, before going to the airport to pick up Laraine. I also went to Europe Car Rental to make sure they had a car ready for us for Saturday morning. It was lucky, that I decided to do this, as they informed me that my booking, which I had made from Australia, was completely unknown to them, and as such, would have meant, that no car would have been available for us.

Despite thinking that I had run of pilgrim friends, I kept running into people I knew - pilgrims who might have been in Finisterra for a few days before returning to Santiago for a last look. I found my Belgian principal friend sitting quietly outside the cathedral on the Tuesday and we decided to go to the Pilgrims Mass together, to complete our journey together - a very special time and celebration. At this Mass they swung the huge incense burner, which was suspended from the ceiling high above the altar from side to side, almost touching the cathedral roof maybe 80 meters above the congregation - quite a spectacular sight and controlled by no less that 6 priests, all hanging on to ropes - pulling and letting go in unison - quite a spectacle.

Wednesday was a glorious day with bright sunshine (the first such day since arriving in Galicia almost 2 weeks ago) and I decided to take to bus to Finisterra to experience this final destination for many pilgrims. The bus ride almost took 3 hours and followed the Atlantic coast for most of the way - past fishing villages, that for centuries had developed the specialised skills needed to havest not only the fish and octopus, but the vast array of shellfish living in these waters and tidal pools. The tide along this coast is quit spectacular with a movement between high and low tide somewhere between 6-8 meters. At low tide the boats are all morooned on the sand like beached whales - but that is not an excuse to rest. Hundreds of woman can be seen on the sand banks, digging for all sorts of shell fish, which no doubt will be on the dinner tables around Spain and Europe that very evening. A German man sitting behind me on the bus, now living in Madrid, was my tour guide on the trip and kept me informed of all sort of interesting facts and figures. Hence Spain like so many other parts of the world is suffering from lack of rain and especially Barcelona is in trouble. He also told me that this wonderful coastline just a few years back ahd been awash with oil, coming from a stricken tanker split in half off the cost and had made everyone unemployed for more than 12 months along the coast, while cleaning the mess up.

Finisterra - the end of the earth - was the most westerly point in the known world until Columbus managed to find America - was quite spectacular. To reach the lighthouse one has to endure a 5 kilometer up-hill walk, but I was quite prepared for this last sacrifice, as part of my Camino. I hitched up with an American physicist doing research at Yale University, and as such she became my last perigrino companion on my journey.


The landscape of this cape or outcrop was spectacular (even for me, used to seeing quite spectacular coastlines along the Australian south and east coast) and I found it a very special place to be - providing a wonderful place just to sit and reflect and come to terms with the finality of this day and this journey.
I am sitting at the ZERO marker for the Camino and enjoying the wonderful view and achievement.

Watching a little television in the evening after my dinner (Spanish time between 8-10pm) and thinking about meeting Laraine at Santiago Airport the next day, the news flash about the terrible crash in Madrid Airport late in the afternnon, where more than 150 people had died, filled the screen. Terrible news at any time, but especially just hours before your wife is going to arrive in that very airport. I really hoped that she would have no knowledge of this disaster, as it no doubt would unsettle her. I arrived in Madrid Airport on time to pick her up and wasn't suprised to find that her flight had been delayed. At midday everyone observed a minutes silence and it was eerie to stand in an airport, normally filled with the noise of excited travellers, go silent for what seemed a long time. Laraine's flight landed approx. 15 minutes later and it wasn't long before I spotted her coming out from the arrivals lounge - what a special moment after being on the road for almost 7 weeks and only really been in touch via SMN's messages during this time.

I had already decided that the best way of giving Laraine some kind of insight into the Camino, was to take her to the cathedral and just watch the pilgrims, as they arrived at this end point of their journey - watch their faces - their tears - their smiles - the pain as some walked these last few steps. I know these faces touch Laraine very deeply and she somehow touched, at least part of this unique journey and expereince. We went to the Pilgrims Mass together and once again I am sure this expereince and opportunity to celebrate and give thanks, helped her to put not only my Camino, but also in many ways her's, into some larger perspective.

As I am trying to reflect on my Camino, I am not sure how to put it into words. One thing I am sure of is, that it has been a unique experience, that will stay with me for the rest of my life and somehow help shape how I look upon life and the way I live it.

I am very grateful to the people in the Catholic Education Office, Melbourne, who believed that this project was a genuine proposal for Enrichment Leave - and I hope no-one will ever doubt the huge effect this journey will have on any individual principal, contemplating this journey . It goes to the very core of who you are as a person - your spiritual life as well as your physical life - and will effect your capacity to perform in your job as principal in a significant way.

Also thanks to my wife, Laraine, who always has trusted and supported me on this journey - encouraging and believing in me and giving me the opportunity to grow and discover more deeply who I am as a person. Thanks to Steen and Karina and also to Simone - you were all such an important part of this journey and I spent many hours with you individually, as I travelled through the wonderful and ever changing landscape of the Camino. And to my wonderful grand children, Mikaila, Dana and Ally of whom I often spoke and shared their part in my life.

And finally thanks for all the messages from family and friends, from the kids and teachers from St. Charles - you were all very much part of this journey and because so many pilgrims at this time of the year were in the teaching profession, you were often a source of conversation.

Where to from here? The Camino has been completed (I am after all in Santiago, completing this blog) but I am sure my Camino has only just started in a number of ways, as I in the coming days, months, years, reflect and work through the many, many special memories , which became part of me on this Camino - The Way of St. James.

Week 6 - Walking from Sarria to Santiago de Compostella

I woke up very excited this morning as I had decided to give the walking another go. My goal for the day was approx. 14 km to a small village called Ferrerios - which means blacksmiths - maybe the name has a story to tell.

It was a wonderful cool morning with plenty of morning mist around - a trait of Galicia - as so much moist air comes directly in from the Atlantic Ocean, and settles in the mountains and hills around the Camino walking track. The mist made the country side wonderfully fresh, with mellow and soft colours all around. The country side here in Galicia is very wooded and the walkers are well protected from the sun as the Camino goes trough woodlands, mainly consisting of oak and chestnut trees, both providing ample shade for the walkers. It didn´t take me long to get into a rhythm and I was very careful to slow down my pace to about 4 km an hour and also be careful how my feet contacted the ground - softly, softly was the aim of the day. Not only did the physical walking get into a rhythm fairly quickly, but so did my internal feeling and thinking processes as well. It is amazing how the physical and the internal spheres seem to follow a common rhythm, which provided a wonderful space for thinking and feeling. As I walked along I all of a sudden smelt this wonderful scent and realised it came from a gumtree - a single gumtree amongst the oak trees and it gave out the strongest scent which was unmistaken, not only to me, but for the other walkers as well. Gumtrees are getting more common as we walk along towards the coast - but so far it is the first and the only one I have seen so far.

A long time ago when I was in Najara, I spoke about a young actor couple from France / Germany who I spent some wonderful hours with on Plaza Españia, when I couldn´t walk. As I walked yesterday I saw a young woman just standing still and taking in the wonderful nature surrounding her, when I realised it was her. Here we go again! How does it happen you meet up with someone after almost three weeks - I just don´t know. We waked together for about an hour or so and spoke about the Camino and our experiences so far. Her boyfriend had had to return to Berlin a couple of weeks back and although they had had a wonderful Camino together, walking it alone was so very special, she told me. As custom has it, after an hour or so, she farewelled me and walked off a little faster than I, into the distance. However it left me with this feeling of wonderment and joy as to what suprises the Camino might provide me with next.

However I felt absolutely great as I arrived at Ferrerios and got a bed for the evening - and with no bad effect from the walk. What great news - I might still be able to walk to Santiago after all!

As I arrived three wounded soldiers were waiting for a bed as well - amongst them Bent - a Dane - 75 years old, who had a heart operation not that long ago and Josep, a Spaniard, who had that many blisters on his feet, that I lost count. They had both just started the Camino a couple of days ago, so the damage seems to happen within the first few days, as the body gets used to the hard work - day in and out.

At this small village, I encountered the largest number of flies I ever have seen or experienced. I can assure you that the Australian Salute came in handy. These villages which we travel through - and there are many - are tiny communities consisting of more cows than humans. Hence, one experiences a wonderful country smell when passing though these small communities - cow dung, wet hay, chickens etc - of course all paradise if you are a fly - which accounts for the multitude of these annoying creatures.

I also caught up with my two German friends who came out of nowhere, calling out - Grandpa - Grandpa. Good to see them again. They told me that they are making a German Travel Show about the Camino and that the TV crew catch up with at certain intervals to film and interview them. They asked me if I wanted to walk with them for part of tomorrow, which was very nice of them, as I can´t walk very fast.

We started the day at around 8 and walked 10 kilometers to Portomarin, which is surrounded by a big dam. The story goes, that underneath the water one can find the ruins from a battle between two holy orders, who used to occupy each side of the riverbank - however all that is in the past so who cares? Todays journey was again very pleasant, with the oaks providing wonderful shade against the warm morning sun. As we reached Portomarin, I farewelled my German friends, who decided to walk on for another 10 kilometers or so.

As I am sitting writing this blog I just saw Australia loose their soccer match to Argentina at a televison in the internet cafe and now it has been occupied by a Spanish family party, so the noise is quite deafening. However one has to realise that life doesn´t stop because a perigrino wishes to write a blog!

Portomarin was a great city for a stop over and the main street was full of bars and places to relax. There were many, many peregrinos here and I caught up with a fairly large group of friends, who I have seen on and off for the last 10 days. It was great to catch up and this farewell must surely be the last as we all are getting very close to Santiago. They have all been very good and supportive friends to me and all encouraged me to continue my Camino on the bus. The fit pilgrims will be in Santiago in three days if everything goes well and everyone is very focussed ton reaching this goal, which for some, is the end of a road which has lasted for more than a month.

I also caught up with my Belgium principal friend and he decided that we should try a special Spanish drink, made by fermented white wine - something like a Spanish version of grappa. Quite nice but I am sure, also very alcoholic. As we sat there we said hello to a couple of Irish teachers, who were just about to start their Camino. They had a few questions to ask of us and of course we gave all our valuable advice for the payment of a cold beer. We shared a perigino meal together - I had a mixed salad and pork chops and ice cream - what an adventurous Galician meal - shame on me!

The town square was set up with a stage, so after the meal we walked back to see what was happening. It was a folk dancing exhibition and judging from the crowd, everyone in the city must have turned up and everyone enjoyed the performances. There was even a Polish dancing troup, which would have made Jadwiga proud.

The next mroning I joined the human train, which the Camino now has become - a never ending row of pilgrims, all heading for Santiago. At one stage I counted at least 20 pilgrims in front of me and about the same number behind me. However most seem to walk at the same speed, so people still keep a certain distance between each other. However you want to avoid the groups of young kids, as they never stop taking and playing their music - I am not sure what the purpose of their pilgrimage is - but of course that´s not up to me to dicide.

I had inteded to stay in a small village called Hospital,(not that I am in need of one) but obviously the village was that small, that I completely missed it and was well on my way on to the next village, when I discoved my mistake. So I continued on and covered as such almost 17 kilometers, which was not bad, for an old chap.

The albergue was just a small one with only 18 beds - and I was completely surrounded by spanish and french pilgrims, with no english what-so-ever. However as I sat with two spanish guys, we did share where we came from, what we were doing for work, from where we started the Camino and other such pilgrim talk - so despite language difficulties, we killed a very pleasant hour. As it was a rather cold and wet afternoon, I turned in pretty early, as my sleeping bag was the only place, where I felt snug and warm, so I ended up having a long and good sleep before today´s etape.

I started out at 7.30 this morning - the weather was still cold and the rain had just stopped. I decided not to cover my backpack with the rain cover even though I kept it and my rain poncho handy. I was rather chilly in my t-shirt got warm quicky as I started to walk. I was given a very special gift this morning, as I somehow missed the ´human train´and didn´t see a soul for the next two hours - not a walker - not a bike rider. It was absolutely beautiful to just be alone and not for one moment was I worried about, whether or not I was on the right track. There was rain all around me and black clouds moved quickly accross the sky - but somehow missed me (that´s faith). The sensation of the diffrent smells on this early morning walk was quite unique - almost like nature's own spice rack. I came upon the first gum-tree plantation - what a sensational view for an aussie - and the scent in the early wet morning was not bad either.

As I walked along I was all of a sudden startled by this loud noise. My first thought was that it might be a jet fighter on an early morning training exercise - however a couple of minutes later I found out that is was cars driving on the wet freeway leading from Leon to Santiago. That shows how one gets use to the absolute silence one is able to experience on this Camino, making any sort of noise seem very loud and definitely harsh on the ear.

I arrived at today´s destination Palas De Rei at 9.30, decided to write this blog and continue for another couple of hours to the next albergue at Mato Casanova and hope I can get a bed there. I should be arriving there at 12 noon.

Before going on , may I take this opportunity to thanks everyone for their comments. They are great to read and I really enjoy being in touch with everyone. Thanks again.

I did arrive at Casanova at 11.55 , what estimation talent - only five minutes out. After settling in, a spanish guy asked me if I would like to be picked up by a car from a nearby albergue to get some luch. I of course said yes, as I hadn´t really had anything since lunch the day before. We were driven approx. 2 kilometers, to an albergue, situated a little of the official Camino track. We shared a lovely lunch - I chose an exotic sounding dish for an entre - it proved to be scambled eggs with champions - what a choice - followed by a wonderful home-cooked beef stew with carrots and onions and large chunks of beef - a great meal. I finished the meal off with the 'oldie but goodie' Tiamasu, made with a Spanish recipe - I think! I met a Danish girl at the albergue after lunch and we took this opportunity to speak a little Danish and discuss our experiences on the Camino.

This morning I started out at seven - the key for seven is missing on this keyboard - and only had planned to cover approx. 1o kilometers. I did so in about 2 hours, through wonderful country meadows full of old oak trees and open fields. Not so lucky this morning in regard to the 'train of people' - I hopped on in the middle of a large carriage, full of what sounded like excited holiday makers and not pilgrims. However I was told today by a Spanish young girl from south of Barcelona, that this week and the next is the official spanish holiday season - that's why I am surrounded by, what seems to be, millions of Spaniards.

Today the Camino left the Region of Lugo and entered the Region of A Coruña - the last region of the Camino in which Santiago is situated. I read on a stone just before arriving today - 51.5 kilometers to go! However the Camino for me is like reading a good book - you just don't want it to end - so like a book, I'm really treasuring these last few days of this wonderful experience.

Melide i s a city of eight thousand people - this keyboard again - and like most of the cities I have travelled through, it also has a medieval part with winding, narrow streets, with plenty of shops, bars and reastaurants serving the speciality of this region - Octopus Pulpo - I think I will leave it at that!

I discovered that I had forgotten something of a treasure at Ferrerios this morning - my shaving Mach 3 from Gilette. I had planned to contact Gillette on my return to Australia and tell them that I only had used one -1 - blade during the entire Camino of 6 weeks - and I was going to suggest that in the future they could call this extraordinary good blade -The Camino - however it wasn't to be and after finishing this blog, I am going down and find a supermarket to buy another Mach 3 - cause I look a little like the 'Neanderthal Man' at the moment.

Tomorrow I will be going to Arzua - close to 16 + 2 kilometers - again the keyboard - and hope that will be OK for my knees. The next day I won't have a choice as I will have to cover aprox. the same distance, as there are no albergues on the way. However with this speed, I should be in Santiago on Sunday in time for the famous 12 o'clock Pilgrims Mass - which no doubt will be a CAMINO MOMENT. However I will leave you for now and go out and enjoy Melide - get some food and buy that razor, so I can look a little more civilized, if that's possible on a Camino.

After a quiet afternoon looking around the old part of Melide, I decided to have something to eat and sat in front of the albergue and made myself a bread roll with normal ham off the bone - most ham here in Spain is cured ham - and enjoyed a drink of Mezena - apple-to help it go down. I said hello to two girls sitting next to me writing their diaries and we fell into conversation-as one does. They were both from Rome and last year students in medicine and law and had decided to travel the camino together, before their final exams. As they left, they invited me to join them later at a very famous restaurat Exequiel, specialising in pulperias - octopus. I thought about it and finally decided to join them - I mean I didn´t have to eat at the restaurent, just have a drink. I found them an half of an hour later in the restaurent, with 8 other Italians, who had met up during the Camino. Some were from Firenze, others from Milan and the two girls from Rome. They were all well educated and their English not bad - at least they all had a go. They ordered of course a couple of serves of the dreaded - just look at the photo - some garlic prawns (should be called shrimps) a couple of T-bone steaks and wine which was drunk from a special kind of cup. We had a great evening together -the best for a couple of evenings, as my socializing had gone a bit quiet - I even tried the octopus and must admit it was very tender. We finished up as late as was possible - around 10.30 - and had this last picture taken before saying good night.

I woke early this morning as I knew that I had a pretty long walk ahead of me. I was on the road and walking at 6.30am, still very dark around me. When walking at that hour one has to be very careful where one put ones feet and keep a close look-out for stones and uneven parts of the track. However I survived. As as the dawn broke it was just so special and absolutely quiet. There is something very special about this time of the day - I guess the promise of something brand new and fresh and untouched by human kind. One realises that it has all the potential within it for man to do good or bad, to heal or to hurt - quite simple, when put like that. As one walks at this time, one definitely realises the gift being unwrapped around oneself. Very special and very beautiful.

Imagine the bliss when all of a sudden from behind, a group of young kids, make this special moment, into some kind of a Luna Park or Bakken in Denmark - screaming and yelling and making Koo Koo sounds, (they must surely have been from Germany, with that kind of Koo Koo sounds). I stopped to let them pass me, but I guess the spell of that special moment was gone - how fragile is real beauty!

The occurence of eucalyptus is becoming more frequent as Imove through Galicia - I even saw a stringy bark this morning - so I have stopped taking photos of them and call out in excitement - however they are still beautiful trees and I really enjoy seeing them. I even show other pilgrims how to crunch the leaves in their hands to get the full eucalyptus expereince. However today I had a real good walking day without much discomfort and made the 17 kilometers in just 3 hours - so I arrived faily early and found a bed for the night. Great feeling!

Arzua is the last city I will be passing through before I reach Santiago. I have organised two hikes tomorrow Friday and Saturday, each of 15 kilometers, leaving only a short 5 kilometer walk into Santiago on Sunday. I will be relaxing the rest of the day and take the sighs of this city in as I wonder around. I will have to be on the road very early tomorrow as I have to reach the my next destination of Arca do Pino as early as possible, as there only is one albergue with room for 120, which will leave many pilgrims without a bed or forced to go to a private hostel.

I had a quiet evening and went to the local bar and watched a little from the Olympic Games . a basketball game between Germany and Spain. (one of the few things I have been able to watch) Went to bed at 9.30pm and went to sleep straight away as I didn´t hear the person sleeping in the top bunk go to bed.

I woke up at 2 am and was feeling rested and ready for a new day - hence I decided to pack my gear (very quietly) and I was on the road at 2.20 am. It was a wonderful clear night - unfortunately with no stars as the full moon was shining brightly - so I had to put up with the moon and its only companion Venus.

Although it was with some reservations that I ventured out in the middle of the night, I was quietly confident that I was going to be OK and find my way all right. However it wasn´t easy as the waymarkers are very difficult to spot in the dark woods - especially when the moon disappears behind the trees. At one point I came to an intersection in the forrest and for the life of me couldn´t find a way marker to direct me to the right or the left, no matter how hard I tried. I chose to go left and after a while I finally saw a way marker - what a relief! I think my pulse rate fell immediately to something near normal. My torch didn´t work that well either and became useless very quickly - no a very good to happen in the middle of nowhere.

However I obviously got through the night as I am sitting here writing by blog. I did get lost a couple of times and simply followed the highway to Santiago - at least I knew I was moving in the right direction, even thought it was pretty hard under foot and one needed to keep a close eye on the traffic.

Around 5.30 I watched the moon go down - quite a wonderful sight. I just stopped to watch and enjoyed the sight and the stillness around me. As soon the moon had disappeared the stars came out in full glory and the milkyway shone above the horizon with the mighty Canis Major to the North and Orion to the West taking the honours. Even though I am used to the the magnificant night sky in Australia, the northern sky is quite beatiful and the milkyway or Compostella lived up to its name - Santiago - just follow the milkyway and you will get there.

Today´s distance was rather long for me being almost 20 kilometers (and I guess the walking on the main highway didn´t help much) and towards the end I wondered when I would be there. However because I didn´t follow the Camino path as such and walked on the highway instead I missed completely a small village, which I had on my map called Santa Irene and was therfore pretty confused when I entered a settlement, no-one seemed t know the name of. However I finally spoke to a couple of Spanish girls with a little English, who told me it in fact was Arca da Pino (also known as Pedrouzo) and to go back and I would find the main street and the albergue. I was elated than I finally had reached my destination for the day. I went straight for an alburgue - it was still open or rather it hadn´t closed yet, as last night´s costomers, hadn´t all left yet. So in I went in and tried to explain to the lady, that I already - despite the time - had walked for 6 hours and just wanted a bed for tonight. However although she agreed to take my backpack, I am stranded in a small cafe until 12 noon, when the alburgue will open its doors - so at least I can get a warm cup of coffee and something to eat and most importantly keep warm - my t-shirt is not the recommended way of dress on this cool, misty morning - in fact it feels like a bit of a winter Melbourne morning and is cold-cold-cold!

As I have still got 22 minutes left on this internet - account, I will tell you a little about the number of pilgrims carrying pretty bad injuries at this stage of the Camnio. They are all peregrino, who have commenced their Camino during the last week or so and due to their limited holiday, walk themselved to the bone every day - leaving them with foot - ankle and knee injuries, similar to the one I suffered. However because we are so close to Santiago, no-one even considers to stop and take a rest, but rather crawl to the ´finishing line`, which can be a pretty sad sight as they shuffle along the path. (maybe they should take a detour to Lourdes)

Tomorrow´s walk will take me to a high spot overlooking Sandiago called Monte Gozo - just 5 kilometers from the cathedral. If it is a clear day, it will my first opportunity to sight the cathedral. In days gone by, the first pilgrim in a party who spotted the cathedral, had the honour to lead the party into the city and to the cathedral - however these days I belive Monte Gozo can be a bit of a circus - with an albergue housing more than 800 pilgrims - the first spot where everyone is housed together - ready for the shot walk the next day. There will be buses and tour cars arriving, providing the opportunity for the ´pilgrims´to finish their journey on foot - take a bow, will you? Oh! I am still judging other people´s Camino - something I should have learned by now not to do. But it proves that the Camino hasn´t converted me into a saint or similar - so Australia - you will get me back almost as I left you.

As I said yesterday, the Camino is almost like a really good book, which you don´t want to end - and I am afraid that tomorrow is the last full page of the book - only followed by a partly full page - but hopefully with the climax.

Writing this I had a SMS message from Laraine this morning, that reminded me, that life doesn´t stop because I am doing this Camino. Our very good friend through my 35 years in Australia, Effie, had died during her sleep during the night. Although it wasn´t unexpected, it brings one back to the reality of ´real life´ - with its joys as well as its sorrows.

I have to adimid that I on reaching Arca and beeing so close of reaching Santiago, I was feeling just a little sad and dissapointed, that I would be reaching this milestone alone, without friends to share this special moment with. However what the Camino has taught me once again - worrying is not something one ought to do. As I arrived I met a wonderful family from Iceland - yes I said Iceland - surely the only icelandic family on the Camino. They travelled - mum and dad and two sons - and had been on the road for 6 weeks - not a bad effort. Mum orgnaised a lovely luch before long and invited me to join them. We had a terrific time together and I had a discussion with dad, who had a senior position in the education system in Iceland. We discovered faily quicky, that the similarities in our two education systems, fare outweighted the differences, only emphazising that policitians are the same world wide in regard to what thay belive and from where they get their ideas.

Let me take this opprtunity to tell you a little about Iceland (the blog ought to be a little educational as well). There are only 300.000 people living in Iceland and it is the only country where the whole population has a documented family tree going all the way back the the time (year 900) where Eric the Red and his son Leif, inhabited Iceland, as part of the Vikings expansion policy. They still ahve a very old naming system in Iceland to this very day, where the sons and daughters get their father´s first name as their surname. Hence in my case - Steen would be called Steen Gunnarson and Farina Karina Gunnarsdottir and so on - no doubt where names such as Rasmus(son) and Jack(son) derives from.

Later in the afternoon I got another suprise as two scottich friends all of a sudden turned up again. (by this time I was sure that everone I had meet during the past couple of weeks, all had left me for dead- so to speak). It was great to see them again and Angela cooked a wonderful spanish omelette, with capsicum, tomatoes and onions and the bottle of red didn´t go astray either. We all decided to travel the same distance the next day, reaching Santiago on the Sunday morning.

The next morning brought a new aspect to my Camino travel, as the rain came tumbling down and I knew I had to get out and do the days walk in that weather. I put my rain cover on my backpack and my rain pontio over my head and out I went. As the path quicky went through a dark wooded area, I decided to follow close behind a group of iatlian pilgrims, who at least had a workable torch. For the first little while, I was careful where I put my feet to avoid the worst of the puddles - however it didn´t tale long before the rain intentified and a small river came flowing down the path, covering our legs well up to the angles. By that stage who cared and we all continued on, laughing and making light the wet conditions.

On this last leg the Camino passed the airport and the runway in very close proximity and I couldn´t help thinking that Laraine would be arriving there in just a few days. I am so looking forward to seeing her again after these six weeks. I took the opportunity for a cofee break in a small cafe near by - a welcome rest as well as an opportunity for a nice hot cup of coffee. As I resumed my jouney, I came upon an italian group, sitting in the rain, reading the Gospel and singing hymns - not a rare sight on this part of the camino, as especially many church groups from Italy, seem to have joined the Camino.

As I arrived at Monte Gozo, I had another huge supprise waiting for me. The woman I wrote about meeting in Astorga, (the Italian architect, now working in Barcelona) appeared and once again the Camino gave me a wonderful supprise. After all I was not going to Santiago without friends, whom I could share this special moment with. How lucky am I.

Week 5 Astorga and heading towards the Galician mountains

Leaving Arstoga was once again caught up with the bus drama, which seems to continue despite trying so hard to figure it out. Having examined the bus timetable the night before I was pretty certain what to do. I went to the bust stop from the previous day and sat patiently and waited for the bus, which was due to leave at 11.05am. At 10.55 an elderly Spanish couple came over to me and tried to explain something to me about the bus - none of which I could understand a word of. In desperation the old man then fetched his bycycle - gestured to me to pick up my backpack and follow him. He took me down the street and around a corner where to my surprise another bus stop appeared - obviously a bus stop for Sunday buses. What that nice or was that nice? What a spanish gentleman and a true friend of the peregrinos!

Not only did I get to the right stop, but 3 of my friends stood there and waited for the same bus - what a chance meeting - but that seems to happen again and again on this Camino. One can never be sure of who you will meet.

Arriving in Arstoga around mid day, I quickly found the albergue as I knew it was situated very near the cathedral, which wasn´t hard to miss. The albergue wasn´t the nicest I have been it and it accomodated almost 90 pilgrims per night. But I got my bed and was quite happy to play tourist for the next few hours.

Arstoga is a city with almost 15,000 people. It has served as a busy crossroad since Roman times for several important pilgrim routes and contains many historic buildings. The cathedral of St. Marta is beautiful and I was lucky to arive at 12 noon just as the Mass commenced. I am not sure if it was a special celebration, but there were 4 priests celebrating the mass as well as a priest with the role of a cantor. The cantor sang beautifully and one could be in no doubt it was a Spanish Mass as the flavour of the music and the style in which it was sung was very Spanish and particulrly beautiful and moving. I spotted quite a few pilgrims seated around the church which was nice to see. I am quite proud now as I can say PAZ at the sign of peace - not bad for me.

Opposite the cathedral one finds the famous Gaudi building known as the Bishop´s Palace - Palacio Episcopal - however no bishop lives there. Museum de los Camino is housed there and is a vey interesting collection of artifacts from the roman times of trading, pilgrims ect. I am very much looking forward to see Gaudi´s work in Barcellona - he also had a manificant building in Leon which I saw.

The afternoon I relaxed with a couple of girls I briefly had met in Leon - Vibeke from Oslo in Norway and Leonie from Berlin - both girls studying Physiotherapy in Holland as it is a cheeper option. They have had their ´student rounds´all over europe and I think this is another good example of what the European Market does in freeing up trade and the labour market. We ended up going to dinner and have some Tappas - garlic prawns, mixed salad with eggs and olives, potatoes in garlic and finally some lovely mushrooms - a little different but very lovely.

We decided to go elsewhere for our sweets as Astorga is a real chocolate centre of Spain - not sure why but you see chacolate everywhere and in all sorts of colours and shapes. We all bought something delicious and enjoyed the experience.

My two young German friends went out and had a good time, dancing the night away and I wandered if they ever would get in as the albergue close the door at at 10.30 - and I mean close! No excuses will open the door again - not even Aladdin´s secred chant. I asked the girls in the morning what time they came in and they told me 1.30am. I asked how they came in and one told me that she had climed the downpipe to reach the balcony and that way she had opened the front door for her friend.- Yes we often hear that boys will be boys - but now I think we safely can add that girls will be girls - you see these things happen when I am not there to guide them a little!!!

When I came back from dinner there was another supprise as Anna, a girl from America I had meet all the way back at Ventosa, when I first got injured, sat behind the desk signing newly arrived pilgrims into the the albergue. She smiled and said she had seen my name and just had waited to catch up with me. I asked what in heavens name she was doing there and she told me that she had a very bad tendonitis in her ankle and had been at this particular alburque for 8 days and had to stay for another 8 on doctors orders - so I feel I am no hard done by? At least I am now able to freely sight see and move around the cities with only a slight pain - Poor Anne could not move from A to B. When she is able to move again she will take the train to Santiago and thatwill be the end of her Camino - I can tell you that there are many ´tragic´ stories from the Camino as people break down suddenly - the body just telling them that it has had enough!

This morning the Camino reached what many believe is a climax - or at least one of the many important moments on the journey. The Camino is entering the highest point of the whole journey and as no bus goes throught these mountains - at least not the way the camimo does - I decided to take a taxi so I was able to follow the walkers all the way on this special day. I invited Anna to come along as it would give her a day out - she could then take the bus back again to the alburgue. She agreed to come, which made me happy as I had been able to do something to brighten up her camino a little.

We set out at 11am and slowly crept up in the mountains, observing walkers working hard to claim the hills.The nature started to change and some wonderful oaks started to appear. However as as the scrubs gradually became smaller and smaller and the pastures covering the mountain sides at the higher altitude started to become visible one really started to feel that this whole change of scenery was an impirtant time on the journey. Two kilometers from the highest pont, La Cruz de Ferro, I asked to be let out, as I wanted to walk the last couple of kilometers up to that important point. There was quite a few walkers around me and everyone seemed to be in a very reflective mood and very quite - each walking with their own thoughts and feelings. The La Crus de Ferro is a powerful symbol on the Camino - a place traditional perigrinoes will put a stone symbolizing the reason for their pilgrimage - maybe something hard they have had to deal with in their life - maybe a decision they have toiled with - maybe a broken relationship - maybe something completely different - but everyone is aware of the importantce of this moment as they stand under the simple cross on top of the stonepile, collected during centuries and quietly adding their small contribution to the story of mankind. A most touching moment and one I will remember for years to come.

I wonder if you can spot the handsome guy at the pole?

I guess I was lucky as I could jump back into the taxi, while the walkers had to make the very tiring and difficult journey down the mountain - and journey very hard on the legs and the joints. It was almost a 30 kilometer walk today and very hot - especially when some of the journey is on a the asphalt road - hot under foot with very little air. And as the walkers arrived late this afternnon, many didn´t look too good. I can assure you that there will be many sore bodies tonight.

The camino has changed a little I feel - as so many new pilgrims have joined the Camino from Leon onwards - people with only a couple of weeks holiday, whi then can reach Santiago within that time. The crowds are getting bigger, the albergues bigger and more noisy and people maybe a little less aware of each-others needs - and the numbers will increase every day from this point on.

The city of Ponferra which I now have arrived in is a fairly big city of almost 60.000 people. It has always been an important city in the mining game which has been part of these mouuntains since the middle ages - gold - iron and other valuable minerals, which since the earliest of times and civilisations have been important trading tools.

This is a picture of the albergue in Ponferra.

I have already been on my tourist tour and seen the Castillo de los Templarios, an old castle from around year 1200, built once again to protect the pilgrims as they went through these mountains. (if you get the impression that these pilgrims have been very important in these part of the world, you are right) The castle has during the last couple of years undergone serious renovations and the Common Market has been heavily involved in the project and I can see from the sign erected at the site, that both Norwey and Iceland have been great contributers to this particular project, which is good to see.

Having spent a fairly quiet afternoon (mainly writing my blog which took more than 2 hours) I went back to the albergue and decided to have a quiet evening and just read a book. It was an opportune time as I really didn´t know any of the other perigrinos and as I said, felt I just needed a quiet evening.

As I was reading a group of young people came and had dinner next to me and I couldn´t help hearing the Australian accent amongst the group. So, that was the end of the reading and all of a sudden I was introduced to this group of young people - 2 sisters from the Sunshine Coast - a German criminal investigator from Munich - an Intalian guy - a Swedish girl working in Gotenburg and finally two Spanish guys - quite an international group, don´t you agree? An hour or so later my friend and fellow school principal from Belgium came and got hold of a guitar and started to play - and could he play. He played the most fantastic blues and all of a sudden the whole place just gathered around us to listen and enjoy the music. It didn´t take long and we sang all sorts of songs, both Italian as well as Spanish - great evening which lasted to 10.30 when the hospitalier came and asked us all to go to bed. Once again a great night just happening (an old guy can´t even get peace just to sit and read - what a shame!)

This morning I started out early as everyone had to be on the road by 7.30am. Still dark I ventured out to find the Estacion Autobuses, which proved not that easy. The streets here in Spain - in a faily large city - at 7.30 in the morning - are absolutely deserted. Not a soul to be seen and only one or two cars venturing down the road. The Spanish time clock is quite diffrent from the rest of the world (I even include Italy in this). The city starts to wake up at around 8-8.30 - quiete slowly and in no hurry. Around 2 pm the shops close their doors and once again the streets become deserted. At 5pm the shops re-open and out of nowhere appear the human race once more - shopping, socializing, having a drink at the bar or just strolling in the street. At around 8.30 the bars and restaurants are overflowing with people eating dinner and not to make the evening end too early, we might get home to bed at around midnight. Who said the Spaniards are stressed? Not me!

The bus drove through a wonderful countryside today and the walkers would have had a wonderful trip towards the mountains and a difficult climb tomorrow. Villages seem to appear out of nowhere as we came around a hill and the ususal church-tower came into view.

The city (5000 people) Villafranca del Bierzo is surrounded by mountains (not quite as high as in the southern Europe) and very pretty. The streets are very steep and one has to climb either up or down streets and lanes covered with cobblestones, whereever one goes. The local market is here today and help me to paint a wonderful picture of this small city and its community.

There is a very famous pilgrim church - the Church of Santiago here in Villafrance, with a very famous side entrance facing north called Puerta del Perdon. The story goes that in olden days or maybe just in by-gone days, pilgrims that were not able to continue their journey to Santiago, crossing over the next mountain range (maybe because of bung kness) were able to receive a special blessing and absolution at this door, so they wouldn´t be condemmed for ever (just joking). Inside the church is a statue of St. James himself, dressed as a peregrino. Quiet a history.

The mountain ranges which are to be crossed tomorrow, are quite important for this region, as they determine much of the weather - especially the heavy and frequent rainfall, which can happen from now on. The mountains are the first obsticle the westerly winds, crossing the Atlantic Ocean meet and as such much rain falls between them and the Atlantac coast (quite similar to the weather conditions in and around Melbourne). Due to both this change in the weather as well as the location close to the the ocean, the diet changes to much heavier cuisine - thick soups, stews, and lots of sea food. I just passed a cafe packed with people all eating a plate of something, which looked like marinated pork cubes - but looking closer (without being rude) discovered that is was octopus (not quite ready yet). However it looked delicious and fresh and no wonder that the place was packed for lunch.

I have had some good news today as there is a small bus company providing a bus service for the next three days journey - something I wasn´t sure of. The bus tomorrow will leave at 8am and go to O´Cebreiro - but will leave me a little challenge, which I am sure I will be able to pass. I have to walk 5 kilometers with my backpack to get from the bus stop into the city - I guess that will be the challenge of the day (and I won´t be alone - yesterdays steep decent gave a lot of peole trouble with their legs and they will no doubt accompany me tomorrow). From O´Cebreiro there will be bus services to Tricastela (three castles) and further to Sarria, so I guess so far so good. What happens after Sarria I won´t even worry about.

Once again thanks for all your wonderful messages - I read them often and really enjoy your comments.

Had a quiet evening and just wondered around this very charming village. There are pilgrims everywhere and it is obviously a very popular stop for everyone. The various cafe´s are overflowing and people are just walking the narrow lane ways, looking at the local shops. As the main part of the village is down the valley, wherever you go is up and as the laneways are coubble stones, one has to look where one is walking. Tried to find the place from where the bus will be leaving tomorrow - however I haven´t been successful, so I will have a chat to the hospilero at the albergue - in esperanto I think! It is a very, very hot afternnoon and evning. I belive the temperature this afternnoon reached 45 degrees and that was in the shade. It was so hot I couldn´t even sit in the sun and read - and that´s hot! Imagine there are many, many piligrinos walking in this heat - not wonder they are exhausted when they arrive late in the afternnon - often to a albergue which has no more room - so they have to either find private accomodation or continue to the next village - or as a last option, sleep under the stars.

After a good night´s sleep, with open veranda doors - (definitly improves the quality of the air) I did find the way to the bus and found a few tired or wounded peligrinos waiting as well. Twins (I just corrected myself writing two twins - very imporessive) from the southern part of France as well as a girl from Greece - the first I have met from that country so far. The bus arrived and off we went, driving through some absolutely magnificent country, as we ventured deeper and deeper and higher and higher into the Galician mountains - quite breathtaking views. Finally arrived at a village called Pedrafita do Cebreiro, situated 5 kilometers from my distination of O´Cebreiro. Hence I ventured out for my first walk in quite sometime and was very much looking forward to it. It was 5 kilometers up and up and up - almost 500 meters - hence 1 meter up every 10 meters walking, which is quite a steep raise. However it went wonderfuly well and I so enjoyed the expereince of walking once again. As I already told you the views were magnificent, with the valley of Valcarce laying deep between the steep mountain sides, which seem to never stop. I counted the montain sides as far as I could and stopped at 11, each raising behing the one in front - more steeply - and diffrent colour - a different shape.

When I arrived at the top - 1350 meters in elevation (4300 feet) I found a very different looking village - obviolusly use to snow in winter as the roofs all had small special ´fences´to hold the snow from falling. The roofs were also made from either slate or straw and looked quite diferent from anything I have seen so far.

The first stop was the olderst church on the camino - Iglesie de Santa Maria Real - built around year 900. I took some time just sitting quietly reflecting on my Camino, listening to some quiet music playing in the background. I felt so at peace within myself and a deep sense of joy filled me. I guess four weeks away from the everyday stresses of life, one is able to sit quietly and just feel that sense of deep peace and joy and so very grateful that I have had this unique opportunity to experience this Camino. I lit a candle and placed it under a small statue of Mary and said a prayer of thanks for being loved by so many people - especially my wonderful family. I am truly a lucky man!

I have already told about the huge numbers of perigrinos at this stage of the Camino. When I arrived at the albergue at 12 noon there were already almost 80 people waiting for a bed - amongst these a number of groups from Italy with many young people from various parishes. These groups travel the Camino over a couple of weeks and hence put lots of stress on the available places for accommadation. But easy - I have been told that it will get even busier the closer to Santiago I get. Can´t wait!

During the afternnon I found a small bar to get some lunch. I ordered my usual beer and a plate of specially prepared fish and mushrooms - delicious. However as I was sitting with my beer waiting for lunch to be served, I was presented with you know what - the Galician delicacy of octopus . looking quite harmless yes one may say, even delicious - white meat with a redish surround. I was also pleased that it looked quite dead so I counted to ten and chose a piece without any obvious octopus charateristics - and in it went! I chewed - and I chewed - and I chewed - the taste not bad but the thought! It somehow came alive in my mouth and I thought of Jules Vernes novels - and his mastery description of the giant octopus - and just swallowed the beast. What a CAMINO MOMENT! I did it! The local guy standing next to me just laughed and ate two peaces at once just to prove a point.

When I returned I just sat quetly and marvelled at the surrounds - completely encircled by mountains as far as I could see. If one can´t feel the power of creation at moments such as these, one ought to be dead. As I sat there the weather changed in a matter of minutes and black clouds came rolling in and before long it started to rain. The smell of the rain as it touched the ground was so sweet and just added to the whole sensation of this wonderful moment.

Let me get back to the bus saga, becaused it seems never to end. When getting off the bus this morning, I enquired ( or the French twins did it for me) that I was to catch another small bus the follwing morning to Triacastela at 7am from the same bus stop. Great I thought - finally some clear talk.

So this morning I got up at 5am to start my downhill venture down the mountain to be at the bust stop at Pedrrafita do Cebreiro. Pitch dark and completely surrounded by thick mist or fog - like walking in a cloud - and may I say not too warm(remember I discarded my rain jacket in Ventoso to lighten to load).

However once again it was a wonderful feeling - just to be out there on your own even through I could anly see approx. 3 meters in front of me and had absolutely no sence of moving as I had no reference point. It was just like walking on the spot, with the only noice being my walking poles. Quite a strange sensation. At one point I thought ¨I hope the clicks from the walking poles don't sound like some animals mating call - that´s all I need on this deserted mountain side¨. However the silence was something quite spectacular as when I stood still, the silence was absolute - one alone in the universe. The trip took a little over 60 minutes and was quite steep and as always - downhill is harder for the legs than an uphill walk. It became lighter as I approached the village and the sky started to change colour to the most beautiful pale pink one could imagine.

After a mix-up regarding the right bus-stop (not where I got off the bus yesterday morning - would be too easy or logical) I finally found the stop 100 meters down the road. Relieved I sat down and yes - I was supprised as the bus drove up the montain from where I had just walked down. What is it with these Spanish bus companies? However the drive this morning to Tricastelia was wonderful, the bus following the small roads, meandering though the mountains, covering the various small villages. Once again the scenery was breathtaking and one could only be in awe of such beauty. As I arrived it was only just after 8 am and I already had received the daily sms message from Laraine, wishing me a good day. Still cold from my early journey I walked straight into a cafe and ordered myself breakfast, with a strong, hot cup of coffee. Enjoying this moment of heavenly bliss - I heard the old mother tongue again and fell in talk with a Danish couple doing their second camino as in many years. Had it changed them? Definitly as they had had a sea change and moved to another part of Denmark to a quieter and more fulfilling life. I will spend my day here in this village and expect to see the hordes arriving in a couple of hours taking over this quiet place. I have already found out that they are celebrating a special perigrino´s mass at 7pm tonight, so I will definitely join in that celebration. Until next time - Bien Camino

The Mass was wonderful and the small church was overflowing with pilgrims from all over the world. Once again I was not able to understand word by word what was being said but nevertheless it was a wonderful atmosphere and celebration. The priest gave the following reflection out, which I would like to share with you.

The Camino....the way....the road

What is the ´Camino¨?

Are we walking to achieve human and spiritual objectives?

Are we searching on the culture of the little villages along the way?

Or is it a sport? Tourism? A holiday?

The ´Camino¨is not for simple tourism"; the physical effort is worthy of higher things.

On the ´Camino´you can seek and find yourself.

On the ´Camino¨you can find brotherhood through shared vision, projects and plans.

On the ´Camino¨you live amongst others.

You climb a stairway of values, the good and the bad.

Getting to know yourself, you can get to know Jesus Christ.

The ´Camino´was born from the faith of our ancestors, who were seeking something;

The clear aim of Faith is to express our inner selves, the life within us.

The´Camino´is universal; throughout the world there are those who think it is better to exclude others; the ´Camino´shows us otherwise.

On the ´Camino´you need -

To believe that humans have more virtues than vices.

To accept that those mistakes we make along the way are only signs of our humanity.

To carry on along the road, although at times we fall; by rising up, you learn.

To belive through love, and not from fear. If you have fear, you may not love.

To believe freely - Faith is not a burden.

Not to be slaves but to accept love.

If you sense love, you will sense all that is around you.

There are marks and signs along the ´Camino¨, but you must seek for directions within yourself.

All those on the ´Camino´must along the way, seek to help Jesus Christ in his task in working for a better world.

Parroquia De Santiago Perigrino

De Triacastela, Galacia. España

Parroco Augusto Losada Lopez

Quite wonderful and thought provoking I thought, as the ´Camino´is so hard to describe. Just as I waited to get into the internet cafe this afternoon to write this latest report, two spanish school teachers were waiting to get in (one was born in England which made the conversation a little easier) and we discussed why the Camino is so special - why we were having this conversation, as in ´real life´ we would never even have started the conversation. It is one of the most powerful effects the Camino has on people. Quite special and wonderful.

Otherwise last evening I had a very interesting conversation with a young spanish girl from the northern part of Spain, who spoke about not beeing from Spain but from the Basque Country. She felt very strongly that this part of Spain, consisting of 7 regions - 4 in Spain and 3 in southern France - had a claim on independance and supported the political fight to achieve this. She explained that the movement had become strong, especially follwing Franco, who had supressed the Basque culture and language for many years ( similar to Catalonien north of Barcelona). It hit home to me how little we generally know about world affairs and the problems people in different regions of the world face on a daily basis.

I arrived in Sarria this morning, not quite sure if I would get any accomodation in this city, as the rumours had gone out last evening, that all beds already had been taken. However I found one, but there is no doubt that the crowds have started to ascent on the Camino. Sarria s the last starting point for peole who wishing to obtain a Compostela - a special certificate for pilgrims who have walked at least 100 kilometers on the way to Santiago.

Sarria is also the last big city before Santiago, approx. 13.000 and I found a much needed bank and a hole in the wall, to get a few more Euros, before the final stretch.

You might have picked up that my social life somewhat has quietened down the last two days and there is something in that. With the large groups of people coming in, it is much harder for everyone travelling on their own, to make contact, as people in groups seem to stick together.

And just as I started to feel a little hinch if fustration, the lovely Eithlin from Ireland, who I spoke about at least two weeks ago (she left me a book and an apple - that one) all of a sudden walked past me and what a wonderful is was to see a know face. We share lunch together and spoke about the crowds and how it had impacted on the Camino. As we sat there, one after an other peregrino came by and said ´hello Gunnar ´ and Eithlin asked me - Are you some kind of UN deligate on this Camino, or what was your problem with people not speaking to you. (however I have to add that the hello´s came from peole I only have ´slept ´with and never had a meaningful conversation with - just clarifying)

Despite doctors advice I have decided to give the walking another try and will start tomorrow morning, cutting the daily task in half and as such walk approx. 10 kilometers instead of the 20 and see how I go. I really hope and pray that I will be able to get on the road again and who knows, make it all the way to Santiago. Wouldn´t it be wonderful (and save me from having a go at the Spanish bus system). If you all say a little prayer for me, I am sure it will be OK.