Week 1 From Pamplona

As I was arriving in Pamplona I ran smack into the opening of San Fermin - we call and know it in Australia as the Running of the Bull. Do these Spaniards know how to have a festa? - once again the city was full of people - this time dressed in white and red (I received a red scarf as well when I arrived) and thousands upon thousands filled the streets. I joined the fun at a park which I passed on my way and watched a big screen transmission of the opening. As the Mayor (or maybe even a member of the Royal family) opened the festa, everyone raised their red scarves in the air and OLE was heard from everyone. What a start to my camino!






These girls were almost running to make sure they didn´t miss out the official opening of the Fiesta. Everyone looked really lovely in their outfits, and especially the children were lovely.









Before I left home I had Google Mapped where I was going to walk and el presto it worked to a tee. I found Avenue Hierro and I saw my very first Shell pointing the way to Santiago. What a feeling as I can tell you, up to that point, I had a few butterflies in my stomach, as to whether I ever was going to find my way. I followed the shells and finally arrived at my very first Albergue in Cizur Menor, west of Pamplona. I was welcomed by Fiorro, who stamped my passport for the very first time and showed me my bed for the night. I went in to kitchen and was met by a number of fellow Pilgrims, speaking in all sort of languages ( sounds a little like Petecost) - however someone gave me a plate of spaghetti and said welcome in what I think was Italien. I spent the afternoon with Jork from Germany, Maree from San Sebastian and Jesus from the southern part of Spain. Jork was a great help as he teaches spanish back home and he kept the conversation going all night translating from Spanish to English and back again. We had a terrific time.

The following morning everyone was up early and I was on the road - my very first day on the track for a whole day - at 6.15am. It was a wonderful morning, with the sun still hiding behind the mountains. This first days walk is not just an ordinary walk as we have to climb a pretty steep incline up to some windturbines and back down an even steeper hill with loose stones covering the entire track. Good for my ankles I guess. I kept a steady pace and was warned by Jork who passed me half way up the mountain to take it easy and to find my own pace. I finally got to Alto del Perdon and enjoyed a magnificent view back over Pamplona. The Nevarra Region of Spain is filled with golden corn fields where ever you look, rolling hills and patches of woodland. Very, very beautiful. Took a photo at the top of some statues of some struggling pilgrims. The right spot I must say.

Started the downhill part and was that difficult. My ankles went over too many times to count and my legs got very tired and weary. However I pressed on and I walked through the prettiest villages, spread along the path - all going back to the middle ages with bridges built by the Romans and one church more beautiful than the next.

Arrived at my next stopover at Puente La Reina at 12 noon (not bad for walking 20 km with 14 kg on my back (I can announce that my legs and feet are OK but my shoulders are killing me). Will go down and find some food and have a look around this old village.

Tomorrow morning the next track will take me to Estella, which is big enough to find on a map. So far a wonderful experience, but you have to wait for photos. Hasta Luego

24 hours later I am sitting in a refugio in Estella, which used the be a hospital for the perigrinos during hundred of years - something to reflect on as I am sharing my room with 14 other people from all over the world.

Once again I started this morning at 6,15am. The evening before we went to Mass or rather a Benediction in the church run by the order who also run the refugio. The church was build in 1100, with very bare interior but with an acoustic to die for. It was a celebration especially prepared for the pilgrims and a very moving part was when everyone were invited to wash the feet of a fellow pilgrim. The celebration was of course in Spanish but I was invited to read the Gospel in English.

Today's walk wasn´t as hilly as yesterdays, but still strenuous enough - on reflection maybe because it was my second walk in a row, something my legs are not use to as yet. Once again the country side was magnificent, today taking me past the first fields with vine as well as olives. This part of the trip also took me on some stretches of original Roman tracks as well as bridges - I can assure you not easy to walk on as one has to concentrate every second to avoid a busted angle. (I wonder how the roman soldiers did it?) However it is quite special once again to reflect on the people who have trodden these paths during the centuries - in peace, in war, making a little part of history for this region of the world.

The small Spanish villages which we pass on our journey are quite delightful - so charming with houses looked after so very well and streets so clean and tidy. When we arrive the shops are usually closed as it is mid-morning, so the streets are deserted - so one can really get a close look at the houses and the streets.

The people I meet are amazing, all with their own unique stories to tell as to why they are doing the Camino. Language difficulties are no hindrance for communicating and everyone are getting along, caring for each others blisters and bung knees as well as communal meals.

Today on the path I firstly met a couple from Norway - a mother and daughter - school secretary and teacher and we had a wonderful half hour or so when we joined the walking. We discussed multiple intelligences amongst other things, something she tried to introduce as part of her mathematics lessons. She had three children and she shared with me that her husband was looking after them, so she and her mum could make this camino together. Later on in the day I met two American young girls - one from Colorado and one from Minneapolis - once again we joined up for a little while and had some wonderful stories to share. These two girls became my saviours in the later part of today's journey as they caught up to me with approx. three kilometers to go and I was absolutely spent - with no more energy to find. Even the slightest hill became a mountain and the way down was even worse. Up they came and gave me the impetus to once again stride out and reach the refugio at approx. 12 noon. However as you can see from the photo, they too were tired after the days walk.

Following my shower and my washing duties and even a phone call to Laraine and the writing of this blog, I will wonder to town and explore what it has to offer. (The beer is very good in this country and so are the bread sticks) I am toying up with the idea to stey at Estella for a bit of a rest day tomorrow, but will have to find accommodation elsewhere, as you only can stay one night at a refugio. By the way most refugios charge 5 Euros for a night, which is approx. $ 7.50 - not bad.

My next two walks will be to Los Arcos 21.7 km and then on to Logrono 27.8 km then leaving the Region of Navarra before entering the famous vine region of Spain, La Rioja. Hasta Luego.

This morning I left Estella at the usual 6.15am, but a surprise was in waiting, as the Refugio served breakfast for everyone before leaving for the day - hot coffee and toasted bread with jam. So everyone left well and nourished for the days walk.

Last night I slept with a knee support as my right knee was a bit painful after yesterdays downhill stretches, which are much harder than any uphill stretches, especially as the path after are very rough under food and one as to pay attention to every step of the way - by the way that how one can overlook a sign post and walk to wrong way. However overall the signing has been great and one can expect a marker at most turns or on the footpaths as one walks through the villages.

Due to my knee and the time frame which I am travelling by, I decided to only do a half days walk today and reached the village of Villamayor de Monjardin already at 8.45am - some kind of short day. Today I was very careful to slow down my pace from approx 4-5 km an hour to about 3km - what´s the hurry and I am feeling much better for it. I guess something one has to learn.

A special moment arose at 6.45am as I passed the famous fountain, where one can drink red vine instead of the usual refreshing cold water. I did have a sip and yes it certainly was drinkable even at that early hour.
This village is located at 680 meters altitude and everywhere you look you are met with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. On the mountain top one can see an old castle and from a statue placed in the town square, one can read: Sancho Gardes, King of Pamplona, died there in 925 - a bit of history wherever one turns.

The church is from 12th century and called San Andres and quite beautiful.

The Albergue or refugio is a private hostel run by a Dutch Evangelical group and have 4 bedrooms with 6 beds in each - quite private compared with the previous nights accomodation. I am looking forward to this evening at the couple running the hostel are supplying what is called a pilgrim dinner - no doubt a fun evening with the other fellows perigrinos.

As most of my friends which I have meet over the previous 3 days continued the full 22km walk for the day, I said my goodbyes and Buen Camino to them all. It´s a funny feeling to say goodbye to people you have only known for such a short while, but the camaraderie developed in this short time is quite unique. Hence by tomorrow I will be walking along with a new group of peregrinos and new opportunities for friendships and sharing.

However let my take you tough a couple of what might be Camino moments (I guess they will start to arrive as I get able to open up to the now instead of worrying about all sorts of other things). Last evening at Villamayer del Monjardin I met a great group new fellow peregrinos from Spain, Ireland, USA, Austria, Italy, South Korea amongst many places (as you can gather we are a mixed bunch). There was a group of 4 Spanish doctors, three of them walking the Camino, whilst number four of the group drove a supply van, reaching the destination early in the afternoon, after which he proceeded to cook dinner for everyone. Despite no English at all I was invited to join the group and feasted with a wonderful cooked lamb dish with garlic, shallots, and many great vegetables all cooked together. Served with fresh bread and a red vine decanted in a Spanish bottle (you know the kind you hold up to your mouth) we all had a great time, speaking all sorts of languages. I of course had to try to drink to red and did very well until I had to stop and whoops red wine down my t-shirt. Do you think I could wash it off - no so now I have a permanent reminder of this fabulous evening. Later on we all sat quietly and listened to wonderful melodic guitar play from one of the volunteers working the Refugio, and I can hardy describe the wonderful peace filling everyone, as we listened to the music and looked over this wonderful countryside, from the top of the mountain. No-one wanted it to stop and we all went to bed far too late. By the way another volunteer was Birgitte from Denmark, so we had a long chat. She had been a volunteer for the past 3 months and will be going back to Denmark at the end of August. ( not too sure how one gets back to a normal life after having been in such beautiful and tranquil surrounding for that amount of time)

Up again this morning and once again on the road on 6.15am after the Refugio served a wonderful breakfast to start the day. I decided to walk a little shorter that the rest of the group and am sitting in Torres del Rio this afternoon, after I was absolutely spent of energy on arrival half an hour ago. However it is amazing what a hot shower will do and I had the place all to my self as I arrived at 12 noon already.

I experienced a couple of wonderful hours this morning as my walking is starting to become second nature. I think I have found my rhythm and as such able to do a little reflection as I walk. Today's trip was a little different, with wide open gravel paths, meandering like a serpent up through the landscape, so one could see where one would be in 30 minutes time. The path was approx. 3 meters wide and fairly free of loose stones and rocks, giving me the opportunity to do other things besides thinking where I am putting my feet. Hence I had a wonderful reflection on how special last evening had been and how the Camino seemed to free the mind and spirit to appreciate these very special moments. (I do think they are Camino moments - but they might even get better)

I have discovered that my walking limit at the moment is around 20 km at day, doing it fairly easy up at approx. 9.30 when the heat from the sun starts to beat down from a blue sky with very little opportunities for shade along the way, sapping your energy slowly but surely over the next few hours. Today I met (another) 62 year old (young) man who started with me this morning and still had 15 km to go when I called it a day. He started his walk in nothern part of Germany so no wonder he is fit after walking approx, 1600 km.

Last evening I went with a few friends to the local pub for a peregrino dinner. However before meal time, we had a few drinks in the bar and watch a bull fight from Pamplona. The San Ferin festival is something else to experience, especially in the Naverra Region, where everyone form the region seem to travel to Pamplona at some stage during the festival. The TV trasmission of the spectacle was fantastic with close up of the matadors, taunt with nerves and never loosing eye contact with the bull. Whether one agrees or disagrees with bull fighting, it is no doubt something in the Spanish psyche and part of who they are.

We continued to have our meal. I had a mixed salad, a chicken in garlic butter and french fries, a chocolate ice cream and a bottle of red - what more can one wish for? The group I was with came from Ireland, Austria and Hungary and we all had a great evening together. Towards the end of the evening I was sitting only with the couple from Hungary and one of those Camino moments happened, as he all of a sudden told me, that they had lost a young baby last year. He told me that he never had told anyone about this and didn't´t quite know why I was the one. I of course shared my loss of Simone and we had a very healing and special time together. Why this happens on the Camino I don´t know, but I do know that the sharing between seemingly strange people, who never have met before this Camino, is quite extraordinary and no doubt part of the Camino experience. When I told the group last evening that I normally is very shy and don´t initiate conversation very easily, they all laugh, as I haven´t stopped to speak with people since I arrived here. Is that another Camino experience - I don´t know?

This morning I continued my journey and Decide to walk all the way to Logroña - a trip of approx. 20 km. I started at 5.45 this morning as the heat yesterday almost killed me. It is hard to describe the early morning - fresh and cool, even the smells seems to be different as the dew starts to evaporate. The sky behind me turns red within the first hour of my daily walk and I always stop, turn around and just wonder of the beauty around me. Unfortunately my little camera has not been able to catch the colour of the sky - however it is something I will never forget. Judging from the map of today's walk, I thought it would be rather flat - however the paths were narrow and rough again and one hill after the other appeared. However it is the downhill paths who kills me and my knees are were troublesome and painful this afternoon as I write this. I am not too sure what I can do about it, but for a start I have decided to stay here at Logroña tomorrow for a rest. I just have to find some other accommodation as one can only stay one night at the refugios.

I was wrong yet again as the kind people in the refugio took pity on my and allowed me to stay one more day. However it is up in the morning and leave by 8 and return as other travellers at 1.30pm.

Last evening I went out with my old friend´´ and had yet another peregrino dinner. We were joint by a Irish fellow who were so away with the birds, that he drove the Spanish waiter up the wall (and back down again). I have never quite seen anyone like him and we had a real belly laugh. However the waiter must have appreciated us after all as he gave us some kind of yellow liqueur on the house. I volunteered to drink two as Julie didn´t want hers. However it was farewell to these lovely people and we wished each other a great Camino.

However as I write this I just found the blog covering this week, which I accidentally had saved as a draft last evening and as such couldn´t find it earlier this afternoon.. You can imagine how sick I felt. So the following has to be read on that background.

I have heard that women after giving birth often has the 7 day blues. I guess that what I had today. Who knows that might even be a Camini moment!!!

This morning I decided to go to the post office and forward a couple of kilos, just to make my backpack a little lighter for my knees and back. I walked there with my aching knees and eventially found it. I arrived 8am and founf out that it didn´t open until 9.30 (of course I had forgotten it was Saturday) It was a faily cold morning so I got a little cold and uncomfortable as I sad on a bench and waited. When it eventually open, I looked closely as all the employees and picked the one who looked like speaking english. (I was right - how do one do these things)?
He informed me that the postoffive in Santiago only would keep my things for 14 days and not as it is written in the perigrino bible for 2 months. Would I like toforward to a number fo cities which I would pass through - pick it up and send it again? No I didn´t think so. What about sending it to Melbourne - cost $43. I didn´t think so. Hence my backpack is the ame weight as before.

Walked back to the hospital advertised in the peregrino bible also, where they are experts in Camino injuries. Wrong again - it is now a hospital for the mentally ill and my knees did fit that bill. Off yet again and founf another hospital where I showed them by helthcard and got the number 25. Very impressed only waited 35 minutes before seeing a spanish doctor who tould me in fluent spanish that my knees wre inflamed and I need to ise them 10 min every hour, use Voltaren cream and take some pills he gave me. He also recommended to tape the legs up under the knee but had very good bedmanners as he didn´t put it on with all my leg-hair intact. (they would have done that in Melbourne, no questions asked)

So it was time to get to the refugio and stand in the line to be allocated a bed for the night. I met a danish couple and had a bit of a chat to them while waiting. Guess what? they were both teachers from Aahus.

And then the rain came and I baptized my new rain jacket, wondering dorn and get myself a cup of coffee and a sandwich. However my general mood at this time was not all that uplifting as my day hadn´t been that great. I didn´t know any of the people who had arrived, so there you see - it was a day where I had the seven day blues. (however finding this blog again I feel a lot better and will look forward to my journey tomorrow -the start of my second week.