Week 3 Najera through to Burgos and beoynd

It was with some sort of heavy heart that I this morning decided to catch the bus for my next leg of the journey, simply realising that I am not in any condition to walk the distance required. I deciphered the bus time table and caught the bus to Burgos at 11.30am on this Sunday morning.I purchased a ticket to Santo Domingo De Calzada (what an impressive name) for just under $2 and arrived within 15 minutes - imagine that´s a 4to 5 hours walk. But of course where was the stillness, the feeling of freedom - and time to let the thoughts or feelings or whatever slowly come to the surface as you move through the landscape?

However the driving can´t be helped at the moment so I had better learn to put up with it and not feel guilty in any way that this Camino of mine, somehow is not authentic.

Santa Domingo also has its own historical legend, so fasten your seatbelt and listen closely - this is a beauty:

Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn here on the way to Santiago. The pretty inn keeper´s daughter had an eye for the handsome lad, but the devout young fellow thwarted her advances. Incensed by his refusal she hid a silver goblet in his backpack and reported for stealing it. (We are not that far from Egypt and Joseph and his brothers) The lad was convicted for stealing and condemned to hang. To make a long story at least a little bit shorter, the parents came back to the scene to their son and found him still alive in the gallows. Hurrying to the sheriff´s house they asked to get him cut down, but the sheriff was eating his chicken dinner. When he didn´t believe that the lad was alive, the chicken (the one on his plate) suddenly came to life and the rest is a up to you to imagine.

However more to the fact Santo Domenico was born in a village not far from here and devoted his life to making the conditions for the pilgrims more secure and more comfortable. He built roads and bridges and many of the albergues in the area. The particular one I am staying at tonight has accommodated pilgrims since 1540 and looking at the ceiling and the rafters, I can´t help wonder what stories and what people have been under that very roof, seeking a safe and restful place for their weary bones. Would it have been peasant farmers doing a once in a lifetime pilgrimage, or a wealthy nobleman or mazbe it would have been a monk from a monastry somewhere in Europe or maybe even one of the famous knights, defending the pilgrims during their often dangerous journey.

An Irish woman I met in Najara said something strage to me as we sad and spoke during a lazy afternoon. At least it took a while for the penny to drop - but maybe what she said had some truth in it. She wondered if she had been on the Camino before - or at least part of her. She went on the say that her genes has been transferred from one generation to the next almost un-altered and she might have certain genes in her make-up today in 2008, who have been on the Camino before. Did it take a little while for the penny to drop for you too or does one have to be Irish?

One can´t help get in touch with the history of this place and you might wonder how important the previous legend of the chicken is to this place until you discover that even at the back of the Cathedral is a chicken coop with real live foul. And I mean inside high up on an altar. I went to mass there last evening. I dont know if it was a special mass or just a normal Sunday evening mass, but when I arrived they were in the middle of the Litiny of the Saints and although I listen to the spenaish response for - pray for us - I never seem to get it, as everz sooften the cock would crow loundly, to everyones delight. Such is the realitx of Santa Dominga - God bless him.

Tomorrow morning I will have to brave the Estation again and try to work out the time table. I´ll try to reach Belorado approx,. 25 km. walk away. (You see I still measure distances in kilometers walked - not following the busy N-120).

I am now moving from La Rioja to the Province of Castilla Y Leon, the largest province in Spain and in particular to the Provinca de Burgos. I will spend the next week or even more in this province and hope to be able to experience the Meseta - the plain situated at an altitude of almost 900 m or 2700 feet, covering a large part of this area. It is flat, covered with maily wheat fields as far as the eye can reach, with nothing to distract you or your thoughts - no trees - no undulation in the landscape - no shade - just flat reaching for the horizon 360 degrees around. I really dont want to miss this and will do enything in my power to at least do a little walking.

Arriving at Belorado this morning I vertually ran into Ivan - the nice guy from Slovakia. What a great surprise and what a great smile to say hello. Who knows, I might be able to catch up with him in Burgos? I wonder what he has been doing, while I have been off the road during last week. Maybe I will find out later?

On arriving, I ran straight into a market -probably the weekly market here in Belorado. Apart from clothes, they didn't have much interesting stuff. I was particularly interested in food stuff - maybe some live octupus - tripe hanging from meat hooks or other spanish delicacies. However they did have salted hake and a great variety of delicious olives, of which I bought a few.

The aubergue which I am staying at is particular beautiful - Cuatro Cantones is the name - even with a pool in the back. A pity the weather has been overcast the last couple of days and rather chilly - or yes - it at least feels a bit chilly and I dont have a jumber to wear. Such is life! The first person I ran in to was Bradley, a chef from Perth, normally working the oil rigs in the Indian Ocean. He had sustained a very nasty injury to his left foot, leaving him with a very bad infection.(what is it about those Australians?) Can you find me in the chair?

I will spend the afternoon lazily wondering around the village and see what it has to offer. The church of Santa Maria should have a particularly beautiful altar piece, so I will go and have a look. Ferdinand from Brazil is running this place and is a wonderful and charming man. He is an architect who has walked the Camino three times and now is voluntering his service here for 12 months -gratis I might add. I tell you this Camnio has the power of changing people in pretty drastic and lasting ways.

What I did end up doing was have a swim in the pool. The sun appeared and gave new life to my old bones. Writing this at 7.45 pm it seems (I might be dreaming) that my knees have improved a little, so we have to see what tomorrow brings. For dinner I cooked a spiced spaghetti which was quite nice. I have decided for sure that I will be going to Burgos tomorrow and find a private hostel for a couple of days, with my own bed, my own bathroom and my own space. Just a little self preservation and return to normal human conditions, void of the various noises 30 people sleeeping together make in the dark of night. (please don't imagine)

Caught the bus from Balorado around 10.30 (only 15 min late which is not bad at all) and had an enjoyable ride to Burgos. The walk from Balorado would have been quite a tough one as the Camino trail crosses a few ¨mountains¨ I guess similar to Mt Dandenong, which I am sure you will agree, can be quite a challenge for the ordinary Sunday walker. At Villafranca Montes de Oca, the path climbes through vegetation of oak and pine and was in previous days, one of the most dangerous spots for the perigrinos, as they often were ambushed by less desirable people. However, today, these hills provide a welcome cover from the sun and some stunning views.

Approaching Burgos, I was happy to sit in a comfortable bus, as the walkers had a hard and labourous journey through a large industrial part of the city, something none have experienced for quite a few weeks. The noise and the polution strikes one when one has been removed from that kind of industrial environment for quite a time.

An added pressure for the Camino in this industrial part of Spain, is that the developments have gone ahead, with very little consideration to these old paths, trodden by so many people during the centuries. and provided the economic foundation for many of these local small communities. Hence, artificial and one might say, commercial paths have been constructed, which in mnay cases follows the N-120 highway with the never ending roar of huge trucks which definitely is the preferred mode of transport in this country not the best environment for reflective thinking.

But, let me introduce you to Burgos, which is no doubt an architectural treasure, with monuments and buildings so very beautiful. After settling in to the Jacobeo Hotel in the centre of the city, enjoying my own room for what seems a very long time, and an hour long hot, hot shower (what decadence) I ventured as my first stop to Burgos Cathedral, which towers over the city. This cathedral, De Santa Maria, is the second largest of Spain´s many cathederals and a Gothic masterpiece, although many famous architects during the centuries have added their particilar skills and vision.

It was commenced around year 1000, by Count Rodrigo Dias - a guy I need to introduce to you in a little more detail, as he is the legendary son of Burgos. He was born in 1040 and without making this story into some kind of thesis, he became a military leader for King Ferdinand I. He was a very feared military leader and was given a name from the muslims - El Cid. (I know when you read this name, you´ll expect John Wayne to appear from right of the screen, especially when you hear the next part of the story) El Cid had a famous horse Babienca, just as heroes are supposed to have. El Cid and his wife are both burried in the cathedral.

Anyway I spent a couple of hours wondering thought the cathedral and was amazed by the beauty and treasures found here. It holds 22 different chapels, one more elaborate and stunning than the next, with intricate wood carvings, magnificant paintings which takes your breath away. The feeling of history and the important role of the church throughout the formation of this country is something one almost can taste and feel, where ever one walks. (Sorry you have to turn your head to see the spires)




Burgos also seems to be a place where people who have travelled on and off for the first couple of weeks of the Camino, catch up, as one could see many groups having a good time, eating and drinking and enjoying each others company. As ususal, I had to find my own way and caught up with Bradley´s group and had a fun evening with them.
Just to remind everyone, that this is part of my Enrichment Leave, the guy in blue is a school principal from Belgium and the girl in yellow a secondary teacher from Idaho. Did we speak of educational matters - you bet!

Today I will be going to the bus company and inquire into the possibilities to experience the Meseta - where I can be taken to and picked up from again. So many of the peregrines choose to take the bus from here to Leon, as they think they will find the Mesada boring or maybe too challenging. However, I have really looked forward to experience the uniqueness of this landscape and I will do anything in my power just to do that.

However Brad and I had some hours to ill before the bus left, so Brad went to the internet cafe and I hung around, playing tourist, without moving too much around. I placed myself in a strategic spot and watched the world go by in the form of newly arriving tourist and perigrinos. Early in the afternoon I spotted a long row of what we in Australia use as wedding marques and I could hear this fabulous South American music playing. I went closer and it turned out to be an exhibition of Ceramica - an annual exhibition of work from artists and potters from all over Spain. It was just beautiful work and how I wished that I would be able to purchase a piece and bring it back to Australia. I told one of the artists that I just loved her work but couldn´t bring it with me. No problema! No problema! she said and took out some bubble wrap. However when I gestured that I only carried a backpack she understood and I had to leave empty handed. However once again I had to admit that having to stay for longer in Burgos had once again provided me with a pretty special opportunity to experience something special and beautiful.

However the bus departure time arrived and Brad and I decided to ask the bus driver if he would let us off in the middle of the Meseta, so we could experience this unique landscape. He agreed and promised us that the next bus would pick us up 3 hours later. We believed him and off we went. As he stopped in the middle of nowhere and we got off, all the other passengers clapped us - not sure why?

I have for most of my life been very interested in astronomy and as part of this study, I am very aware of the ´Great Circle´- the ability to see the horizon 360 degrees uninterrupted. Normally this can only be done at sea but that is what one almost could see from the Meseta - an uninterrupted view of the horizon all the way around. The difference of course being, that the sea of blue the sailors would watch was here replaced by an equally beautiful golden color of the wheat fields, changing from almost white to a deep golden color as the wind played with the straw. What an experience and no doubt a CAMINO MOMENT. The silence was complete apart from the birds and one definitely experienced an almost eerie feeling of being apart from everything.

Burgos is obviously a center for the mass production of wheat, oats and barley - however Brad and I both remarked, that no silos were to be found anywhere, so we were a bit at a loss as the how they dry, transport and keep the grain. We also agreed that this landscape would be very foreign for most people from Europe as they have never seen the expanse of wheat fields, which we see many places in Australia.

It was lucky that we could trust the bus driver as the next bus did stop and took us on board. We then continued our journey to a village named Castrojeriz - a sleepy hollow now , but evidently in the firing line when the fighting took place between the Christians and the Moors during the dark past. The village is formed as a semi-circle, wrapped around a hill with a fortress on top, and has approx. 1000 people living in it. The albergue we stayed in was San Estaban and is a Mother Therese House - very simple with approx. 20 beds, toilets and showers - that´s all! It has been quite interesting that in the last three alburgues they haven´t charged a set fee - just asked for a donation. Otherwise the going rate for a night is between 5 - 7 Euros - 7.50 to 10 Australian dollars - not bad!

Brad and I had perigrino dinner last night as he decided to walk again today. Another farewell! I had lovely fresh asparagus with garlic butter and a mixed salad, a very tasty beef stew and vanilla cream for desert. All up 10 Aussie dollars - a special deal for perigrinos.

At the albergue I met briefly a woman from the West Indies. Her name was Pia-Lise Frederiksen - one can not find a more Danish name than that. Without a little knowledge of the history of these wonderful islands, one wouldn´t know that they in fact were a Danish colony for many years, and as such many people even today have Danish names. ( If I remember right I think we did introduce cricket or maybe it was Danish rounders - can´t quite remember)

This afternoon I will be leaving Castrojeriz and continue to Fromista and once again move province - this time from the Province of Burgos to the Province of Palencia. As I will arrive rather late - a) I hope I will be able to find the albergue and b) that they still have a bed for me. A third option is that no bus will come this way as today is July 25th - the feastday of St. James - and not only the biggst and most important feastday in Santiago but in many parts of Spain - hence if it is a public holiday in the bus company - no bus and I´ll have to return to the alburgue and try again tomorrow. However I do hope the bus will arive as I have seen whatever I want to see in this village.

As I said the feast in Santiago today will be quite something - I am very happy I´m not in Satiago itself, as it will be an absolute circus. The swinging of the giant incense burner, Botafumeriro, which originally was used to fumigate the sweaty ( and possibly disease ridden) pilgrims, has today become a famous part of the daily Pilgrims Mass in that city. The ritual requires the help of half a dozen priests - Tiraboleiros - to control it, swinging in a huge arch across the congregation.

Supprise, supprise. I was going to leave this afternnon and yes the bus did run. However efter waiting fo the bus for almost 12 hours (there is anly so much you can do for 12 hours in a small village) I went down and waiting at the side of the road for the bus to arrive. It did arrive right on time, but unfortunately I was standing on the wrong side of the road and the bus sailed right past me, with a smiling bus driver atthe wheel. What did I feel and what did I mutter - no wrong -what did I call out loud and clear! Can´t tell you but I wasn´t a happy chappy. However I truddled back upthe hill and dicided to at least have a chance of venue and went to the other arbergue where a young italian couple calmed me down and told me the Camino was all about learning to let go and just be. As I explained it was the feastday of St. James and customary all albergues cook a special meal on this feastday for all the perigrinos. At my ´home´we were served garlic soup with fresh bread and salad and a wonderful almond cake for desert. A good meal with good friends - what more can one want. Once again it was a mixed groupof people around the dinner table - a professor in histology and his son from Valencia walking the Camino together as well as the yound italian couple - both attending the university in Turin. After dinner we all decided to sit in the garden and enjoy the stars -something we normally can´t do on the Camino as we all go to sleep at 10pm, while it is still light.

The next day I had to wait for the bus until 2.30 and this time I caught it all right and off I went to Fromista. One of the most important building in Fromista is surprise, surprise the church. Iglesia se San Martin, reputedly one of the finest Romanesque churches in Spain. (I am becomming quite an expert on the various building and architectual style throughout the centuries). As well as this church Fromosta has also been home to a number of pilgrim hospitals in the past - evidence of the importance part this city has played for the Camino.

However arriving at Fromista an other supprise was in waiting as I leaned that I just had arrived at the ned of the world - at least transport wise. No buses to take me further on my Camino and no buses anywhere the next day as it was Sunday and the world stands still on Sundays here in Spain. Not knowing what to do I decided that something was going to happen to help me out, so I tried just to relax and enjoy the day. Over the perigrino dinner that evening, I met an english truckdriver who was a littleunder the weather. However he told me that he would be able to give me a lift the next morning and we decided to meet at 7am. I have to be honest with you that I reallydidn´t think he would be ther - but I was wrong and off we went.

By the way the dinner was full of supprises as well. I ordered Ministoni - expecting a soup. Instead I got served a plate of vegies, at least 2 - 3 days old and stuck in the microwave for a couple of minutes. Not a good start. However the salmon served next made up for the rather bad start I ended up enjoying the meal. This time we were connecting up with Kevin, an ameracan university lecturer, working in Dubai - so at least we were able to talk a little about my Dubai expereinces, which I can assure you were quite different to his.

This sees the end of this week and I wonder what adventures I will expereince during this coming week.