Week 4 Corrion De Los Condes into Leon

What a start to the week - hitching a ride with a mad Englishman, living in Portugal and transporting furniture from Spain to England via a ferry from the north of Spain. Nevertheless what a godsend and I took full advantage of this ride out of the end of the world - Fromasta.

As we started out at 7am I already arrived at my destination at 7.20am and tried to get my bearings in this new place - Corrion De Los Condes - now with a population of 2500 but in more important times it was 10,000.

Found my way to the albergues - in fact two, both run by an order of nuns, but first opening at 12 noon. So what does a lonely figure do in a strange place on an early Sunday morning - of course, spotting a couple of girls emerging form the distance. It happend to be two Danish girls and they invited me for morning coffee at the local bar and we enjoyed each others company for an hour or so. I then went to see the church next to the albergue, which I had decided to stay in.

I arrived at 8.40, sat down quietly and behold me from the back of me the most beautiful singing or chanting commenced. I sneeked a little look and was surprised to see the nuns ( approx 19 of them) sitting behind a iron fence, singing this chant - all in one tone, whilst the organ accompanied them. It was so beautiful and so reflective and something which I never had experienced before. As the mass commenced - I had forgotten all about it was a Sunday morning - the church filled up and I just sat there and tried to take it all in. The part normally taken up by lay people in Australia,was all done by the nuns - still from behind the church, so at no time were they visible to the congregation. Certainly a special mass and a very special event and celebration.

The order living in this monastery was the Sisters of St. Caire and this particular monastery was commenced in 1055 and St. Francis is said to have stayed there on one of this pilgrimages. The facilities were OK and one of the features was a wonderful court yard, where one could sit and reflect on the day.

At midday I wandered up the main street and was met by hellos and cuddles as I had caught up with both Caroline from the USA and Bradley. We all had a great afternoon, until these two lovely companions, who I have travelled with on and off for almost a week, caught the bus to Leon and probably will be out of sight for the rest of the Camino. I guess goodbyes are never easy, especially on the Camino where people seem to be able to build rather special relationships in such a short time.

Harvest times has arrived in these parts of Spain and the tractors and other machinery are working 14 hours not stop, to take advantage of the fine and dry weather. Sitting in the cafe yesterday afternoon, I estimated that they moved at least 150,000 tons of wheat through the small village - not a bad effort. Here in Spain only small trucks are allowed to be on the road on Sundays -hence yesterday's effort was solely done by tractors with a hanger. Already this morning I saw much heavier trucks at work, carrying more than 30 ton per load. The harvest has changed the landscape markedly - it has somehow become dull and lifeless. No more are the the many shades of gold visible, as the wind moves the straw around. During these last two days,apart from the wheat,one also sees sugar cane as well as the wonderful sight of sun-flower fields, scattered throughout the landscape. No wonder so many people fall in love with these wonderful flowers, following the sun throughout the day.

Despite my knees are improving, (oh, not my knees again) I have decided not to even try to walk again until after Leon in approx. 3 days time. Hence, I still try to bus each stage everyday - something not that easy, as the buses don´t necessarily follow the Camino.

However this morning I arrived at Sahagun -a very important seat of ecclesiastical power in medieval times.Once again there are a number of churches in this city, famous for either their architecture or history. I found a nice albergue, where the internet is free, so I am taking this opportunity to get up to date with my diary. On arriving, I once again caught up with my Belgian principal friend, so we will together go to the village and explore the sites. I have already found out that my bus for the next leg, departs at 9,15am from the other end of the village ( a 15 minute walk I guess and a small trial for my legs). The next leg on the Camino will be Mansilla de la Mulas, the last stop before Leon. (By the way I have passed the halfway point of the Camino and still finding every day so very special and a wonderful gift.

By the way, thanks to everyone who has been sending me messages. I really enjoy reading them and they make me feel very loved and appreciated. I am also happy that this diary somehow is able to convey my trip - something I can assure you, is very difficult indeed. It is definitely a once in a lifetime experience, as it is not that often we have this opportunity to say ´hello´to oneself and ask some hard questions like -´who the h... are you and what are you on about´?

I have arrived safely in Mansilla de los Mule (saddles for donkies I think it means) this morning fairly early, so I will give you an account of the last 24 hours or so.

I went to the Turismo Office to ask what time and from where I could catch the bus. Bus, she said - we have no buses going from this town. I tried to explain that I had just arrived in one and that I knew it was continuing to Mansilla and Leon - but no luck. She told me that I could try to ring the bus company, but she didn´t have the number. What service!! When I told everyone back at the aubergue the story, they all laughed. By the way this is the third time the Turismo office haven´t had a clue about the transport to and from the area in which they work. Quiet incredible.

After this I ventured out in the village and believe it or not got lost several times in the small streets and paths. Using a map is fairly difficult as the villages are not made like a grid as we find it in Melbourne, but in and out - up and down - so one wonders where one is very quickly.

I met up with a new group pf people late in the afternoon, so here goes.

Guiseppe came from Firenze (Florence) and spoke the most beautiful, melodic Italian I think I have ever heard. He worked in a bank but I am sure he could have delivered Hamlet in great style.
Marcus was 34 years of age and came from Barcelona and a really great guy. He was going to meet his girlfriend in Leon and had walked 50 kilometers a day to be there on time. ??? Finally his legs had enough and he decided to have a bit of a rest day yesterday and took the bus with me this morning. Isabella came from Turin in nothern Italy and spoke as quickly as anyone I have heard. She rode the Camino on a bike and told us a funny story, that she had been lost on one of the highways, when a police helicopter had appeared above her, followed her for a while, before landing in front of her - all that just to show her the right way. (I am sure the police in no way are associated with the Turismo office - what do you think?) Then there was Bruno from Bremen in the nothern part of Germany. He didn´t say much - in fact I didn´t find out that he was German until pretty late - but he was a terrific cook.

After this brief introduction to this group of people - once again just thrown together as part of the Camino - we occupied the kitchen and all together cooked a wonderful meal - a variety of pastas - some with tomatoes and garlic - others with tuna and olives - bruchetta (don´t ask me about the spelling) with garlic, olive oil and tomatoes (there was definitely and art to making this ) and a wonderful mixed salad. We all had a terrific time together and wished each other well for the journey ahead.
Todays stretch would have been a tough walk for everyone. It was a hot day and the countryside was flat as a pancake - with no shade - no food - no villages and most importantly no water´- just a path pointing in the right direction. So much of the Camino in the Leon Region just follows the N121 highway - not the most reflective or comfortable environment to walk in.

Mansella is a busy town for the pilgrims as two different paths meet here - the Camino Frances (which I am following) and the Caldaza de los Perigrinos starting in the southern part of Spain - hence the albergue here is a pretty busy place but with a wonderful warm atmosphere - mainly created by Bruno, (originally from Bonn in Germany) who has looked after this place for the past 12 years. It has all facilities including a delightful central patio where a large fig tree oversees the many wonderful meetings between people and wonderful conversations which take place here.

I arrived here with a large group of French peregrines - so at the moment I don´t believe I will be involved in any sort of interesting conversation (people travelling in a group are fairly difficult to get in contact with as they tend to speak their native tongue all of the time). However a couple just arrived from Canada, so I´m sure I will be OK.

I have already been investigating the Estacion Autobusses so I am ready to catch a bus around 10am tomorrow for my leg to Leon. However I am sure there will be yet another account from tonight, which I will relay sometime tomorrow. Until then - Bien Camino!

Yes I was right again - I am not quite sure why something good always seems to happen out of the blue, when you least expect it. I did feel a little left out on a limb with the French brigade around me, so I had a siesta for an hour or so and then decided to go for a small walk. I ran into a guy from Belgium, who I had met the day before - a film maker from Brussells, who had completed the Northern Camino along the sea last year and had then decided to do the French leg this year. We had a couple of Cafe con Hielo (not sure of the spelling, but must have pronounced it OK as she didn´t look like a questionmark when I did the order) - a cup of strong coffee which you tip over in a glass filled with ice cubes - sort of an ice coffee. Quite nice on a hot Spanish afternoon.

Wandered back to the albergue and stopped to say hello to a Scottish couple I had met briefly as they signed in to the alburgue. They were sitting having a drink with another man, who turned out to be from Montreal in Canada, where he had been a speech writer for a number of ministers in the Canadian government over a number of years. And that was the start to the most interesting, challenging, informed discussion, which I have experienced for a long, long time. His name was Claude Leblond and he had started his Camino in Puy - 450 kilometers into France - so he had already been part of the Camino quite a long way.

Not being able to convey the conversation in a way possible on this blog, just let me take you through some of the topics we covered.

The Common Market or as he preferred to call it the European Community and its importance as a model for the world to follow. He was of the opinion that most people in Europe didn´t fully understand the importance or the vision of this political model, which in very few years, had changed the map of Europe - reconciled old enemies - not just in regard to cooperation but to become close partners in a number of important areas- such as having a common monetary policy, making the market much more stable. He also argued that the impact the union had had on lower performing economies which had seen enormous changes in countries such as Spain, Italy, Poland and, raising the living standard in these countries considerably.

Other interesting discussion points were:

• The role of the press in world and local politics - the as he called it the Q&A dimension of the political machine - the number of civil servants employed to imagine questions or issues the press might run with and work on the possible answers needed .
  
• India and China and how these emerging super powers might play out their new position in world politics and economy.
  
• The sexual revolution in the sixties and the impact on especially the male, who in many ways had lost his identity as a male as role models were hard to find.
  
• We also spoke about the uniqueness of the conversations which seem to happen on the Camino. ´We are all travelling on the same passport, ¨( our Camino Credential) which in a unique way makes everyone belong and hence, somehow we all speak the same language.
  

To give you a bit of a picture of what happens I will relay the following. This morning just woken up and sitting on the bunk-bed, rubbing eyes and looking at Marcus from Barcelona - he out the blue started talking about his girlfriend in Barcelona (single mother with two children) and the issues he had to work through and consider in this relationship, (at this point my feet haven´t even touched the ground). He continued to speak about how different the male and female roles are in Barcelona, compared with the villages which we encounter on the Camino, where the social structures in many ways are as old as the village itself. He continued to reflect on the nature of the Camino - is the Camino the way to live your life - simple and with not much baggage - or is it simply a way of reflecting on what is important in ones normal life and make changes ? I am sure you will agree - pretty deep thinking first thing in the morning - but then we all live the Camino 24 hours a day and I often find myself waking up at 4am, reflecting on the conversations which have taken place - just to try to make sense of them and fit them into the whole experience.

We finished the evening with a meal cooked by the Scottish couple - curry and rice - a real home cooked meal, which was nice. So surprise, surprise - even in the presence of a French invasion, I ended up having a pretty special evening - once again!

Got the bus to Leon and wasn´t that sorry for not walking today, as the Camino on a whole followed the highway and had a pretty long stretch of walking through the suburbs before reaching the old part of the city, where the arbergue is to be found. It is part of the Benedictine Order (monastero de la Benedictinas) and houses approx. 45 nuns, who look after the place with much love and care.

Leon was at one time a Roman military garrison and base for its VIIth legion - hence the name Leon derived from Legion. Much of the city is still surrounded by the old defence system in the form of a wall - quite impressive and one can easily imagine soldiers being placed high on the wall in between the openings - there must have been some great battles taking place in this area.

When arriving in a large city sightseeing is of course on the agenda, and the first thing to see in Leon is of course the famous Cathedral Santa Marie with more than 125 beautiful stained glass windows, depicting various stories from the bible - an important way of teaching the gospel stories to people, who couldn´t read or write. Although it is a beautiful church, I find the Benectine Chapel much easier to find stillness in - these big impressive cathedrals are far too busy for me - gold and carvings everywhere - not in my opinion a place for prayer and reflection.

During the afternoon I went to the local hospital to get yet another opinion regarding my knees. It was a most unpleasant experience as I sat in front of the doctor who spoke Spanish and I spoke English (and never shall these two meet). I had asked a young Spanish boy to write an account of my health in English, just to help paint the pictute for the doctor - but she was and remained quite disinterested, so in the end I just stood up (making sure she could see how much agony I was in ) and simply left - I must admit, with a rather low spirit.

In the evening I went to the Vespers in the convent chappel, followed by Mass. The Vespers were different to the ones I had experienced in Carrion de los Condes, but equally as beautiful - the ´lead singer´for a better word, was a frail 75 year old nun, who sang with the clearest, strongest voice I have heard for a long time (I know my family will laugh when I compared it with Enja´s voice - but it was a pure and beautiful). The mass which followed was concelebrated by 3 young priests from France and was a wonderful celebration as well. The Spanish priest, although I couldn´t understand him, was a great orator and I was quite facinated just listening to him as he delivered the homily.

The evening finished by Claude and I going to a restaurant a class up from our normal pilgrims meals, and we really enjoyed it. I had (once again fresh asparagus) followed by salmon baked in pastry - a real nice combination and one I will try at home. Speaking about the cuisine - changes are taking place as we move across the Spanish continent. Here in Leon we are being introduced to more fish and seafood in general and yesterday when I had a cold beer, they gave some calimari to go with it. (I promise I will try it before coming back to Australia, but I am still building up courage). So even a day when I did feel a little low, it ended up being another good day, spent with celebrations, reflections and good friends.

On this last day in July, I decided to spend another day in Leon and have moved into Hostel Albany, just across from the cathedral - not a bad place. When leaving the albergue this morning I overheard another pilgrim saying that he was on the way to Leon central Hospital, where his wife had been admitted and had had an operation. I decided to go with him in the hope that this most important hospital in Leon at least would have a look at me. It took almost 45 mnute to get there by bus, but I found it and I must say, that despite of the language difficulties, everyone did their very best and we all had a few laughs along the way. I saw a doctor, had x-rays taken and was hapy that at last my problem was looked into. The diagnosis didn´t suprise me - acute tentanidis of both knees and NO MORE WALKING ON THE CAMINO. At least I know now and can in my mind prepare the rest of my camino with the help of the Spanish bus companies. I am ademant that despite this set back, I will continue to get the best possible experiences from my CAMINO, and NO WALKING ain´t going to spoil that. I suppose there is still that quiet voice in my head that taunts me regarding being in control. I was going to do this walk - I prepared the best I could and nothing was going to stop me. I guess the Camino had the last say as so many people expereince either in a physical, emotional or spiritual way. The faces you meet on the way tell their own story - from a deep joy and peace to deep pain.

Spoke briefly with Laraine to tell her of the result and to speak with her about her last day at TCF - a big change in her life - a closure as well as a new beginning. Was great to hear her voice and I can´t wait to see her on the 21st August.

Last evening I was suprised to catch up with a number of friends from Sahagun, who just came strolling past me as they came to see the cathedral. It is almost like seeing family - quite a unique experience. Stories are told, lots of laughts and the introduction of new pilgrims who have joined the group along the way. Guiseppe was there and they told him that despite not undertanding a word, I was in great awe of the way he spoke the Italian language. Lots of laughing at that one! I hope I will catch up with this group again in a couple of days as they are all good fun to be with.

This morning, Friday the first of August, I will go to the Estacion Autobusses and inquire of the possibilities to move along the Camino in not too many large steps. I think I will be OK for a couple of days. After that I am not sure, as the Camino then enters the Galician Mountains and the highest point on route - almost 1600 meters or almost 5000 feet - a part of the journey which evidently is very beautiful and one I so would have loved to expereince. However I am hopeful that I will continue to put the Spanish bus companies to the test and find a way to crawl along.

I continued along the journey and arrived at Valladongos del Paramo, a small village which you reach if you walk the alternative route of today´s leg. The albergue was easy to find as it was placed as you arrive in the village. Not particularly great but a bed for the night and a chance to catch up yet again with a few friends from the Camino and relax the parts of the body which need a little tender love and care. A local podiatrist visited the albergue late in the afternoon and she was very popular indeed - not for her looks but obviously she had some skills which came in very handy on this part of the journey.

We were a small group who decided to cook dinner together as it both much cheaper as well as a lot of fun. Guiseppe was the main chef suggested a pasta with zuchini and bacon, so away we went shopping for the ingredients - easy you might think - but you are not in Spain with a young girl behind the counter, who only speaks Spanish. Can you imagine the circus trying to explain that we wanted zuchini and we intertained the whole shop in the process. At last she left the shop and came back with two large zuchinis - you can imagine the uproar and everyone clapped. What a spectacle. However the dinner went well and was delicious and was enjoyed by all.

I met a spanish lawyer from Barcelona called Stephanie, who spoke English very well and promised to help me look at the internet and find out when the bus would depart the following morning. After much searching we, or rather she, worked out that the bus would be there at 9.50 and 10.50. So this morning I ventured to the bus stop in plenty of time and stood in the sun waiting...and waiting ... and waiting and for some unknown reason got a bit hot under the collar. What is it with bus timetables in this country? It finally arrived at 10.33 so on I went to a place called Hospital De Orbigo, a journey of only 15 kilometers. However, it is the most wonderful albergue I have booked in to - a real home away from home. The feeling one gets in the various albergues are quite different and very much dependent on the hospitaliers, who are running the places. However, I know I will be very comfortable here tonight. The place is full of artwork as one of the things they do here is to give everyone some paint and ask them to make a painting of their impression from the Camino - not a bad idea and judging from the many paintings around the place, some peregines are quite impressive artists. As I sit writing this blog I am listening to a CD with Danish - yes Danish songs and artists - no wonder I feel at home.

A couple of German girls told me that they passed a swimming pool on the way into the village, so I think that´s where I will where I will spend the afternoon - not due to the girls but a big swim would just be wonderful and help loosen up those sore muscles.

And that was excactly what happened. The pool like everything in the afternoon pretty much deserted put what a wonderfuñ facilñity in such a small community. Fiurst of all I had to borrow a normal size towel to take with me and when I arrived at the pool I was told that I needed a bathing cap, if I wished to swim. A little charm and they girls gave me one to loan for the day. Diving in to the pool gave me a bit of a fright being used to heated pools in Australia - this was definitly not heated and it reminded me of the pool in Darwin - the water ice cold despite the hot temperatures during both the day and the night - a bit of a mystery but never mind that.

I had a very interesting conversation with the girls who both came from Potzsam near Berlin in the old East Germany. They told me that even thought they had lived in a united Germany almost all of their lives, they were, due their upbringing, diffrest from young people from the west. Otherwise they seemed to think that the nification of Germany had been successful and gave everyone a better chance for a good life.

When I returned to the albergue I had a wonderful Regina who came freom Brasil amd work at the albergue fro a few weeks, gave me a wonderful massage, which was what the old body needed. Did I enjoy it - you bet!

In the morning we all shared breakfast before setting off on the days walk and I caught up for probably the last time with this group of lovely people, who have been part of my Camino for the last 3-4 days. Once again saying goodbye is never easy but we wished each other a Bien Camino and off they went.

What a fabulous way of finishing this third week of my Camino. I just sent a sms message to Ally and wished her a wonderful birthday - it gives a real good feeling to think of everyone back home - I am a very blessed man with such a wonderful family and so many good friends - I think this is a very important reason why I am able to have such a great Camino. Thanks guys and seeing Astorga tomorrow as the start of the week 4.

Week 3 Najera through to Burgos and beoynd

It was with some sort of heavy heart that I this morning decided to catch the bus for my next leg of the journey, simply realising that I am not in any condition to walk the distance required. I deciphered the bus time table and caught the bus to Burgos at 11.30am on this Sunday morning.I purchased a ticket to Santo Domingo De Calzada (what an impressive name) for just under $2 and arrived within 15 minutes - imagine that´s a 4to 5 hours walk. But of course where was the stillness, the feeling of freedom - and time to let the thoughts or feelings or whatever slowly come to the surface as you move through the landscape?

However the driving can´t be helped at the moment so I had better learn to put up with it and not feel guilty in any way that this Camino of mine, somehow is not authentic.

Santa Domingo also has its own historical legend, so fasten your seatbelt and listen closely - this is a beauty:

Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn here on the way to Santiago. The pretty inn keeper´s daughter had an eye for the handsome lad, but the devout young fellow thwarted her advances. Incensed by his refusal she hid a silver goblet in his backpack and reported for stealing it. (We are not that far from Egypt and Joseph and his brothers) The lad was convicted for stealing and condemned to hang. To make a long story at least a little bit shorter, the parents came back to the scene to their son and found him still alive in the gallows. Hurrying to the sheriff´s house they asked to get him cut down, but the sheriff was eating his chicken dinner. When he didn´t believe that the lad was alive, the chicken (the one on his plate) suddenly came to life and the rest is a up to you to imagine.

However more to the fact Santo Domenico was born in a village not far from here and devoted his life to making the conditions for the pilgrims more secure and more comfortable. He built roads and bridges and many of the albergues in the area. The particular one I am staying at tonight has accommodated pilgrims since 1540 and looking at the ceiling and the rafters, I can´t help wonder what stories and what people have been under that very roof, seeking a safe and restful place for their weary bones. Would it have been peasant farmers doing a once in a lifetime pilgrimage, or a wealthy nobleman or mazbe it would have been a monk from a monastry somewhere in Europe or maybe even one of the famous knights, defending the pilgrims during their often dangerous journey.

An Irish woman I met in Najara said something strage to me as we sad and spoke during a lazy afternoon. At least it took a while for the penny to drop - but maybe what she said had some truth in it. She wondered if she had been on the Camino before - or at least part of her. She went on the say that her genes has been transferred from one generation to the next almost un-altered and she might have certain genes in her make-up today in 2008, who have been on the Camino before. Did it take a little while for the penny to drop for you too or does one have to be Irish?

One can´t help get in touch with the history of this place and you might wonder how important the previous legend of the chicken is to this place until you discover that even at the back of the Cathedral is a chicken coop with real live foul. And I mean inside high up on an altar. I went to mass there last evening. I dont know if it was a special mass or just a normal Sunday evening mass, but when I arrived they were in the middle of the Litiny of the Saints and although I listen to the spenaish response for - pray for us - I never seem to get it, as everz sooften the cock would crow loundly, to everyones delight. Such is the realitx of Santa Dominga - God bless him.

Tomorrow morning I will have to brave the Estation again and try to work out the time table. I´ll try to reach Belorado approx,. 25 km. walk away. (You see I still measure distances in kilometers walked - not following the busy N-120).

I am now moving from La Rioja to the Province of Castilla Y Leon, the largest province in Spain and in particular to the Provinca de Burgos. I will spend the next week or even more in this province and hope to be able to experience the Meseta - the plain situated at an altitude of almost 900 m or 2700 feet, covering a large part of this area. It is flat, covered with maily wheat fields as far as the eye can reach, with nothing to distract you or your thoughts - no trees - no undulation in the landscape - no shade - just flat reaching for the horizon 360 degrees around. I really dont want to miss this and will do enything in my power to at least do a little walking.

Arriving at Belorado this morning I vertually ran into Ivan - the nice guy from Slovakia. What a great surprise and what a great smile to say hello. Who knows, I might be able to catch up with him in Burgos? I wonder what he has been doing, while I have been off the road during last week. Maybe I will find out later?

On arriving, I ran straight into a market -probably the weekly market here in Belorado. Apart from clothes, they didn't have much interesting stuff. I was particularly interested in food stuff - maybe some live octupus - tripe hanging from meat hooks or other spanish delicacies. However they did have salted hake and a great variety of delicious olives, of which I bought a few.

The aubergue which I am staying at is particular beautiful - Cuatro Cantones is the name - even with a pool in the back. A pity the weather has been overcast the last couple of days and rather chilly - or yes - it at least feels a bit chilly and I dont have a jumber to wear. Such is life! The first person I ran in to was Bradley, a chef from Perth, normally working the oil rigs in the Indian Ocean. He had sustained a very nasty injury to his left foot, leaving him with a very bad infection.(what is it about those Australians?) Can you find me in the chair?

I will spend the afternoon lazily wondering around the village and see what it has to offer. The church of Santa Maria should have a particularly beautiful altar piece, so I will go and have a look. Ferdinand from Brazil is running this place and is a wonderful and charming man. He is an architect who has walked the Camino three times and now is voluntering his service here for 12 months -gratis I might add. I tell you this Camnio has the power of changing people in pretty drastic and lasting ways.

What I did end up doing was have a swim in the pool. The sun appeared and gave new life to my old bones. Writing this at 7.45 pm it seems (I might be dreaming) that my knees have improved a little, so we have to see what tomorrow brings. For dinner I cooked a spiced spaghetti which was quite nice. I have decided for sure that I will be going to Burgos tomorrow and find a private hostel for a couple of days, with my own bed, my own bathroom and my own space. Just a little self preservation and return to normal human conditions, void of the various noises 30 people sleeeping together make in the dark of night. (please don't imagine)

Caught the bus from Balorado around 10.30 (only 15 min late which is not bad at all) and had an enjoyable ride to Burgos. The walk from Balorado would have been quite a tough one as the Camino trail crosses a few ¨mountains¨ I guess similar to Mt Dandenong, which I am sure you will agree, can be quite a challenge for the ordinary Sunday walker. At Villafranca Montes de Oca, the path climbes through vegetation of oak and pine and was in previous days, one of the most dangerous spots for the perigrinos, as they often were ambushed by less desirable people. However, today, these hills provide a welcome cover from the sun and some stunning views.

Approaching Burgos, I was happy to sit in a comfortable bus, as the walkers had a hard and labourous journey through a large industrial part of the city, something none have experienced for quite a few weeks. The noise and the polution strikes one when one has been removed from that kind of industrial environment for quite a time.

An added pressure for the Camino in this industrial part of Spain, is that the developments have gone ahead, with very little consideration to these old paths, trodden by so many people during the centuries. and provided the economic foundation for many of these local small communities. Hence, artificial and one might say, commercial paths have been constructed, which in mnay cases follows the N-120 highway with the never ending roar of huge trucks which definitely is the preferred mode of transport in this country not the best environment for reflective thinking.

But, let me introduce you to Burgos, which is no doubt an architectural treasure, with monuments and buildings so very beautiful. After settling in to the Jacobeo Hotel in the centre of the city, enjoying my own room for what seems a very long time, and an hour long hot, hot shower (what decadence) I ventured as my first stop to Burgos Cathedral, which towers over the city. This cathedral, De Santa Maria, is the second largest of Spain´s many cathederals and a Gothic masterpiece, although many famous architects during the centuries have added their particilar skills and vision.

It was commenced around year 1000, by Count Rodrigo Dias - a guy I need to introduce to you in a little more detail, as he is the legendary son of Burgos. He was born in 1040 and without making this story into some kind of thesis, he became a military leader for King Ferdinand I. He was a very feared military leader and was given a name from the muslims - El Cid. (I know when you read this name, you´ll expect John Wayne to appear from right of the screen, especially when you hear the next part of the story) El Cid had a famous horse Babienca, just as heroes are supposed to have. El Cid and his wife are both burried in the cathedral.

Anyway I spent a couple of hours wondering thought the cathedral and was amazed by the beauty and treasures found here. It holds 22 different chapels, one more elaborate and stunning than the next, with intricate wood carvings, magnificant paintings which takes your breath away. The feeling of history and the important role of the church throughout the formation of this country is something one almost can taste and feel, where ever one walks. (Sorry you have to turn your head to see the spires)




Burgos also seems to be a place where people who have travelled on and off for the first couple of weeks of the Camino, catch up, as one could see many groups having a good time, eating and drinking and enjoying each others company. As ususal, I had to find my own way and caught up with Bradley´s group and had a fun evening with them.
Just to remind everyone, that this is part of my Enrichment Leave, the guy in blue is a school principal from Belgium and the girl in yellow a secondary teacher from Idaho. Did we speak of educational matters - you bet!

Today I will be going to the bus company and inquire into the possibilities to experience the Meseta - where I can be taken to and picked up from again. So many of the peregrines choose to take the bus from here to Leon, as they think they will find the Mesada boring or maybe too challenging. However, I have really looked forward to experience the uniqueness of this landscape and I will do anything in my power just to do that.

However Brad and I had some hours to ill before the bus left, so Brad went to the internet cafe and I hung around, playing tourist, without moving too much around. I placed myself in a strategic spot and watched the world go by in the form of newly arriving tourist and perigrinos. Early in the afternoon I spotted a long row of what we in Australia use as wedding marques and I could hear this fabulous South American music playing. I went closer and it turned out to be an exhibition of Ceramica - an annual exhibition of work from artists and potters from all over Spain. It was just beautiful work and how I wished that I would be able to purchase a piece and bring it back to Australia. I told one of the artists that I just loved her work but couldn´t bring it with me. No problema! No problema! she said and took out some bubble wrap. However when I gestured that I only carried a backpack she understood and I had to leave empty handed. However once again I had to admit that having to stay for longer in Burgos had once again provided me with a pretty special opportunity to experience something special and beautiful.

However the bus departure time arrived and Brad and I decided to ask the bus driver if he would let us off in the middle of the Meseta, so we could experience this unique landscape. He agreed and promised us that the next bus would pick us up 3 hours later. We believed him and off we went. As he stopped in the middle of nowhere and we got off, all the other passengers clapped us - not sure why?

I have for most of my life been very interested in astronomy and as part of this study, I am very aware of the ´Great Circle´- the ability to see the horizon 360 degrees uninterrupted. Normally this can only be done at sea but that is what one almost could see from the Meseta - an uninterrupted view of the horizon all the way around. The difference of course being, that the sea of blue the sailors would watch was here replaced by an equally beautiful golden color of the wheat fields, changing from almost white to a deep golden color as the wind played with the straw. What an experience and no doubt a CAMINO MOMENT. The silence was complete apart from the birds and one definitely experienced an almost eerie feeling of being apart from everything.

Burgos is obviously a center for the mass production of wheat, oats and barley - however Brad and I both remarked, that no silos were to be found anywhere, so we were a bit at a loss as the how they dry, transport and keep the grain. We also agreed that this landscape would be very foreign for most people from Europe as they have never seen the expanse of wheat fields, which we see many places in Australia.

It was lucky that we could trust the bus driver as the next bus did stop and took us on board. We then continued our journey to a village named Castrojeriz - a sleepy hollow now , but evidently in the firing line when the fighting took place between the Christians and the Moors during the dark past. The village is formed as a semi-circle, wrapped around a hill with a fortress on top, and has approx. 1000 people living in it. The albergue we stayed in was San Estaban and is a Mother Therese House - very simple with approx. 20 beds, toilets and showers - that´s all! It has been quite interesting that in the last three alburgues they haven´t charged a set fee - just asked for a donation. Otherwise the going rate for a night is between 5 - 7 Euros - 7.50 to 10 Australian dollars - not bad!

Brad and I had perigrino dinner last night as he decided to walk again today. Another farewell! I had lovely fresh asparagus with garlic butter and a mixed salad, a very tasty beef stew and vanilla cream for desert. All up 10 Aussie dollars - a special deal for perigrinos.

At the albergue I met briefly a woman from the West Indies. Her name was Pia-Lise Frederiksen - one can not find a more Danish name than that. Without a little knowledge of the history of these wonderful islands, one wouldn´t know that they in fact were a Danish colony for many years, and as such many people even today have Danish names. ( If I remember right I think we did introduce cricket or maybe it was Danish rounders - can´t quite remember)

This afternoon I will be leaving Castrojeriz and continue to Fromista and once again move province - this time from the Province of Burgos to the Province of Palencia. As I will arrive rather late - a) I hope I will be able to find the albergue and b) that they still have a bed for me. A third option is that no bus will come this way as today is July 25th - the feastday of St. James - and not only the biggst and most important feastday in Santiago but in many parts of Spain - hence if it is a public holiday in the bus company - no bus and I´ll have to return to the alburgue and try again tomorrow. However I do hope the bus will arive as I have seen whatever I want to see in this village.

As I said the feast in Santiago today will be quite something - I am very happy I´m not in Satiago itself, as it will be an absolute circus. The swinging of the giant incense burner, Botafumeriro, which originally was used to fumigate the sweaty ( and possibly disease ridden) pilgrims, has today become a famous part of the daily Pilgrims Mass in that city. The ritual requires the help of half a dozen priests - Tiraboleiros - to control it, swinging in a huge arch across the congregation.

Supprise, supprise. I was going to leave this afternnon and yes the bus did run. However efter waiting fo the bus for almost 12 hours (there is anly so much you can do for 12 hours in a small village) I went down and waiting at the side of the road for the bus to arrive. It did arrive right on time, but unfortunately I was standing on the wrong side of the road and the bus sailed right past me, with a smiling bus driver atthe wheel. What did I feel and what did I mutter - no wrong -what did I call out loud and clear! Can´t tell you but I wasn´t a happy chappy. However I truddled back upthe hill and dicided to at least have a chance of venue and went to the other arbergue where a young italian couple calmed me down and told me the Camino was all about learning to let go and just be. As I explained it was the feastday of St. James and customary all albergues cook a special meal on this feastday for all the perigrinos. At my ´home´we were served garlic soup with fresh bread and salad and a wonderful almond cake for desert. A good meal with good friends - what more can one want. Once again it was a mixed groupof people around the dinner table - a professor in histology and his son from Valencia walking the Camino together as well as the yound italian couple - both attending the university in Turin. After dinner we all decided to sit in the garden and enjoy the stars -something we normally can´t do on the Camino as we all go to sleep at 10pm, while it is still light.

The next day I had to wait for the bus until 2.30 and this time I caught it all right and off I went to Fromista. One of the most important building in Fromista is surprise, surprise the church. Iglesia se San Martin, reputedly one of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain. (I am becomming quite an expert on the various building and architectual style throughout the centuries). As well as this church Fromosta has also been home to a number of pilgrim hospitals in the past - evidence of the importance part this city has played for the Camino.

However arriving at Fromista an other supprise was in waiting as I leaned that I just had arrived at the ned of the world - at least transport wise. No buses to take me further on my Camino and no buses anywhere the next day as it was Sunday and the world stands still on Sundays here in Spain. Not knowing what to do I decided that something was going to happen to help me out, so I tried just to relax and enjoy the day. Over the perigrino dinner that evening, I met an english truckdriver who was a littleunder the weather. However he told me that he would be able to give me a lift the next morning and we decided to meet at 7am. I have to be honest with you that I reallydidn´t think he would be ther - but I was wrong and off we went.

By the way the dinner was full of supprises as well. I ordered Ministoni - expecting a soup. Instead I got served a plate of vegies, at least 2 - 3 days old and stuck in the microwave for a couple of minutes. Not a good start. However the salmon served next made up for the rather bad start I ended up enjoying the meal. This time we were connecting up with Kevin, an ameracan university lecturer, working in Dubai - so at least we were able to talk a little about my Dubai expereinces, which I can assure you were quite different to his.

This sees the end of this week and I wonder what adventures I will expereince during this coming week.

Week 2 From Logroña through the La Rioja Rigion - all the way to Najera

After a wonderful nights sleep, my knees taped up (even though I shaved what I thought to be the right place, I could still feel the tape tucking in the leftovers) I left for today's walk at 6.oo sharp. I have left my raincoat right on top in my backpack just in case the rain will appear. I am dreading what the paths will be like when wet - somehow I fear the wost, as most of them are clay and will increasingly be so as we move through this region - famous for the red clay earth sticking to the boots when wet, with some unknown force.

I realised you haven´t heard from me for some time now. I haven´t been able to find an internet cafe until now when I have arrived in Najera. This is not so much an internet cafe - more a play centre for the youth in the city playing racing games. (Richard would just love this) However it is free of charge so who cares. I better tell you that this whole saga you are about to read about, I just lost completely somewhere in space between Spain and Australia - however used to set-backs who cares, so here we go again.

At this time I have only walked 31km in a week - not much in a Camino one might be tempted to conclude. However I have already found out the hard way, that it is not the kilometers one walks that makes the Camino, but the impressions, the converstaions, the reflections this journey helps one to be able to do. Somehow the Camino clears one's interior and one is able to reach a much deeper and clearer state of mind. So here is my account of Week 2 - second round around.

Staring out from Logroña Sunday morning, was a great feeling. It is hard to describe the feelings the mornings bring, the cool air, the silence and the smell of the still damp earth - being beween here and nowhere - not expected anywhere at any particular time and for that matter place. Something one has to get use to but I can tell you - it doesn´t take that long to take to it in.

Walking amongst vines everywhere growing in this rich red clay soil full of stones. It must be a ground which takes so much hard work to cultivate. The paths which I walk on are most likely work tracks used by the farmers, uneven and rough and also full of stones, making every step hard for both ankles and knees. And before long I am in trouble again, my knees hurt and half the trip I survive counting steps from 1 to 100, knowing that each step brings me a little closer to my next bed. Without my walking sticks to drive me forward I doubt I would have made it. However arriving in the village of Ventosa, 120 people, I was met at the front door of a brand new aubergue by Jytta, an Austrian ín´keeper or auberguerian (sounds a little like a purple vegie, doesn´t it)? and Brian from Manchester, voluntering for a couple of weeks, before continuing his, what seems, never ending pilgrimage. However they both welcomed me with open arms and could see from my general appearance, that here was a fellow who needed a little TLC.

Brian even attended to my shoes, placing a wild flower on them to give them good karma.

That afternoon I met up with a wonderful young man from Slovakia, part of the old Check Republic, called Ivan (not the cruel) He was working in Switzerland at one of the universities and was very interested in discussing a variety of issues, from politics to religion. Sue Cahill would have been very proud of me discussing the Australian Catholic Church and the Passionist Community, as the Catholic Church in this part of the world, barely has passed Vatican II. That´s not quit true, but it is no doubt more traditional in so many ways. However as I said he was a delight to converse with and I almost forgot the state of my knees.

When one stays over in the same albergue, one meets a new bunch of perigrinos every afternoon, arriving at the front door with sore feet or legs, red faces and exhausted looks. However it only takes a shower, a change of cloths and before long they appear almost like real humans, with a snack in one hand and a bottle of red in the other. What can one say?

This second evening I met up with a medico from Boston, August was his name and that´s no joke and his Thai wife, and Charlotte their 10 your old daughter. We had a most pleasant evening together and I was invited to share in their vegetarian dinner, which I must say was delightful.

The next morning I felt pretty miserable being stuck here. That was not what I had imagined the Camino to be like. Going through my cancer treatment I had never stopped believing that this Camino was possible and now I sat stuck here in a small village with a pair of bung knees, unable to continue my journey. That was not what a Camino was supposed to be like! Or was it? Was I sitting here to be forced to face that I no longer was in control - and maybe something called patience was a lesson which I had to learn. I don´t know, but maybe I will find the answer further on.

People I met were all concerned about my knees and tried to do this and that. Brian gave me Reike a couple of times a day (without much help - but it was his thoughtfulness and his willingness to give of himself that counted). However quite unexpectedly one of my CAMINO MOMENTS arrived early the next morning. A young woman from Switzerland asked if she could lay her land on my knees and do an Indian blessing. What can one say but yes and close one's eyes - however once again nothing magical happened. About five minutes later I all of a sudden heard the most wonderful singing from the entry foyer, a woman playing guitar and singing (I found out later) an Indian song in Sanskrit - one of the earliest languages ever recorded. It was a very beautiful moment and everyone still present at the aubergue at this late time (it was 8am) were all very moved. My response - if it hadn´t been for my knees I would never had experienced this wonderful moment as I would had been gone at my usual 6am. A CAMINO MOMENT out of the blue and one which will stay with me for ever.

The French and German connection came the next evening as I caught up with a group of primary teachers - from Paris, from Cologne and from Hamburg. If ever anyone tells me that French people don´t at least try to speak English, they are wrong. We had the funniest evening together and ended up sharing a perigrino meal together. I had my first taste of paella ( I didn´t appreciate the seafood much) a dish of chicken wings and some peaches in some lovely wine. What more can one ask for. (all for $ 15)

The next and my final day in this small community, Jytta had organised a visit to the doctor - the doctors only visit in the week. While waiting for our turn, listening to the many Spanish people waiting for their turn, she told me the political reality of this small community. In Australia we talk about drawing a line in the sand - in this community we might talk about a breadstick in the sand. You see, one can buy bread from either one of the elders in the village or buy your bread from the bread van, passing through the village once a day. Depending where you buy your bread, determines whether you are in or out in this small community of just 120 people. Quite amazing!!

Decided it was time to try out my legs or rather knees again, both Jytta and Brian saw me off and wished me well. The walk to Najera was the shortest possible for the day and was approx. 11 km. It is hard to describe the feeling of once again be in the open. Walking through fields and fields of vine as far as one can see is quite a beautiful sight. The paths the Camino followed at this point were mostly rough farm tracks, eroded by the wind and the rain and full of loose stones, challenging the foothold all of the time. And yes it didn´t take long before the knees started to ache again - despite me taking all the care in the world to put my foot to the ground as gracious and light as a ballet dancer (just figurative language of course). My walking sticks propelled my legs forward one step at the time, my brain desperately trying to control them, without much success I might add. To illustrate the point, approx 5 kilometers before Najera, the Camino crosses the main highway and the traffic is fast without much of a chance to find a clearing between cars, trucks and buses. I knew I was in trouble and stood there absolutely petrified that I wasn´t going to make it. You see my brain would send a message to my legs to start moving, but that didn´t mean a thing. I would take at least 3 to 4 tries to get them to move and at that, they would move very gingerly and unsteady. However you can see I made it, but is was a real frightening experience, to be that much out of control (here I go again with being in control).

Arriving in Najera I looked straight away for the private arbergue as I knew I would need to stay for a few days - yet again. I found the owner of the arbergue in the bar Bodegon La Juderia and he agreed to accommodate me for that period. The arbergue as very simple indeed, nothing more than a room with 10 bunk beds, a toilet and a shower and that´s all folks. However it did have a bed, which for me that was the most important feature.

Najera is another historical city, which one seems to find around every corner in this part of the world. In its former glory is was the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre during the 11th and 12th centuries. Undoubtedly the most important building in the city is the Monasterio Santa de la Real, dating back to approx. year 1000. There is a reason for the monastery being here and the legend goes as follows:

In the year 1044 Don Garcia went out hunting in these lands and saw a partridge. He sent his falcon in pursuit after it and the two birds entered a cave. The king followed them in and deep inside the cave he saw the image of the Virgin Mary. The king later decided to build a monastery in honour of the virgin (one can still see the cave inside the church). Many royals are buried here as are many noble families from the area. As with these churches, the art work is stunning, with altars glittering of gold and with the most complex and beautiful carvings. I went to mass here and although the whole service was in Spanish, it was very moving and easy to follow - maybe apart from the homily.

I have to tell you a little story about the tower of the monastery. On top one can see 12 storks - some adults and some young ones. Storks are very special birds for me, as in Denmark these birds are very rare and as children we read story books written about them as well as learned songs. I guess the fascination was that these birds would fly all the way the Africa and return year after year to the same nest and people actually waited for them to arrive year after year - and it was always front page news when it happened. However general urban development destroyed much of the wet land in Denmark and I believe there are only two pairs still nesting in that country. So here I walked around and all of a sudden hear the unmistakably sound the stork makes when feeding its young. Looking up I saw these majestic birds high above me - it was quite wonderful and brought back a lot of happy memories.

Despite my limited movement, my days in Najara were real happy. I started in the morning visiting a special perigrino bistro near the river, where I would order my coffee (and they do know how to make a good cup of coffee in Spain) and a baccodillo with cheese and ham and then enjoy the early morning sun and watch people go about their business. Later in the morning I would find a bench on Plaza Españia and once again just watch life go by - the children playing - the old people meeting and having a cigar - just wonderful, when you have time just to sit an enjoy it.

The second day there I was having a cold beer at lunch time, when I spotted a young couple organising their backpacks and having their lunch. I walked over and introduced myself and that was the start of a wonderful afternoon. You couldn´t have meet a nicer and more interesting couple. Ben came was Berlin and Maurice from the south of France and they were both actors, dancers as well as singers - working for a theatre company in Berlin. I told them about Laraine and her love for dancing and singing and everything crazy and how she would have loved to be part of our conversation.

I am not sure why conversations are such an important part of the Camino and why people seem so unafraid to open up and talk about their life stories- sometimes very personal and emotional painful stories. I wonder if we all, as part of the Camino, have been forced to look deeper within our self and our life´s stories and loose our normal inhibition to share these deep personal stories with people we live and work with in our everyday life. Maybe having these chance meetings, lasting only for a few hours, provides somehow the right framework for these conversations to take place. I don´t know - but the wonderful things are that they happen and they are so very special every time.