Week 7 - Santiago - reaching the destination

Sunday morning, everyone, all 800 pilgrims filling this final albergue, were quiet and reflective, as everyone knew that in just an hour, we would be reaching the end point of our journey - whether it has taken 6 weeks or maybe only 1 week.

We decided ( my friends and I) to walk this last part of the Camino together as a group and started this final part of our journey at 8am, so we would have a few hours in Santiago, before the 12 o´clock pilgrims Mass.

We walked slowly, savouring each step and each in our own thoughts. As the cathedral came into view and we entered through the final Portico de Gloria, we finally arrived in front of the west entrance to the cathedral and the Plaza do Obradoiro, and quietly stood on the zero marker for the pilgrimage, each quietly contemplating our own unique and individual journey to this spot.
Here are Raymond and Angela from Scotland as well as Barbara from Bologna.

In this pucture we are just to enter the West Plaza of the cathedral, where one finds the ZERO marker for the Camino. No-one really wanted to go through the gate first, as we didn´t want it to come to an end.

We entered the cathedral during the normal Sunday Mass and took the opportunity to walk behind the High Alter, ascend the stairs and put our hands on the shoulders of the Apostle James and say a quiet prayer, after which you descend into a crypt to kneel before a casket containing the relics of the great saint and once again pray quietly. It is a very special and reflective moment and one that is very hard to put into words. So much has gone into getting to this moment . So much hardship and physical endeavour - so many special moments - so many lessons learned - all trying some how to be encapsulated in such a moment.

We then went to the Pilgrims Office Oficina del Piligrino in Casa do Dean, to obtain our Compostella - a special certificate, acknowledging that you have completed the Pilgrimage. We had to wait approx. 45 minutes before it became our turn, but as we left, the waiting period would have been hours and I was grateful that we had arrived fairly early, to avoid the huge masses of pilgrims arriving every day.

It was then time to find a bed for the night, and as I am going to stay in Santiago for a few nights, I decided to find a hotel room, where I can get settled and be comfortable. I just had time to book in and then hurried back to the cathedral in time for the 12 o´clock pilgrims mass. It was quite an overwhelming experience. Just imagine a church with almost 2000 pilgrims, from all over the world, arriving on the particular day and time, sitting or standing in every corner of the church. Talking about an excitement one almost can touch. The Bishop of Santiago, following at least a dozen priests, addressed the congregation in no less than 6 languages and the daily list of pilgrims - where they commenced their journey and from where in the world they came, was read out as part of the Mass. I was the only Australian/Danish pilgrim in the Church at this particular Mass, which made me feel pretty special.

Just to give you an idea of the amount of pilgrims arriving in Santiago each day - as we left the Mass there would have been at least 500 pilgrims standing outside the Church, waiting to enter. It is quite amazing numbers and they arrive each day throughout the year (even though the summer months obviously are the most travelled)

Last evening we all went out and had a meal and a few drinks and also quite a few goodbyes as everyone now commenced their journey back from where they came - a very peculiar feeling and sensation - for many of these people have shared a unique experience for a time in their lives - and now somehow have to return - however always remembered by what they contributed on the journey in sharing their stories, supporting you when it became tough and hence became part of your story and experience.
Here Barbara gives Angela a big hug - just wanted to clarify for Bruno that the gray hair doesn´t belong to me!

I spent the next couple of days in Santiago, enjoying just walking around quietly and to somehow get in touch with all the many impressions this final destination had offered. I enjoyed the comfort of a small hotel room and the knowledge that I didn't need to find a bed for the night (a little comfort goes a long way - especially after almost 6 weeks on the road). I also took this time to find out the details of Laraines arrival - how to get to the airport by the airport bus and yet again find out the bus schedule. I also walked to the hotel, Hespirio Perigrino (organised from Australia) situated about 30 minutes away from where I was staying, orgainising to leave my backpack there on the Thursday morning, before going to the airport to pick up Laraine. I also went to Europe Car Rental to make sure they had a car ready for us for Saturday morning. It was lucky, that I decided to do this, as they informed me that my booking, which I had made from Australia, was completely unknown to them, and as such, would have meant, that no car would have been available for us.

Despite thinking that I had run of pilgrim friends, I kept running into people I knew - pilgrims who might have been in Finisterra for a few days before returning to Santiago for a last look. I found my Belgian principal friend sitting quietly outside the cathedral on the Tuesday and we decided to go to the Pilgrims Mass together, to complete our journey together - a very special time and celebration. At this Mass they swung the huge incense burner, which was suspended from the ceiling high above the altar from side to side, almost touching the cathedral roof maybe 80 meters above the congregation - quite a spectacular sight and controlled by no less that 6 priests, all hanging on to ropes - pulling and letting go in unison - quite a spectacle.

Wednesday was a glorious day with bright sunshine (the first such day since arriving in Galicia almost 2 weeks ago) and I decided to take to bus to Finisterra to experience this final destination for many pilgrims. The bus ride almost took 3 hours and followed the Atlantic coast for most of the way - past fishing villages, that for centuries had developed the specialised skills needed to havest not only the fish and octopus, but the vast array of shellfish living in these waters and tidal pools. The tide along this coast is quit spectacular with a movement between high and low tide somewhere between 6-8 meters. At low tide the boats are all morooned on the sand like beached whales - but that is not an excuse to rest. Hundreds of woman can be seen on the sand banks, digging for all sorts of shell fish, which no doubt will be on the dinner tables around Spain and Europe that very evening. A German man sitting behind me on the bus, now living in Madrid, was my tour guide on the trip and kept me informed of all sort of interesting facts and figures. Hence Spain like so many other parts of the world is suffering from lack of rain and especially Barcelona is in trouble. He also told me that this wonderful coastline just a few years back ahd been awash with oil, coming from a stricken tanker split in half off the cost and had made everyone unemployed for more than 12 months along the coast, while cleaning the mess up.

Finisterra - the end of the earth - was the most westerly point in the known world until Columbus managed to find America - was quite spectacular. To reach the lighthouse one has to endure a 5 kilometer up-hill walk, but I was quite prepared for this last sacrifice, as part of my Camino. I hitched up with an American physicist doing research at Yale University, and as such she became my last perigrino companion on my journey.


The landscape of this cape or outcrop was spectacular (even for me, used to seeing quite spectacular coastlines along the Australian south and east coast) and I found it a very special place to be - providing a wonderful place just to sit and reflect and come to terms with the finality of this day and this journey.
I am sitting at the ZERO marker for the Camino and enjoying the wonderful view and achievement.

Watching a little television in the evening after my dinner (Spanish time between 8-10pm) and thinking about meeting Laraine at Santiago Airport the next day, the news flash about the terrible crash in Madrid Airport late in the afternnon, where more than 150 people had died, filled the screen. Terrible news at any time, but especially just hours before your wife is going to arrive in that very airport. I really hoped that she would have no knowledge of this disaster, as it no doubt would unsettle her. I arrived in Madrid Airport on time to pick her up and wasn't suprised to find that her flight had been delayed. At midday everyone observed a minutes silence and it was eerie to stand in an airport, normally filled with the noise of excited travellers, go silent for what seemed a long time. Laraine's flight landed approx. 15 minutes later and it wasn't long before I spotted her coming out from the arrivals lounge - what a special moment after being on the road for almost 7 weeks and only really been in touch via SMN's messages during this time.

I had already decided that the best way of giving Laraine some kind of insight into the Camino, was to take her to the cathedral and just watch the pilgrims, as they arrived at this end point of their journey - watch their faces - their tears - their smiles - the pain as some walked these last few steps. I know these faces touch Laraine very deeply and she somehow touched, at least part of this unique journey and expereince. We went to the Pilgrims Mass together and once again I am sure this expereince and opportunity to celebrate and give thanks, helped her to put not only my Camino, but also in many ways her's, into some larger perspective.

As I am trying to reflect on my Camino, I am not sure how to put it into words. One thing I am sure of is, that it has been a unique experience, that will stay with me for the rest of my life and somehow help shape how I look upon life and the way I live it.

I am very grateful to the people in the Catholic Education Office, Melbourne, who believed that this project was a genuine proposal for Enrichment Leave - and I hope no-one will ever doubt the huge effect this journey will have on any individual principal, contemplating this journey . It goes to the very core of who you are as a person - your spiritual life as well as your physical life - and will effect your capacity to perform in your job as principal in a significant way.

Also thanks to my wife, Laraine, who always has trusted and supported me on this journey - encouraging and believing in me and giving me the opportunity to grow and discover more deeply who I am as a person. Thanks to Steen and Karina and also to Simone - you were all such an important part of this journey and I spent many hours with you individually, as I travelled through the wonderful and ever changing landscape of the Camino. And to my wonderful grand children, Mikaila, Dana and Ally of whom I often spoke and shared their part in my life.

And finally thanks for all the messages from family and friends, from the kids and teachers from St. Charles - you were all very much part of this journey and because so many pilgrims at this time of the year were in the teaching profession, you were often a source of conversation.

Where to from here? The Camino has been completed (I am after all in Santiago, completing this blog) but I am sure my Camino has only just started in a number of ways, as I in the coming days, months, years, reflect and work through the many, many special memories , which became part of me on this Camino - The Way of St. James.